Ana Matias

The first two years of an inlet: sedimentary dynamics

Abstract A monitoring program, including the acquisition of a series of topo-bathymetric surveys and oblique aerial photos, has been carried out at Ancao Inlet since its artificial opening in June 1997. This paper presents morphological and volumetric results, including inlet channel evolution (in terms of width, depth and cross-sectional area) and tidal delta formation. The results are analysed in relation to the prevailing oceanographic conditions. This allows the development of a conceptual evolutionary model for the natural evolution of artificially opened inlets with four stages: Stage 1 is the artificially opened inlet; Stage 2 represents the inlet after reaching dynamic equilibrium for the channel while ebb- and flood-tidal deltas are still developing; Stage 3 is the “mature” migrating inlet; and Stage PS (stage post-storm) is the inlet situation after high-energy conditions. The transition from Stage 1 to Stage 3 is a continuous process with intermediate sub-stages. Transition to Stage PS is a discrete phenomenon, caused by high-energy events, after which the inlet gradually changes back to the previous stage. Ancao Inlet was in Stage 1 in June 1997. In April 1998 the inlet channel reached dynamic equilibrium, thus beginning Stage 2. One year after the opening (July 1998) the inlet showed fully developed ebb and flood deltas, reaching the end of Stage 2. Transition to Stage 3, with the beginning of the downdrift migration and bypassing processes, took place during the second year. Stage PS characteristics were observed in January 1999 after high-energy storm conditions, with strong evidence of landward sediment transport. Although the conceptual model was developed for Ancao Inlet, it is envisaged that it could be applicable to other mixed-energy migrating inlets opened in an artificial way.

Recent Evolution of the Natural Inlets of a Barrier Island System in Southern Portugal

ABSTRACT Four natural inlets, existing in a multi-inlet, barrier island system, were studied for the period between the 1940s and 1996. Inlet width and position of the inlet channel were determined using a series of vertical aerial photos and charts. The objective of the work was to determine the association between inlet migration patterns and different hydrodynamic conditions, major storms and engineering interventions. Results indicate that natural inlet opening and evolution were mainly affected by three factors: (a) existence of sub-embayments (western and eastern) inside the system, (b) exposure to wave energy, and (c) inlet efficiency. Two distinctive eastward migration patterns were found by analysing the correlation coefficient (r) between inlet width evolution and inlet migration and by the comparison of the shape of the curves fitted to the inlet migration behaviour.Typical migration of the high-energy flank (on the west side of the system) is characterised by an initial stage of readjustment, with low migration rates, followed by a stage of high eastwards migration rates, up to a limiting position. Inlet width remains reasonably constant during the entire migration cycle, thus the correlation between inlet width and position is very low.Typical inlets on the low-energy flank (east side of the system) are formed by barrier breaching during major storms and produce initially very wide inlets. Eastward inlet migration on the low-energy flank follows a natural logarithmic curve where channel migration is accompanied by strong constructional processes on the updrift barrier. Due to subsequent inlet width reductions, the correlation between inlet width and position is significant.

Artificial Construction of Dunes in the South of Portugal

Abstract The Cacela Peninsula on the south coast of Portugal was, previous to nourishment operations, extremely vulnerable to overwash events. During the 1995–96 winter, extensive overwashing led to the opening of a new inlet. Simultaneously, the lagoon channel in the backbarrier was silting up with the overwash deposits, inlet flood delta sands, and accretion of fine sediments. Between October 1996 and February 1997 the channel was dredged, and the sediments were deposited on the western 2,000 meters of the Cacela Peninsula, forming an artificial dune ridge. The sediment characteristics of the dredge spoils were in contrast with the natural dune sand. The spoils had higher silt and clay content, lower mean grain size, and poorer sorting. In January 1998, three washover breaches were infilled, with sand removed from the foreshore, on the eastern part of the Cacela Peninsula. These sands were coarser and more poorly sorted than the original dune sediments. A 2-year monitoring program, consisting of beach/dune profiling, topographic surveys in specific areas, and sediment analysis, was established to observe the morphological evolution of these areas. The total eroded volume recorded for the dune nourishment project after 2 years was about 106,500 cubic meters, corresponding to 33% of the total 325,000 cubic meters of sediment that was deposited. The washover infilling showed little or no variation. However, the downdrift beaches and foredunes experienced severe erosion. Both protective measures accomplished their purposes in terms of preventing erosion; however, a natural landscape was only created where dune development by aeolian processes was possible.

Overwash experiment on a sandy barrier

ABSTRACT Matias, A., Masselink, G., Kroon, A., Blenkinsopp, C., and Turner, I.L., 2013. Overwash experiment on a sandy barrier This paper uses results obtained from the large-scale BARDEX II experiment undertaken in the Delta flume to investigate the morphological response of a prototype sandy barrier to wave and tidal forcing during overwash conditions. Since overwash processes are known to control short-term barrier dynamics and long-term barrier migration, the development of a robust quantitative method to define the critical conditions leading to barrier overwash is important both for scientific and practical management purposes. The Overwash Potential (OP), defined as the difference between the wave runup and the barrier elevation is used to define the overwash threshold condition, and to predict the morphological outcome of a particular overwash event. When OP is negative, wave runup is lower than the barrier crest and insignificant morphological changes are noticed at the barrier crest. When OP is positive, overwash occurs because predicted runup elevation is higher than the barrier crest. When OP is close to zero, overtop is expected with limited intrusion of water across the top of the barrier crest. To make effective use of OP it is necessary to identify a reliable runup predictor. Twelve runup equations were tested for this purpose, and the results were compared with the ones obtained using data from BARDEX experiment on a gravel barrier. A most reliable approach for the determination of OP for sandy barrier was similar to gravel barrier overwash experiments, with runup predictions provided by the equation of Stockdon et al. [Stockdon, H.F., Holman, R.A., Howd, P.A.,Sallenger, A.H., 2006. Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup. Coast. Eng., 53, 573–588]. This is striking, since different runup predictors would have been expected because beach slope, hydraulic conductivity, grain-size, amongst other factors, differ for both types of barriers. Nevertheless, the two main morphologic characteristics for the computation of OP are beach slope and the barrier crest elevation, both accounted for in the proposed equation. The use of OP values provides a practical means by which to identify potential coastal hazards associated with barrier overwash processes and is considered to have a range of practical coastal management applications.

BARDEX II: Bringing the beach to the laboratory - again!

ABSTRACT Masselink, G, Turner, I.L., Conley, D.C., Ruessink, B.G., Matias, A., Thompson, C., Castelle, B. and Wolters, G., 2013. BARDEX II: Bringing the beach to the laboratory – again! Proto-type laboratory experiments are particularly useful in coastal research when forcing parameters are modified in a way that is impossible to achieve in the field, and where installation and maintenance of instrumentation requires absence of waves. In 2008, the Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX) took place in the Delta Flume, the Netherlands. This project, funded by Hydralab III, focused on the effect of varying wave, sea level and beach groundwater conditions on a gravel beach (D50 = 10 mm). In 2012, a similar project was carried out, referred to as BARDEX II, this time funded by Hydralab IV and on a sandy beach (D50 = 0.42 mm). During the experiment, a 4.5-m high and 70-m wide sandy barrier was constructed in the flume with a lagoon situated to the landward. The barrier was instrumented with a very large number (> 200) of instruments and subjected to a range of wave conditions (Hs = 0.8 m; Tp = 4–12 s) and varying sea and lagoon water levels. Five distinct test series were executed over a 20-day period: series A focused on beach response due to accretionary/erosive wave conditions and a high/low lagoon water level; series B investigated the effect of a lower sea level on nearshore bar dynamics; series C simulated tidal effects; series D addressed the swash/overtopping/overwash threshold; and during series E the beach-barrier system was subjected to an extended period of energetic overwash conditions. This paper will describe the experimental design and the test programme during BARDEX II.

Short-Term Sediment Transport at a Backbarrier Beach

Abstract This article defines short-term (tidal cycle) sediment-transport patterns at a backbarrier beach based on detailed field studies. Fieldwork was planned to record nonstorm, spring tide conditions that enable the definition of background sediment dynamics at the study area. The experiment was set at two beach morphologies: beach face and sandbank. Current meters were deployed at both sites. Fluorescent tracer techniques were applied to determine rates and direction of transport. Topographic surveys and sediment sampling were undertaken. During the experiment, limited tracer displacement and small morphological changes occurred. The low magnitude changes are representative of predominant, low-energy hydrodynamic conditions. Sediment transport was primarily longshore orientated and dependent on the velocity of tidal currents. Tidal currents had the potential for sediment transport only during a short period of the tidal cycle and had higher velocities during ebb, which results in a net sediment transport orientated towards the nearby inlet. It is suggested that there is dependence on sediment transport rate at the study site and on the variability of tidal currents, which are greatly influenced by the distance to, and conditions of, the nearby Ancão Inlet. Resumo O presente artigo define os padrões de transporte sedimentar, a curta escala de temporal (a nível do ciclo de maré), para uma praia interna localizada no interior de um sistema de ilhas barreira. Os trabalhos de campo decorreram durante um clima de não tempestade, em regime de marés vivas, permitindo a definição das condições morfodinâmicas de base da praia. A experiência incidiu em duas morfologias, na face de praia e num banco arenoso paralelo à praia, localizado na parte terminal do perfil. Em cada uma dessas morfologias foi colocado um correntómetro. Nos mesmos locais procedeu-se ainda à colocação de traçador fluorescente, para aferir a taxa e direcção de transporte sedimentar. Foi ainda efectuado um levantamento topográfico da área total, e colheita de sedimento superficial. Na generalidade, observou-se fraca deslocação do traçador desde o ponto de injecção, bem como a ocorrência de alterações morfológicas pouco significativas. O clima de não tempestade a que se associam estas fracas alterações morfológicas representa as condições hidrodinâmicas típicas da praia. O transporte sedimentar é maioritariamente longilitoral, sendo controlado pela velocidade da corrente de maré. As correntes de maré apresentaram potencial para desenvolvimento de transporte sedimentar durante um curto período do ciclo de maré, com maiores velocidades em vazante. Em resultado, o transporte sedimentar é preferencialmente orientado para a barra de maré. Assim, sugere-se a existência de uma dependência entre a magnitude do transporte na área de estudo e as correntes de maré, directamente relacionadas com a Barra do Ancão.

Historic Monuments Threatened by Coastal Hazards at Boca do Rio, Algarve, Portugal

The coastal stretch of Boca do Rio, western Algarve, Portugal, is experiencing shoreline retreat. Roman ruins are located along the beach section of the coast, and a 17th-century fort is positioned over the cliff section. Both historic monuments are being destroyed by erosion but need to be protected due to their heritage status. Aerial photograph analysis was used to define the evolution of the coast for the period 1945–2001. Shoreline retreat of 0.3 m/year was measured for the sandy coast and 14 mass movements in the cliff face were identified. Considering the rate and style of shoreline evolution, several types of management scenario were evaluated, with the favored measures being the removal of the Roman ruins to a museum and the relocation of the fort inland.

The East Coast of Algarve: a Barrier Island Dominated Coast

The east coast of the Algarve (Olhos de Água – Guadiana) is a low sandy coast with a high diversity of environments, including a cliffed coast, sandy beaches, dune ridges, an estuary, artificial/antrophic sectors and a main, complex, central morphology: the Ria Formosa barrier islands and coastal lagoon system. The large majority of this coastal sector is within the Ria Formosa Natural Park and therefore protected by Nature conservation laws. Nevertheless, human activities contributed to some of the most important changes on coastal behaviour during the last decades, increasing processes complexity and incrementing furthermore the difficulties for the already demanding understanding of coastal evolution.

Nearshore and foreshore influence on overwash of a barrier island

ABSTRACT Matias, A., Carrasco, A.R., Loureiro, C., Almeida, S., Ferreira, Ó., 2014. Nearshore and foreshore influence on overwash of a barrier island. In: Green, A.N. and Cooper, J.A.G. (eds.), Proceedings 13th International Coastal Symposium (Durban, South Africa), Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 70, pp. 675–680, ISSN 0749-0208. Accurate prediction of the occurrence and morphological consequences of overwash are important for coastal flood risk assessment and management. A number of morphological and oceanographic factors controlling overwash have been identified by several authors, including nearshore bathymetry. This work intends to identify alongshore variations in storm impact and evaluate the role of sub-aerial and submerged morphological variations in overwash occurrence. For this study, 24 cross-shore topo-bathymetric profiles were set on Barreta Island (Ria Formosa barrier island system, Portugal), extending from the nearshore to the lagoon level on the island backbarrier. Pre- and post-overwash surveys were made between August 2012 and April 2013. Offshore wave characteristics were obtained during overwash events including offshore significant wave height (Hs), peak period and wave direction. Wave propagation and wave parameters at breaking were obtained from SWAN model simulations. During the study period, overwash occurred both under storm conditions (e.g., Hs = 3.8 m) and non-storm conditions (e.g., Hs = 0.8 m), the latter coincident with spring high-tide. Overwash water intrusion distance across the barrier varied alongshore between 0 m (no overwash) and 40 m (reaching lagoon waters). Beach morphology was spatially variable, and changeable from one overwash episode to the next. Important morphological variations of the barrier include modification of barrier crest elevation, beach slope, and presence of swash bars in the vicinity of Ancão Inlet. Predictions of overwash occurrence were made by means of the computation of the Overwash Potential (OP), defined as the difference between the wave runup and the barrier elevation. Several runup equations were tested, and the results of obtained OP were compared to the observations of actual overwash occurrence to determine the most reliable approach. The selected predictor provided an accuracy of 88% for the identification of the locations where overwash processes occurred along the barrier. The predictions were variable alongshore due to variations in breaking waves and beach slope, which in turn are related to the existence of nearshore bars, associated with the presence of the updrift Ancão Inlet. This study proves that nearshore and foreshore morphologies have a major impact on the longshore variation of overwash distribution.

Overtopping hazard on a rubble mound breakwater

ABSTRACT Carrasco, A.R., Reis, M.T., Neves, M.G., Ferreira, Ó., Matias, A, Almeida, S., 2014. Overtopping hazard on a rubble mound breakwater. In: Green, A.N. and Cooper, J.A.G. (eds.), Proceedings 13th International Coastal Symposium (Durban, South Africa), Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 70, pp. 247–252, ISSN 0749-0208. A major concern of coastal engineering is not only to access the damage to coastal structures by severe wave overtopping, but also the hazard imposed to users. Local hazard is often associated to the volume of overtopping water per unit of time (called overtopping discharge). Despite two decades of intensive research, it is yet not fully clear to practitioners what is the best method to compute the discharge parameter and its application on the assessment of local hazard. This work provides insight into the overtopping characterization in rubble mound breakwaters, by distinguishing different methods to assess hazardous overtopping. Fieldwork was conducted over a tidal cycle in a breakwater located at Albufeira Harbour (South coast of Portugal) under storm conditions (Hso~ 3 m; Tp ~ 9 s). Mean overtopping discharges were calculated from field measurements of flow depths and velocities at the breakwater slope armour and at the impermeable crest. Two different velocities were calculated: overtopping leading-edge velocity and overtopping peak velocity. The two methods provided similar results, with higher velocities occurring during high-tide (between 2 and 10 m/s). Mean overtopping discharges at the beginning of the impermeable crest ranged between 0.2 and 0.8 l/s/m. Under the measured hydrodynamic conditions, the breakwater offers risk to all types of pedestrians. Additionally it is shown that field measurements compare relatively well with empirical prediction methods (for the overall analysed overtopping events), namely the corrected NN_OVERTOPPING2 neural network tool. Besides contributing to the overall database on wave overtopping in coastal structures, the presented results can also be used for calibration and validation of overtopping evaluation methods (empirical formulae, artificial neural networks and numerical and physical models).