Ayça Gürarda

Investigation of the Seam Performance of PET/Nylon-elastane Woven Fabrics

This paper presents an experimental study of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. In this study, plain and twill fabrics were woven with three different weft densities. Two different sewing threads were used during the sewing of the fabrics. Therefore, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon-elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and PET air-covered yarn was used as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam slippage strength, sewing needle penetration force and seam efficiency were determined for these fabrics for seam performance. The purpose of this study was to identify the suitable sewing conditions in order to achieve good seam performance. This study also investigated the effects of weft density, weave type and sewing thread on the seam performance.This paper presents an experimental study of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. In this study, plain and twill fabrics were woven with three different weft densities. Two different sewing threads were used during the sewing of the fabrics. Therefore, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon-elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and PET air-covered yarn was used as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam slippage strength, sewing needle penetration force and seam efficiency were determined for these fabrics for seam performance. The purpose of this study was to identify the suitable sewing conditions in order to achieve good seam performance. This study also investigated the effects of weft density, weave type and sewing thread on the seam performance.

Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Elastane Fiber Damage during the Sewing of Cotton/Elastane Woven Fabrics

This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting temperature and finishing process on the penetration forces of a sewing needle and damage to the elastane fibre during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Seam strength and seam opening strength of the fabrics were also determined for assessment of seam performance. In this study three fabric types with three different elastane weft yarn draw ratios were taken as samples for the experiments. As the first step a pre-setting process was applied to all three types of fabric at two different temperatures and at the finishing process half of the samples were treated with silicone and the other half were washed only. In total, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon/elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and cotton yarn as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam opening strength, needle penetration forces and “needle damage index” were determined for these fabric samples. The needle penetration forces were between 100 and 140 cN and the “needle damage index” values were between 20 and 42%. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope to show the elastane fiber damage during the sewing.

The effects of various lubricants on the friction properties of sewing threads

This paper describes an experimental investigation into the effects of different types and amounts of lubricants on the friction properties of sewing threads. In this work, four types of sewing threads, CO, PET-spun, core-spun (PET/PET) and core-spun (PET/CO) were used. Three different lubricant types and lubricant feeding rates (0.5, 1 and 2 g/min) were applied to the sewing threads. The results of the research show that the type and amount of lubricant have important effects on the friction of the sewing threads. The friction coefficient values of all sewing thread types with paraffin-based lubricant were the lowest among the lubricants. As the amount of paraffin wax in the lubricants increased, the fiber/metal friction forces slightly decreased. To obtain the lowest friction coefficient, a 0.5 g/min lubricant feeding rate and a 2.5–3% lubricant amount should be used for sewing threads.

Investigation the Effects of Fabric Ply Numbers to the Sewing Needle Penetration Force

In this study, it is aimed to investigate the effects of fabric ply numbers to the seam performance specially sewing needle penetration forces. Therefore, four fabric samples having different specifications were obtained and these fabrics were sewn with one, two, three and four plies. Sewing needle penetration forces were determined for these fabric plies. At the end of the study, it has been shown that at fabric seams when fabric ply number increased, sewing needle penetration forces also increased and fabric yarns were damaged more quickly by the needle which have high penetration force