Catherine Gondran

Image analysis to quantify histological and immunofluorescent staining of ex vivo skin and skin cell cultures

Image processing steps and analysis techniques were developed for the quantification of photomicrographs obtained from light and fluorescence microscopy. The substrates examined were either skin cell cultures, such as normal human keratinocytes (NHK) or fibroblasts, or ex vivo skin sections. Examples of the analyses are provided for the comparison of skincare active ingredient treated samples vs. placebo to demonstrate the utility of the methods to quantify and provide numerical data for a procedure that is typically qualitative in nature and based on observations by a histologist. Quantifiable experiments that are discussed include: Fontana Masson staining for melanin expression; Nile red staining to detect cellular lipid droplets; nuclei staining with diamidino‐phenylindole (DAPI); and immunofluorescent staining of protein expression with a primary antibody directed against the protein (antigen) and a secondary antibody tagged with a fluorescent dye (Alexa Fluor 488) against the primary antibody.

Skin presenting a higher level of caspase-14 is better protected from UVB irradiation according to in vitro and in vivo studies.

Caspase-14, a cysteine endoproteinase belonging to the conserved family of aspartate-specific proteinases, was shown to play an important role in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and barrier function of the skin. In the present study, we developed a biofunctional compound that we described as a modulator of caspase-14 expression. Using normal human keratinocytes (NHK) in culture and human skin biopsies, this compound was shown to increase caspase-14 expression and partially reverse the effect of caspase-14-specific siRNA on NHK. Moreover, the increase in filaggrin expression visualized on skin biopsies and the recovery of the barrier structure after tape-stripping indicated that this compound could exhibit a beneficial effect on the skin barrier function. Considering the possible link between caspase-14 and the barrier function, a UVB irradiation on NHK and skin biopsies previously treated with the caspase-14 inducer, was performed. Results indicated that pretreated skin biopsies exhibited less signs of UV damage such as active caspase-3 and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). Likewise, pretreated NHK were protected from UV-induced genomic DNA damage, as revealed by the Comet Assay. Finally, a clinical test showed a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on the treated skin compared with placebo, under UV stress condition, confirming a protecting effect. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that, by increasing caspase-14 expression, the biofunctional compound could exhibit a protective effect on the skin barrier function, especially in case of barrier damage and UV irradiation.

Impact of AQP3 inducer treatment on cultured human keratinocytes, ex vivo human skin and volunteers.

One of the main functions of the skin is to protect the organism against environmental threats, such as thermal stress. Aquaporin‐3 (AQP3) facilitates water and glycerol transport across cell membranes and therefore regulates osmotic balance in different situations of stress. This mechanism seems to be particularly important for the resistance of different organisms to cold stress. Consequently, we were interested in investigating the effect of cold and osmotic stress on AQP3 expression in normal human keratinocytes. We developed a new active ingredient to stimulate aquaporins in skin and demonstrated the partial restoration of AQP3 expression in keratinocytes transfected with AQP3 siRNA. Moreover, we examined the effect of cold stress on cell morphology and the impact of a pre‐treatment with the active ingredient. Our results indicated that induction of AQP3 helped maintain a correct organization of the actin cytoskeleton, preserving cell morphology and preventing cells from rounding. Immunofluorescent staining revealed cytoplasmic localization of AQP3 and its translocation to the cell membrane following osmotic stress. Histological ex vivo studies of skin under different conditions, such as cold environment and tape‐stripping, indicated that increase in AQP3 expression appears to be involved in skin protection and showed that the pattern of AQP3 expression was more enhanced in the active ingredient‐treated samples. In vivo confocal microscopy by Vivascope showed a generally healthier appearance of the skin in the treated areas. These results attest to the potential value of the active ingredient in optimizing environmental stress resistance and protecting the skin from stratum corneum damage.

Maintenance of the ubiquitin-proteasome system activity correlates with visible skin benefits

Researches on longevity and anti‐ageing molecules have clearly evidenced the potential to increase lifespan of the cells. These recent scientific data raise interests and questions on the capacity of the cells to live longer and maintain their fundamental mechanisms of protection, reparation or degradation of abnormal proteins to maintain their capital of healthy and functional cellular activity. In this concern, this study was focused on the ubiquitin–proteasome system as an essential cellular tool to maintain the pool of functionally active proteins allowing renewal of proteins and degradation of damaged proteins. As the proteasome keeps the ‘cells health capital’, it should be particularly interesting to associate the maintenance of the proteasome activity with increasing longevity. Indeed, although oxidative stress damage increases with ageing leading to collagen and cellular membrane alterations, it also leads to a reduction in the proteasome activity which is critical for the cells. The aim of this study was to better understand the cellular role of the proteasome and to provide new data showing the skin beneficial effects in activating the overall system of ubiquitination and proteasomal degradation. For this purpose, in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo experiments were performed to evaluate the effects of maintaining the ubiquitin–proteasome activity in basal and stress conditions on young versus aged cells. Experiments have included evaluation of a newly developed dimerized tripeptide targeting specifically the ubiquitin–proteasome pathway. Our results have demonstrated that maintenance of this essential mechanism that participates in abnormal protein elimination and protein renewal allows maintaining cellular integrity that correlates with visible skin benefits.