Akio Okayasu

Bottom shear stress in the surf zone

To investigate the bottom shear stress in the surf zone, detailed laboratory measurements were made of the free surface elevations and velocities for the case of regular waves spilling on a rough, impermeable 1:35 slope. The velocity profiles were measured at several vertical lines in the cross-shore direction to include the shoaling region seaward of breaking, the break point, the transition region, and the inner surf zone. Each vertical line included measuring points at a fraction of the grain height above the rough, fixed bottom. A logarithmic layer was found to exist in the bottom boundary layer for most of the phases over a wave period seaward of the break point and in the surf zone. A regression analysis was used at each phase to estimate the shear velocity and bottom roughness from the phase-averaged horizontal velocities in the lower portion of the bottom boundary layer. The bottom friction factor was estimated from a quadratic friction equation based on the measured horizontal velocity above the bottom boundary layer together with the estimated shear velocity. The quadratic friction equation with the fitted friction factor was shown to predict the temporal variation of the bottom shear stress within a factor of 2. The bottom roughness estimated from the grain size assuming rough turbulent flow was shown to agree qualitatively with the measured values. The cross-shore variation of the friction factor estimated from an empirical formula developed for nonbreaking waves was shown to agree within a factor of 2 of the measured values.

PROPAGATION AND INUNDATION CHARACTERISTICS OF THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI ON THE CENTRAL SANRIKU COAST

Propagation and inundation characteristics of the 2011 Tohoku tsunami on the central Sanriku coast are investigated through field surveys and numerical simulations using offshore wave recordings as incident wave conditions. The numerical model successfully reproduces the extent of flood areas as well as the distribution of tsunami heights along the intricate coastline except for run-up of extreme heights over steep slopes. The survey and computed results suggest significant variations of tsunami heights along the coastline. Their positive dependency on topographic slopes implies that the incoming tsunami propagates in standing wave mode to precipitous sites while in progressive wave mode accompanied by wave breaking over gentle slopes. Temporal-spatial analysis of wave properties in different bays reveals that the inner bay topography provides a clear contrast to inundation characteristics. The impacting waves have extreme heights due to the funnel effect and local wave resonances causing highly transient flooding in narrow V-shaped bays whereas tsunami surges over longer periods across innermost shores of U-shaped bays to produce large horizontal velocities during both run-up and backwash phases.

VERTICAL VARIATION OP UNDERTOW IN THE SURF ZONE

The Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX), is an international basic research programme concerned with full-scale measurements, analysis, modelling and simulation in test basins of 3-dimensional seas. The research is carried out in order to assess the significance of 3-dimensional sea states in engineering applications. The first phase of the programme full scale wave measurements in the North Atlantic Ocean was performed at a site and time that had a high probability of encountering severe sea states. The present publication shows examples of measured bi-modal directional sea spectra obtained with the WAVESCAN buoy and directional sea spectra measured with an airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR). Directional spectra of gravity waves are obtained with the SAR both in open waters and below an ice cover. Further work is needed in order to verify SAR-measurements with in-situ observations. In-situ measured directional spectra are also compared with hindcast spectra from the 3G-WAM model. Hindcast significant wave heights were found to be lower than the in-situ measurements.The littoral drift model developed at DHI and ISVA, see Deigaard et al. (1986b) has been extended to include the effects of the irregularity of the waves, of a coastal current and a wind acting on the surf zone. Further, a mathematical model to simulate the near-shore current pattern along a barred coast with rip channels has been developed. The influence on the littoral drift of the irregularity of waves, wind, coastal current, and rip channels is discussed. It is concluded that irregularity of waves and presence of rip channels must be considered while coastal current and wind action are of minor importance.At present, the Prodhoe Bay oil field in Alaska contributes a substantial amount of the domestic oil production of the United States. Oil is also expected to be present on the continental shelf of Alaska, and it is estimated that approximatedly 28 percent of the total U. S. reserve is located beneath the shallow ice covered seas of the Alaskan continental shelf. To expolre and to exploit these oil rich resources, engineers are confronted with hostile oceanographic conditions such as high tides, waves, strong currents and sea ice. The same area is also rich in fishery resources. Being one of the most productive fishing grounds in the nothern Pacific, the potential ecological impact due to an oil spill is of a major concern. This paper describes the methologies used for the development of a modeling system for the oil risk analysis. The system is designed with generality in mind so it can be used for other coastal areas. The development of three dimensional models used in the modeling system described here have been published in the earlier International Coastal Engineering Conferences (Liu and Leendertse, 1982, 1984, 1986) and a report published recently by RAND (Liu and Leendertse, 1987). In the oil-spill risk analysis, these three dimensional hydrodynamic models are coupled to a two-dimensional stochastic weather model and an oil weathering model.The two projects (LUBIATOWO 79 and LUBIATOWO 86) were aimed at study pore pressure behaviour in natural sand bed in the coastal zone of the Baltic sea under the action of storm waves. During both projects, the wave induced pore pressures at the various levels in the sea bed were measured. The collected data were used to verify the applicability of the various theoretical approaches. In the conclusion, the range of the application of the particular analytical method is given.The rapid recession of the shingle bank of Hurst Beach (up to 3.5m/yr) makes it an excellent natural laboratory for the study of the factors which influence the stability of shingle beaches. Studies have included: the significance of long period, high energy, swell waves the classification and quantification of overwash processes run-up and seepage characteristics the effect of settlement of the underlying strata and the implications for practices in shingle nourishment. The studies have revealed the distinctive character of shingle beaches as compared with the more fully researched sand beaches. More detailed research on shingle beaches is justified particularly in relation to (i) the run-up characteristics including its interaction with swash cusps and (ii) the influence of the subsidiary sand fraction on the beach characteristics.Environmental assessment, engineering studies and designs were completed for a new 26.5 m3/s seawater intake system in the Persian Gulf. The original intake facility consisted of a curved, 60m breakwater with one end attached to the shoreline, a settling basin immediately adjacent to the shoreline and dredged to a maximum depth of approximately 5m, and a pumphouse structure located on shore such that the seaward wall formed one side of the settling basin. The facility located on an island in the Gulf, which served multiple seawater uses, had experienced both structural and operational problems, the latter consisting principally of excessive ingestion of sediment and seaweed. These factors plus the requirement for additional demands for seawater beyond plant capacity caused the owner to initiate a study of alternative intake systems, produce a design for the most effective solution and construct the new intake system.A two-dimensional wave prediction model suitable for use on personal computers is described. The model requires the twodimensional time-dependent wind field as input. Output consists of wave height, wave period, and wave direction estimates at all grid points on a computational grid representing an enclosed or semi-closed basin. Model predictions compare favorably with observations from a wave research tower in Lake Erie. A formula is provided to estimate how long a model simulation would take on a personal computer given the surface area of the computational domain, the grid size, and the computer clock speed.Cullera Bay is a neritic ecosystem placed on the Spanish Mediterranean Littoral largely influenced by the Jucar River, that brings about lower salinities than surrounding waters, and broad variations of its values. An extensive research, with 9 samplings throughout the year, was carried out, measuring both physical and chemical parameters, and the planktonic communities. The trophic status of the ecosystem, the spatial and temporal variations of the nutrients and the planktonic communities were studied, evaluating the influence of the river loads and the littoral dynamics. Some essential basis to allow a suitable emplacement of waste waters disposals along the Valencian littoral are set up in order to minimize the gradual eutrophication of this coast.In the last two years a whole of studies was realized in order to determine precise solutions to the regeneration of Villajoyosas beach, in the Spanish mediterranean coast. Investigations were carried out to the surrounding coastal areas based in field investigations and laboratory analyses of the beaches materials.

VERTICAL VARIATIONS OF FLUID VELOCITIES AND SHEAR STRESS IN SURF ZONES

A special reflecting wall 12 m long and 2.1 m high was built off the beach at Reggio Calabria, and 30 wave gauges were assembled before the wall and were connected to an electronic station on land. It was possible to observe the reflection of wind waves generated by a very stable wind over a fetch of 10 Km. The experiment aimed to verify the general closed solution for the wave group mechanics (Boccotti, 1988, 1989), for the special case of the wave reflection.Significant features on Wadden Sea wave climate are evaluated in respect of the state of the art. Main emphasis was laid on an analysis of the governing boundary conditions of local wave climate in island sheltered Wadden Sea areas with extensions being sufficient for local wind wave growth. Explanatory for significant wave heights a reliable parametrization of local wave climate has been evaluated by using generally available data of water level and wind measurements.

VELOCITY FIELD UNDER PLUNGING WAVES

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.

MODELING OP ENERGY TRANSFER AND UNDERTOW IN THE SURF ZONE

Tanah Lot Temple is situated in Tabanan Regency - Bali, on the coast of the Indonesian Ocean. Due to continuous wave attack, wind force, and weathering of the rock bank where the Temple stands, abrasion has occured which is more and more threatening the existence of the Temple. Considering that Tanah Lot Temple is a sacred place for the Hindu Balinese people and a place of high cultural value, and also an important tourism, steps to save the Temple are imperative. The Central as well as the Regional Authorities, and also the Bali nese community are very much interested in the effort to keep the Temple intact. Measures have been undertaken to protect both the seaside and land-side banks of the Temple rock bank. This paper only discusses counter measures of the sea —side bank of the Temple.

Laboratory experiment and three-dimensional Large Eddy Simulation of wave overtopping on gentle slope seawalls

Wave overtopping on gentle slope seawalls for both smooth and stepped front faces was investigated in a laboratory wave flume. Overtopping rates were measured by a catchment basin placed behind the seawall. Overtopping velocity and water depth at the top of the seawall were simultaneously measured by using a Laser Doppler Velocimeter and a wave gage. It was found that the velocity of overtopping water has a sharp peak just after initiation of each overtopping event. The water depth on the seawall crown shows relatively gradual decrease. A numerical model of three-dimensional Large Eddy Simulation was developed for evaluating the instantaneous overtopping discharge and compared to the experimental results. The calculated root-mean-square value of water surface elevation at the toe of the seawall agreed very well with the measured value, but large discrepancies were found for individual wave deformation in some waves. The magnitude of the calculated velocity on the top of seawall was generally smaller than that of the measured velocity. The calculated volume of the overtopping water was between the volumes measured for the smooth seawall and the stepped seawall. Since the two-dimensional Large Eddy Simulation model far overestimated the overtopping volume, it was considered that appropriate representation of three-dimensional large eddies generated by wave breaking is important for wave overtopping evaluation.

Laboratory experiments on 3-D nearshore current and a model with momentum flux by breaking waves

A special reflecting wall 12 m long and 2.1 m high was built off the beach at Reggio Calabria, and 30 wave gauges were assembled before the wall and were connected to an electronic station on land. It was possible to observe the reflection of wind waves generated by a very stable wind over a fetch of 10 Km. The experiment aimed to verify the general closed solution for the wave group mechanics (Boccotti, 1988, 1989), for the special case of the wave reflection.Significant features on Wadden Sea wave climate are evaluated in respect of the state of the art. Main emphasis was laid on an analysis of the governing boundary conditions of local wave climate in island sheltered Wadden Sea areas with extensions being sufficient for local wind wave growth. Explanatory for significant wave heights a reliable parametrization of local wave climate has been evaluated by using generally available data of water level and wind measurements.

Computational wave dynamics for innovative design of coastal structures

For innovative designs of coastal structures, Numerical Wave Flumes (NWFs), which are solvers of Navier-Stokes equation for free-surface flows, are key tools. In this article, various methods and techniques for NWFs are overviewed. In the former half, key techniques of NWFs, namely the interface capturing (MAC, VOF, C-CUP) and significance of NWFs in comparison with the conventional wave models are described. In the latter part of this article, recent improvements of the particle method are shown as one of cores of NWFs. Methods for attenuating unphysical pressure fluctuation and improving accuracy, such as CMPS method for momentum conservation, Higher-order Source of Poisson Pressure Equation (PPE), Higher-order Laplacian, Error-Compensating Source in PPE, and Gradient Correction for ensuring Taylor-series consistency, are reviewed briefly. Finally, the latest new frontier of the accurate particle method, including Dynamic Stabilization for providing minimum-required artificial repulsive force to improve stability of computation, and Space Potential Particle for describing the exact free-surface boundary condition, is described.

A note on the horizontal momentum exchange in combined waves and current

The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably.