A. Balaguer

Development of a fully automated sequential injection solid-phase extraction procedure coupled to liquid chromatography to determine free 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid in human urine

2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid, commonly known as benzophenone-3 (BZ3) and benzophenone-4 (BZ4), respectively, are substances widely used as UV filters in cosmetic products in order to absorb UV radiation and protect human skin from direct exposure to the deleterious wavelengths of sunlight. As with other UV filters, there is evidence of their percutaneous absorption. This work describes an analytical method developed to determine trace levels of free BZ3 and BZ4 in human urine. The methodology is based on a solid-phase extraction (SPE) procedure for clean-up and pre-concentration, followed by the monitoring of the UV filters by liquid chromatography-ultraviolet spectrophotometry detection (LC-UV). In order to improve not only the sensitivity and selectivity, but also the precision of the method, the principle of sequential injection analysis was used to automate the SPE process and to transfer the eluates from the SPE to the LC system. The application of a six-channel valve as an interface for the switching arrangements successfully allowed the on-line connection of SPE sample processing with LC analysis. The SPE process for BZ3 and BZ4 was performed using octadecyl (C18) and diethylaminopropyl (DEA) modified silica microcolumns, respectively, in which the analytes were retained and eluted selectively. Due to the matrix effects, the determination was based on standard addition quantification and was fully validated. The relative standard deviations of the results were 13% and 6% for BZ3 and BZ4, respectively, whereas the limits of detection were 60 and 30 ng mL(-1), respectively. The method was satisfactorily applied to determine BZ3 and BZ4 in urine from volunteers that had applied a sunscreen cosmetic containing both UV filters.

Environmentally friendly LC for the simultaneous determination of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in skin‐whitening cosmetics

Ascorbic acid (AA), also known as vitamin C, is a very popular skin-whitening agent used in cosmetics. However, the use of AA (and also its sodium or magnesium salts) in cosmetic products is limited owing to its labile oxidative properties. In order to avoid its early degradation, different derivatives have been designed, such as ascorbyl phosphate (APH; as magnesium or sodium salts) and ascorbyl palmitate (AP), and more recently the ascorbyl glucoside (AG). Bearing in mind that all these chemicals in skin-whitening cosmetic products must be determined in order to control the efficacy of such products, this paper focuses on developing a wide-ranging LC analytical method able to determine the above-mentioned compounds simultaneously in cosmetic products. The chromatographic variables were studied and selected in order to achieve the total separation and subsequent determination of all the analytes involved. Thus, an octadecylsilica (C(18)) stationary phase and a mobile phase gradient of ethanol: 50 mM phosphate buffer at different pHs (containing 0.1 M NaCl) were used. Detection was carried out with a UV/visible spectrometry detector set at different wavelengths. The LOD ranged from 2 to 6 microg/mL depending on the analyte. The proposed method was validated by analysing a laboratory-made and six commercial skin-whitening cosmetic samples. The method allows any mixture of the four skin-whitening agents studied to be both separated at good resolution and determined without interferences from samples, and moreover it does not require the use of either highly toxic organic solvents or hazardous chemicals.

A rapid and reliable size-exclusion chromatographic method for determination of kojic dipalmitate in skin-whitening cosmetic products.

A size-exclusion chromatographic method has been developed to determine the relatively novel skin-whitening agent called kojic dipalmitate (KDP) in skin-whitening cosmetic products. Preliminary experiments were carried out in order to select the solvent for standard and sample solution, and also for mobile phase composition. A PLGel Mixed-D (polystyrene/divinylbenzene co-polymer) column and isocratic mobile phase of pure tetrahydrofuran (at 1.5 mL min(-1) flow rate) were used. Detection was carried out by means of an UV/vis spectrometry detector set at 248 nm. A study of interferences reveals that KDP can be determined without interferences coming from cosmetic matrices. Most other cosmetic ingredients usually employed in skin-whitening cosmetic products, such as other whitening agents and common UV filters, do not interfere. The accuracy and precision of the proposed method was tested by the analysis of six laboratory-made and five commercial skin-whitening cosmetic samples. The sensitivity and limit of detection (3 microg mL(-1)) obtained are suitable for the analysis of this type of samples. The chromatographic run takes less than 8 min to complete. All these features make the method easy to apply to quality control in the cosmetic industry.

A solid-phase extraction and size-exclusion liquid chromatographic method for polyethylene glycol 25 p-aminobenzoic acid determination in urine: Validation for urinary excretion studies of users of sunscreens

No previous publications about percutaneous absorption of polyethylene glycol 25 p-aminobenzoic acid (PEG-25 PABA) have been found in the literature and the expected levels to be found in human urine after sunscreens use are unknown. The method proposed here is suitable to determine PEG-25 PABA in the urine of sunscreens users in order to carry out studies on body accumulation/excretion. It is based on solid-phase extraction (SPE) with size-exclusion liquid chromatography determination. Solid-phase extraction allows the analyte to be retained and subsequently eluted for a clean-up, using a silica-based cartridge. The size-exclusion liquid chromatography of the eluted allows the rest of matrix interferences to be avoided. Fluorescence intensity was measured at lambda(em)=350 nm (lambda(exc)=300 nm). The sensitivity of the proposed method is in the order of 450+/-5 mLng(-1) and the detection limit (3S(y/x)/b) in the measured solutions is in the order of 13 ngmL(-1), that is 2.6 ngmL(-1) in urine samples. The method enables PEG-25 PABA to be determined in both, spiked and unspiked human urine samples. Results obtained for spiked human urine samples (11-100 ngmL(-1)) demonstrated the accuracy of the method. The mean relative standard deviation of the results was in the order of 3-10%. Three volunteers applied a sunscreen lotion containing a 8% PEG-25 PABA sunscreen cream and their urinary excretion was controlled from the moment of application until the excreted amounts were no longer detectable.