Anti-pollution cosmetic-based one-step formation of w/o/w multiple emulsion containing D-biotin for skin protection: fabrication and in vitro and in vivo evaluation

Abstract

Continuous contact of air pollutants on human skin has produced early ageing and led to roughness, dryness, poor elasticity, increased wrinkling and irregular pigmentation of the skin. The present study was carried out to fabricate an anti-pollution cosmetic-based w/o/w multiple emulsion containing D-biotin, prepared by a one-step formation as protection for the skin against the effects of air pollutants and further used for in vitro and in vivo evaluation. A similar multiple emulsion without D-biotin was also prepared in the same way. Each of the tested multiple emulsions (CB2 and CF2) was applied to the cheeks of 15 human volunteers for a testing period of 90\xa0days. Both emulsions were assessed for skin melanin, erythema, hydration and elasticity values. The droplet sizes of CB2 and CF2 stored in the dark were 10.92\u2009±\u20090.23 and 15.4\u2009±\u20090.12\xa0μm, respectively. The size distributions of CB2 and CF2 ranged from 4.55\u2009±\u20090.1 to 26.056\u2009±\u20090.34\xa0μm and from 1.97.16\u2009±\u20091.2 to 45.13\u2009±\u20092.17\xa0μm, respectively. The rheological parameters showed non-Newtonian, pseudo-plastic and shear thinning behaviour, while pH remained within an acceptable range. No considerable physical changes were observed. The skin irritation testing indicated that CB2 and CF2 were safe after application and did not cause any skin irritation. The skin melanin, erythema, moisture and elasticity values of both the right and left cheeks of the volunteers were measured at baseline visits: 15, 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90\xa0days of time intervals. While CB2 showed insignificant effects, therefore, it was demonstrated that CF2 decreased skin erythema content and increased skin elasticity and hydration significantly but had an insignificant effect on skin melanin content with respect to time. Good sensory attributes were also achieved. Therefore, CF2 is a promising new approach for protection of the skin from the deleterious effects of air pollutants.