Alexander Filbry

Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy

We present here a new cosmetic formula system containing 3% ascorbic acid based on an optimized oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. This formulation demonstrated a good long-term stability of the active ingredient and also of the emulsion itself. It could be deduced from in vitro release studies that this O/W emulsion enabled a better release of the hydrophilic active agent than an alternative W/O emulsion. By measuring the ultraweak photon emission, which is a well-established parameter for the oxidative stress in the skin, the high in vivo antioxidant capacity of 3% ascorbic acid was demonstrated after 1 week of product application. This placebo-controlled study also proved that ascorbic acid in an O/W cream reduced oxidative stress in human skin significantly better than the derivative sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a more stable vitamin C replacement commonly used in cosmetic formulations. With increasing age, the number of papillae in the epidermal-dermal junction zone in human skin are reduced. This implies a possible consequence of reduced mechanical resistance of the skin and impaired supply of the epidermis with nutrients. In a 1-month placebo-controlled study on 25 human volunteers, a significant increase in the number of dermal papillae after application of the 3% ascorbic acid cream was demonstrated, using a confocal laser scanning microscope. Fine lines and wrinkles are a characteristic sign of aged and especially photo-aged skin. Application of 3% ascorbic acid in a 12-week placebo-controlled usage study indicated a significant reduction of facial wrinkles. Altogether, 3% ascorbic acid in a cosmetic O/W emulsion has been shown to be appropriately stable and to enable a good release of the active agent in vitro as a precondition for a high efficacy in vivo. Application in vivo resulted in a significant reduction of oxidative stress in the skin, an improvement of the epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in aged skin. These results were received within a relatively short period of time of product application.

Prevention of Follicular Penetration: Barrier-Enhancing Formulations against the Penetration of Pollen Allergens into Hair Follicles

The hair follicles could be a reservoir for topically applied substances. They are not only surrounded by a close network of blood capillaries, which makes them interesting for drug delivery, but they are also the host of dendritic cells, which are important for immunomodulation. Previously, pollen allergens were shown to penetrate into the hair follicles. The application of barrier-enhancing formulations might represent an effective strategy to prevent pollen protein penetration into the hair follicle. In the present study, porcine skin areas were pretreated with 4 barrier-enhancing emulsions. One skin area served as control and remained without pretreatment. Afterwards, fluorescein-isothiocyanate-labeled grass pollen proteins were applied to the porcine skin samples, and their penetration was investigated via fluorescent laser scanning microscopy. It was shown that the barrier-enhancing formulations were able to significantly reduce the penetration of exogenous proteins into the hair follicles, the extent of such reduction depending on the formulation.

Skin-lightening effects of a new face care product in patients with melasma.

Background  Melasma is a common pigmentation disorder having considerable effect on patients’ emotional and psychological well‐being.

Efficacy of a New Tonic Containing Urea, Lactate, Polidocanol, and Glycyrrhiza inflata Root Extract in the Treatment of a Dry, Itchy, and Subclinically Inflamed Scalp

Background/Aims: Dry, itchy and inflamed scalp conditions are common and often associated with diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. To improve these symptoms, we investigated the efficacy of a new tonic containing the active ingredients urea, lactate, polidocanol, and Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, containing licochalcone A. Study Design/Methods: 30 subjects with dry and itchy scalp conditions underwent a randomized half-head study for 4 weeks, applying the leave-on tonic three times a week on one side of the scalp. Tonic effects on skin hydration, itching, lipids, microinflammation, and substantivity of tonic compounds were determined using corneometry, middle-infrared spectroscopy, direct analysis in real-time mass spectrometry, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Volunteers performed a self-assessment; changes in scalp condition were documented by in vivo microscopy. Results: After tonic treatment, scalp moisture was significantly increased, whereas scalp itching and tautness were significantly reduced. Results also demonstrated a high substantivity of urea and lactate on the scalp, an increase in triglyceride, and a decrease in free fatty acid levels. The amount of total lipids was unchanged. Analyses of scalp wash-ups verified a significant reduction in important pro-inflammatory markers. Conclusion: Due to the actives urea, lactate, polidocanol, and the anti-inflammatory licochalcone A, the new scalp tonic exhibited excellent performance in alleviating scalp dryness, itching, microinflammation, and in normalizing disturbances of scalp lipids.

Efficacy and Tolerability of Steroid-Free, Over-the-Counter Treatment Formulations in Infants and Children With Atopic Dermatitis

Background Two steroid-free, over-the-counter skin protectant products have been developed for the care and treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD)—Eucerin Eczema Relief Body Crème (Body Cream) for daily skin moisturization and Eucerin Eczema Relief Instant Therapy cream (Instant Therapy) for treatment of AD flare-ups. We tested the efficacy and tolerability of these formulations in infants and children with AD. Methods Study 1: Body Cream was applied twice daily to the lower legs of 64 children with a history of AD (aged 3 months to 12 years) for 14 days. Study 2: Instant Therapy was applied to active lesions and surrounding skin of 29 children (aged 3 months to 12 years) with active atopic lesions. Assessments were performed at baseline and Days 7 and 14. Symptoms were assessed using the Atopic Dermatitis Severity Index in Study 2. Results Body Cream significantly improved skin hydration and reduced itching, burning/stinging, erythema, and tactile roughness. Instant Therapy significantly improved skin hydration and AD symptoms, notably pruritus, erythema, and lichenification. Both products were safe and well tolerated. Discussion Body Cream and Instant Therapy were effective and well tolerated in the treatment of AD in children. These products provide steroid-free, nonprescription therapy for the maintenance and treatment of acute eczema and were proven effective and safe in infants as young as 3 months.

Prevention of Cutaneous Penetration and CD1c+ Uptake of Pollen Allergens by a Barrier-Enhancing Formulation

Recent studies have shown that pollen proteins can penetrate the impaired skin barrier of atopic patients and exacerbate their disease. In the presented study the effect of a topically applied barrier-enhancing formulation was investigated for its preventive effect on the uptake of pollen allergens into CD1c+ epidermal cells. The pollen proteins were fluorescence labelled and applied on barrier-disrupted excised human skin. CD1c+ cells were selected after magnetic cell sorting and analysed using laser scanning microscopy. In untreated disrupted skin, 81% of the CD1c+ cells contained the fluorescence-labelled pollen allergens. In formulation-pretreated skin only 12% of the CD1c+ cells showed an uptake of pollen allergens. These results encourage the treatment of atopic patients with barrier-enhancing formulations to reduce the impact of pollen on air-exposed skin areas and hence the exacerbation of cutaneous symptoms.

Highly efficient and compatible shampoo for use after hair transplant

Background Sensitive or hyperreactive skin is a common condition defined by prickling, burning, pain, and pruritus. Although this skin problem was initially described on the face, the scalp is often affected. A sensitive scalp can react with irritation to harsh surfactants or other additives which are often present in shampoos. For this reason, we developed a new rinse-off hypertolerant shampoo specifically designed for the hypersensitive and problematic scalp. Methods The shampoo formulation is based on an extremely mild surfactant system and contains bisabolol, an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory ingredient of chamomile. The shampoo is free of additives such as perfumes, silicones, colorants, parabens, paraffins, and betaine. Since skin can remain in a hyperreactive state after wounding, the status after hair transplantation was chosen as a model system to test the shampoo. Scalp condition and compatibility of each volunteer were analyzed by a plastic surgeon directly after hair transplant and after stitch removal. The plastic surgeons also rated whether they would recommend the further use of the test shampoo. Additionally, volunteers completed a self-assessment questionnaire. Results Following hair transplantation, regular use of the shampoo resulted in a significant reduction in the extent of scabbing and erythema. This was confirmed by dermatological scalp examinations performed by the plastic surgeon as well as in volunteers’ self-assessments. The plastic surgeon highly recommended the further use of the test shampoo after hair transplant to all study participants. Conclusion Application of the test shampoo demonstrated excellent skin compatibility and product efficacy after hair transplant. The test shampoo significantly reduced the extent of scabs and erythema. Therefore, the shampoo is ideally suited for use after hair transplantation and for the treatment of sensitive scalp. The excellent skin compatibility is because of the mild surfactant system, the calming ingredient bisabolol, and the absence of potentially irritating ingredients.

Impact of a pH 5 Oil-in-Water Emulsion on Skin Surface pH

Background: Human skin surface has a physiologically acidic pH (pHss). In cases of increased pHss, the acidity of the skin can be restored by topical formulations. We tested a pH 5 oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion for pHss regeneration and stabilization. Methods: We performed 2 experiments with 10 female study subjects in each. In both experiments, 2D imaging with luminescent sensor foils was used to determine pHss. Alkalization was reached by washing the volar forearm with a soap bar and warm running tap water for 20 min. Experiment 1: after defining the baseline pHss, we alkalized the respective area and measured pHss over a duration of 5 h, while applying emulsion every hour. Experiment 2: study subjects used the emulsion twice daily for 1 week. Then, pHss was measured before and after 5 min of washing a treated and an untreated area on the volar forearm. Results: (1) 5 h after alkalization, the treated arm showed a significantly lower pHss than the untreated one (5.87 ± 0.03 vs. 6.05 ± 0.03); (2) after washing, the treated area had a significantly lower pHss than controls (6.13 ± 0.03 vs. 6.27 ± 0.05). Conclusions: The tested pH 5 O/W emulsion seems to improve regeneration and stabilization of pHss.