Christian Schimper

Influence of steam and dry heat pretreatment on fibre properties and cellulase degradation of cellulosic fibres

Cellulosic fabric samples of cotton, viscose, lyocell and modal were pretreated with steam and dry heat in the range of 100–190°C. The samples were then treated with a Trichoderma reesei cellulase preparation (total culture filtrate – TC), with mechanical agitation, at a high enzyme dosage of 75% by weight of fabric, for 8 hours. Generally, viscose proved to be easily degradable, followed by cotton and modal. The degree of hydrolysis was the least for Lyocell. Dry heat pretreatments exerted a lower influence on degradation rate than steam pretreatments which showed a distinct maximum at a steam temperature of 130°C. The hydrolysis rate varied strongly depending on treatment conditions and fibre type. Water retention values in treated substrates were changed by up to 20% of initial values.

Surface activation of dyed fabric for cellulase treatment

Surface activation of fabric made from cellulose fibres, such as viscose, lyocell, modal fibres and cotton, can be achieved by printing of a concentrated NaOH-containing paste. From the concentration of reducing sugars formed in solution, an increase in intensity of the cellulase hydrolysis by a factor of six to eight was observed, which was mainly concentrated at the activated parts of the fabric surface. This method of local activation is of particular interest for modification of materials that have been dyed with special processes to attain an uneven distribution of dyestuff within the yarn cross-section, e.g., indigo ring-dyed denim yarn for jeans production. Fabrics made from regenerated cellulose fibres were used as model substrate to express the effects of surface activation on indigo-dyed material. Wash-down experiments on indigo-dyed denim demonstrated significant colour removal from the activated surface at low overall weight loss of 4-5%. The method is of relevance for a more eco-friendly processing of jeans in the garment industry.

Hydrolysis of regenerated cellulose fibres for textile and other applications

Abstract: The use of steaming, drying, and alkalisation as pretreatment processes for regenerated cellulose – such as lyocell type fibres, viscose and modal fibres – is described. These processes overcome the problems caused by the size of the enzymes and the average pore diameters of regenerated cellulose fibres and allow cellulases to access the pores in the fibres so that hydrolysis is not restricted to the surface of the fibre. An efficient combination of pre-treatment steps and cellulase hydrolysis exhibits significant potential to produce new materials. Differences in crystal structure between native cellulose fibres and mercerised cotton and regenerated cellulose fibres are described and the factors that determine the effects of cellulase on substrates are outlined.