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The Secret of Ocean Waves: Why Do Dangerous Whirlpools Form in Some Places?
Hidden on the sun-drenched beach lies a seemingly peaceful but extremely dangerous natural phenomenon - a whirlpool. These eddies are called rip currents, which are strong, narrow currents of water that rush directly from the shore into the ocean. The speed and strength of this current often catches unsuspecting swimmers off guard, making the necessary knowledge to avoid whirlpools all the more important.
Rip currents are the leading cause of rescue incidents at beaches, and these whirlpools are responsible for an estimated 71 drowning deaths each year in the United States.
The formation of rip currents is closely related to the movement of wind and waves. When large waves approach the shore, the water is pushed toward the beach, causing the water level to rise slightly. This excess water will flow back to open water by the path of least resistance, usually through depressions in the seafloor or gaps in sand bars, forming a rip current. When the front water flow approaches the wave-breaking area, the flow speed slows down, and the intensity and speed of the rip current reach their strongest level on the water surface.
Traditional thinking holds that rip currents pull swimmers underwater, but in fact rip currents are strongest on the surface of the water, where friction slows the flow below.
Due to the diversity of seafloor topography, the location of rip currents is difficult to predict. Some beaches have frequently recurring rip currents due to specific, prevalent shapes, while others may appear randomly due to changes in tides or waves. This means that even at familiar beaches, swimmers can be at great risk without adequate observation and knowledge.
Observe the characteristics of rip currents
In fact, the ability to identify rip currents is crucial for swimmers and other water-based activities. Correctly identifying the characteristics of a rip current may save a life. The most obvious characteristics of rip currents include:
- A noticeable break in the wave pattern: The water in a rip current will appear calmer than the surrounding breaking waves.
- Rivers of foam: There may be a lot of foam in a rip current as the current carries the foam into the open water.
- Difference in color: The color of a rip current can be noticeably different from the surrounding water, often appearing more turbid or opaque.
Learning to identify the signs of rip currents can help people understand the existence and location of rip currents before entering the water.
On some beaches in the United States, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration has even set up special signs to remind people of the dangers of rip currents and provide guidance and advice on escape. Especially for young swimmers, it is even more important to put this knowledge into practice so that they can save themselves in critical moments.
How to deal with rip currents
If you are unfortunate enough to be caught in a rip current, the first thing to do is to stay calm. The worst thing to do is to swim directly toward shore, as rip currents often flow faster than an average person can swim. Instead, you need to swim sideways to the current, usually in a direction parallel to the shoreline, so that you can quickly get out of the rip current.
Once you find the exit of the rip current, getting back to shore is not too difficult as the waves will push swimmers back to the beach again.
It is also wise to relax in the water, float or tread water, and wait for the rip current to dissipate naturally, wait for help, or swim back to shore when the current eases. Regardless, divers should eventually learn how to identify rip currents and how to deal with this dangerous natural phenomenon.
ConclusionRip currents in nature are not only a phenomenon of the ocean, but also a test that brings both fun and danger to the seaside. Whether we can clearly recognize these potential dangers while having a pleasant time on the beach depends on whether we are willing to spend more time learning and understanding their behavioral characteristics.
