Bruce M. Richmond

Storm-controlled oblique dunes of the Oregon coast

The large (mean height 25 m, spacing 300 m), relatively straight-crested dunes of the central Oregon coast migrate an average of 3.8 m/yr toward an azimuth of 26°. The dunes are transverse to the strong, south-southwesterly winter storm winds that are responsible for their basic form, orientation, and migration. The dry, moderate, north-northwesterly summer winds modify the dune form but not the dune trend. Comparison of the sand transport calculated from wind data and the transport measured from dune migration indicates that the actual transport by the wet southerly winds is only one-third of the amount calculated assuming dry conditions. The resultant (vector-mean) transport rate, as recalculated by comparison of the measured and initially calculated rates, is 34 m 3 /m·yr toward an azimuth of 45°. The dunes are thus oblique by our definition of an oblique dune (angle between dune trend and resultant transport direction between 15° and 75°). The internal structures of the dunes confirm northward migration during wet conditions. Evidence for deposition during wet conditions includes slipface deposits deformed mostly by sliding and various structures formed by the adhesion of sand grains to wet surfaces. Most summer deposits are not preserved, but those on the basal apron (the gentle north slope at the base of the winter slipface) have a high preservation potential. A depositional model based on dune climbing predicts that the preserved record of oblique dunes formed by an obtuse-bimodal wind regime would consist of tabular sets of crossbeds in which the dip angles increase upward from the base of each set.

The Holocene sea-level highstand in the equatorial Pacific: analysis of the insular paleosea-level database

Abstract A review of the literature provides 92 estimates of the middle to late Holocene sea-level highstand on Pacific Islands. These data generally support geophysical model calculations that predict a +1 to 3 m relative sea-level highstand on oceanic islands due to the Earth’s rheological response to the melting of the last continental ice sheets and subsequent redistribution of meltwater. Both predictions and observations indicate sea level was higher than present in the equatorial Pacific between 5000 and 1500 y B.P. A non-linear relationship exists between the age and elevation of the highstand peak, suggesting that different rates of isostatic adjustment may occur in the Pacific, with the highest rates of sea-level fall following the highstand near the equator. It is important to resolve detailed sea-level histories from insular sites to test and refine models of climatic, oceanographic, and geophysical processes including hydroisostasy, equatorial ocean siphoning, and lithospheric flexure that are invoked as mechanisms affecting relative sea-level position. We use a select subset of the available database meeting specific criteria to examine model relationships of paleosea-surface topography. This new evaluated database of paleosea-level positions is also validated for testing and constraining geophysical model predictions of past and present sea-level variations.

Airborne laser study quantifies El Ni˜o‐induced Coastal Change

Winter storms during the 1997–1998 El Nino caused extensive changes to the beaches and cliffs of the west coast of the United States, a NASA-NOAA-USGS investigation using a scanning airborne laser has found. For example, near Pacifica in central California, the cliff eroded locally as much as 10–13 m landward during the El Nino winter, at least 40 times the long term average erosion rate. However, only several hundred meters away the cliff was stable. This variability in cliff response may be related to differences in local beach changes where an accreting beach protected part of the cliff and an eroding beach exposed another part to attack by waves.

AGE AND COMPOSITION OF CARBONATE SHOREFACE SEDIMENTS, KAILUA BAY, OAHU, HAWAII

Abstract The origin, age, and dynamics of carbonate sediments in Kailua Bay on Oahu, Hawaii, are described. The shoreface (from shoreline to 4 km offshore) consists of a broad (5 km2) fringing coral reef ecosystem bisected by a sinuous, shore-normal, sand-filled paleostream channel 200–300 m wide. The median grain diameter of surface sands is finest on the beach face (<0.3 mm) and increases offshore along the channel axis. Kailua sands are >90% biogenic carbonate, dominated by skeletal fragments of coralline algae (e.g. Porolithon, up to 50%) followed by the calcareous green alga Halimeda (up to 32%), coral fragments (1–24%), mollusc fragments (6–21%), and benthic foraminifera (1–10%). Sand composition and age across the shoreface are correlated to carbonate production. Corals and coralline algae, principal builders of the reef framework, are younger and more abundant in sands along the channel axis and in offshore reefal areas, while Halimeda, molluscs, and foraminifera are younger and more dominant in nearshore waters shoreward of the main region of framework building. Shoreface sediments are relatively old. Of 20 calibrated radiocarbon dates on skeletal constituents of sand, only three are younger than 500 years b.p.; six are 500–1000 years b.p.; six are 1000–2000 years b.p.; and five are 2000–5000 years b.p. Dated fine sands are older than medium to coarse sands and hence may constitute a reservoir of fossil carbonate that is distributed over the entire shoreface. Dominance of fossiliferous sand indicates long storage times for carbonate grains, which tend to decrease in size with age, such that the entire period of relative sea-level inundation (∼5000 years) is represented in the sediment. Despite an apparently healthy modern coral ecosystem, the surficial sand pool of Kailua Bay is dominated by sand reflecting an antecedent system, possibly one that existed under a +1–2 m sea-level high stand during the mid- to late Holocene.

Rates and trends of coastal change in California and the regional behavior of the beach and cliff system.

Abstract The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) recently completed an analysis of shoreline change and cliff retreat along the California coast. This is the first regional, systematic measurement of coastal change conducted for the West Coast. Long-term (∼120 y) and short-term (∼25 y) shoreline change rates were calculated for more than 750 km of coastline, and 70 year cliff-retreat rates were generated for 350 km of coast. Results show that 40% of Californias beaches were eroding in the long term. This number increased to 66% in the short term, indicating that many beaches have shifted toward a state of chronic erosion. The statewide average net shoreline change rates for the long and short term were 0.2 m/y and −0.2 m/y, respectively. The long-term accretional signal is likely related to large coastal engineering projects in some parts of the state and to large fluxes of sediment from rivers in other areas. The cliff-retreat assessment yielded a statewide average of −0.3 m/y. It was found that Northern California has the highest overall retreat rates, which are influenced by erosion hot spots associated with large coastal landslides and slumps. The databases established as part of the shoreline change and cliff-retreat analyses were further investigated to examine the dynamics of the beach/cliff system. A correlation analysis identified a strong relationship between the geomorphology of the coast and the behavior of the beach/cliff system. Areas of high-relief coast show negative correlations, indicating that higher rates of cliff retreat correlate with lower rates of shoreline erosion. In contrast, low-to moderate-relief coasts show strong positive correlations, wherein areas of high shoreline change correspond to areas of high cliff retreat.

High-Frequency Sediment-Level Oscillations in the Swash Zone

Abstract Sediment-level oscillations with heights of about 6 cm and shore-normal lengths of order 10 m have been measured in the swash zone of a high-energy, coarse-sand beach. Crests of oscillations were shore parallel and continuous alongshore. The oscillations were of such low steepness (height-to-length ratio approximately 0.006) that they were difficult to detect visually. The period of oscillation ranged between 6 and 15 min and decreased landward across the swash zone. The sediment-level oscillations were progressive landward with an average migration rate in the middle to upper swash zone of 0.8 m min −1 . Migration was caused mostly by erosion on the seaward flank of the crest of an oscillation during a period of net seaward sediment transport. Thus, the observed migration was a form migration landward rather than a migration involving net landward sediment transport. The observed sediment-level oscillations were different than sand waves or other swash-zone bedforms previously described.

Quantifying landscape change in an arctic coastal lowland using repeat airborne LiDAR

Increases in air, permafrost, and sea surface temperature, loss of sea ice, the potential for increased wave energy, and higher river discharge may all be interacting to escalate erosion of arctic coastal lowland landscapes. Here we use airborne light detection and ranging (LiDAR) data acquired in 2006 and 2010 to detect landscape change in a 100 km2 study area on the Beaufort Sea coastal plain of northern Alaska. We detected statistically significant change (99% confidence interval), defined as contiguous areas (>10 m2) that had changed in height by at least 0.55 m, in 0.3% of the study region. Erosional features indicative of ice-rich permafrost degradation were associated with ice-bonded coastal, river, and lake bluffs, frost mounds, ice wedges, and thermo-erosional gullies. These features accounted for about half of the area where vertical change was detected. Inferred thermo-denudation and thermo-abrasion of coastal and river bluffs likely accounted for the dominant permafrost-related degradational processes with respect to area (42%) and volume (51%). More than 300 thermokarst pits significantly subsided during the study period, likely as a result of storm surge flooding of low-lying tundra (<1.4 m asl) as well as the lasting impact of warm summers in the late-1980s and mid-1990s. Our results indicate that repeat airborne LiDAR can be used to detect landscape change in arctic coastal lowland regions at large spatial scales over sub-decadal time periods.

Coarse-sediment bands on the inner shelf of southern Monterey Bay, California

Abstract Bands of coarse sand that trend parallel to the shore, unlike the approximately shore-normal bands found in many inner shelf areas, occur in southern Monterey Bay at water depths of 10–20 m, less than 1 km from the shore. The bands are 20–100 m wide and alternate with bands of fine sand that are of similar width. The coarse-sand bands are as much as 1 m lower than the adjacent fine-sand bands, which have margins inclined at angles of about 20°. The mean grain sizes of the coarse and fine sand are in the range of 0.354–1.0 mm and 0.125–0.354 mm, respectively. Wave ripples that average about 1 m in spacing always occur in the coarse-sand bands. Over a period of 3 yrs, the individual bands moved irregularly and changed in shape, as demonstrated by repeated sidescan sonar surveys and by the monitoring of rods jetted into the sea floor. However, the overall pattern and distribution of the bands remained essentially unchanged. Cores, 0.5–1.0 m long, taken in coarse-sand bands contain 0.2–0.5 m of coarse sand overlying fine sand or interbedded fine and coarse sand. Cores from fine-sand bands have at least one thin coarse sand layer at about the depth of the adjacent coarse-sand band. None of the cores revealed a thick deposit of coarse sand. The shore-parallel bands are of unknown origin. Their origin is especially puzzling because approximately shore-normal bands are present in parts of the study area and immediately to the north.

CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT OF BIMODAL SANDS

This report will update the coastal zone practitioner on the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) as it affects the implementation of manmade changes along the coastline. It is our intent to place in proper perspective this fast-changing and often difficult to interpret national program. Readers will achieve an overall understanding of the NFIP on the coast, and will be in a position to apply the programs requirements in their efforts. We will begin with a history of the application of the NFIP to the coastal zone. The history of the problems encountered will lead into current regulations, methodologies, and the changes the Federal Emergency Management Agency plans for the future.The spatial variability of the nearshore wave field is examined in terms of the coherence functions found between five closely spaced wave gages moored off the North Carolina coast in 17 meters depth. Coherence was found to rapidly decrease as the separation distance increased, particularly in the along-crest direction. This effect is expressed as nondimensional coherence contours which can be used to provide an estimate of the wave coherence expected between two spatial positions.Prediction of depositional patterns in estuaries is one of the primary concerns to coastal engineers planning major hydraulic works. For a well-mixed estuary where suspended load is the dominant transport mode, we propose to use the divergence of the distribution of the net suspended load to predict the depositional patterns. The method is applied to Hangzhou Bay, and the results agree well qualitatively with measured results while quantitatively they are also of the right order of magnitude.

Daily cycles in coastal dunes

Abstract Daily cycles of summer sea breezes produce distinctive cyclic foreset deposits in dune sands of the Texas and Oregon coasts. In both areas the winds are strong enough to transport sand only during part of the day, reach a peak during the afternoon, and vary little in direction during the period of sand transport. Cyclicity in the foreset deposits is made evident by variations in the type of sedimentary structure, the texture, and the heavy-mineral content of the sand. Some of the cyclic deposits are made up entirely of one basic type of structure, in which the character of the structure varies cyclically; for example, the angle of climb in a climbing-wind-ripple structure may vary cyclically. Other cyclic deposits are characterized by alternations of two or more structural types. Variations in the concentration of fine-grained heavy minerals, which account for the most striking cyclicity, arise mainly because of segregation on wind-rippled depositional surfaces: where the ripples climb at low angles, the coarsegrained light minerals, which accumulate preferentially on ripple crests, tend to be excluded from the local deposit. Daily cyclic deposits are thickest and best developed on small dunes and are least recognizable near the bases of large dunes.