Claudia E. Henninger

What is sustainable fashion

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to examine what the term sustainable fashion means from the perspective of micro-organisations, experts, and consumers. Design/methodology/approach This research is qualitative in nature, utilising a multi-methods case study approach (semi-structured interviews, semiotics, questionnaires). Grounded analysis was applied to analyse the data. Findings Findings indicate that interpretation of sustainable fashion is context and person dependent. A matrix of key criteria provides the opportunity to find common elements. Research limitations/implications Due to the nature of this research the sample size is limited and may not be generalised. Data were collected in the UK and are limited to a geographical region. Practical implications An important implication is that defining sustainable fashion is vital in order to avoid challenges, such as greenwashing, which were faced in other industries that have a longer history in sustainable practices. Micro-organisations should take advantage of identifying key sustainable fashion criteria, which will enable them to promote their fashion collections more effectively. Social implications The criteria identified provide assurance for consumers that sustainable fashion is produced with social aspects in mind (fair wages, good working conditions). Originality/value The paper proposes a matrix that allows micro-organisations to clearly identify their collections as sustainable.

Consumption strategies and motivations of Chinese consumers: The case of UK sustainable luxury fashion

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to explore Chinese consumers’ motivations to purchase luxury fashion products in the UK and how far sustainability plays a role in the decision-making process, by extending the consumer typology of translators, exceptors, selectors. The authors further add an additional dimension to defining “luxury”. Design/methodology/approach An exploratory design utilising multiple qualitative research tools (semi-structured interviews, focus groups) provides the basis for this research. A grounded analysis was applied. Findings Findings map motivational drivers to purchasing luxury products and establish a fourth consumer type “indulgers”. Well-being further emerged as a key characteristic that defines “luxury”. Research limitations/implications The sample size is limited to Chinese consumers purchasing luxury fashion in the UK, and thus may not be generalised. Practical implications This research helps managers to understand the consumer types and underlying motivations of Chinese consumers purchasing luxury fashion in the UK. As one of the largest target groups, this research informs managers on how to further capitalise on this market. Originality/value This paper creates a new consumer typology that not only categorises consumers according to their consumption aspects, but further identifies their underlying motivations to do so.

Ethical consumption patterns and the link to purchasing sustainable fashion

This chapter investigates ethical consumption patterns and the link to purchasing sustainable fashion within the UK fashion industry. A quantitative research approach was utilised to investigate whether there is a relationship between the participants’ demographics and in how far they characterise themselves as being ethical through the CTR decision tree analysis. Age emerged as a major determinant, with work status further providing an indication on whether consumers are shopping at independent shops.

IMC, social media, and UK fashion micro-organisations

Purpose This paper aims to analyse the practical applicability of integrated marketing communications (IMC) to micro-organisations operating in the UK’s fashion industry, focusing specifically on the use of online platforms. Design/methodology/approach Qualitative methodological tools including semi-structured interviews, semiotics, Twitterfeed and Facebook analysis are used to examine to what extent micro-organisations apply IMC. Findings The findings suggest that these micro-organisations have a limited understanding of IMC. Although they utilise various channels, including social media, there is a disconnect between reaching the audience, understanding their needs and linking these aspects. External factors influence the use of various communication channels, leading to further fragmentation of sent messages. Research limitations/implications This research focuses on five micro-organisations within the fashion industry and thus may be seen as limited in nature. Whilst implications of the findings are discussed in terms of their impact to the wider industry and other sectors, this needs to be further researched. Practical implications Micro-organisations are underdeveloped in terms of both IMC and social media and require practical advice. Originality/value This study investigates two under-researched areas, IMC in micro-organisations and the use of social media within IMC, thereby moving forward our understanding of IMC in practice.

Challenging Current Fashion Business Models: Entrepreneurship Through Access-Based Consumption in the Second-Hand Luxury Garment Sector Within a Circular Economy

The purpose of this chapter is to investigate drivers of (non)participation in access-based consumption and the underpinning motives of becoming (or not) a micro-entrepreneur within the circular economy. Peer-to-peer platforms and drivers of (non)participation within the context of the UK’s second-hand luxury market are currently under-researched. This chapter is exploratory in nature and utilises a qualitative research approach. This study conducts semi-structured interviews with consumers from varied demographical backgrounds to gain an insight into consumers’ perceptions of access-based consumption and sustainability. Findings identified drivers of (non)participation and the emergences of a (potentially) new micro-entrepreneur. It is further explored whether this would be a feasible business model for the future with consumers actively buying into the access-based concept. Although findings cannot be generalised, the data provides thinking points for future research and investigates an economically significant context. Gaining an insight into this newly emerging trend could help retailers to capitalise on disruptive innovations and change consumer perceptions of partaking in access-based consumption. Thus far, drivers of (non)participation in the context of the UK’s second-hand luxury industry remain under-researched, and the economic significance of the sector indicates the necessity of this research.

The effects of rebranding on customer-based brand equity

The luxury fashion market is predicted to continue to grow rapidly, as millennial are becoming the new luxury consumers. Differentiation from competitors, attracting new consumers, and continuously maintaining brand equity is more challenging than ever, especially for global brands. The purpose of this study is to explore the drivers and process of rebranding and its influence on brand awareness and customer-based brand equity within the luxury fashion market. This study adopts a multi-method qualitative approach, employing semi-structured interviews with practitioners, consumer-based focus groups, and semiotics - in order to measure the impact of rebranding processes on customer-based brand equity. The findings outline the most frequent drivers and the crucial steps of a rebranding process for the luxury market. Radical and moderate changes can be made to the brand image and further support customer-based brand equity, yet, it is vital to remain true to the original heritage and brands DNA.

Introduction to Vintage Luxury Fashion—Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade

This chapter is introductory in nature and provides the reader with an overview of how the idea for this publication emerged. It sets the scene of the context and clearly outlines the significance of this publication. It moves onto providing brief outlines of all contributions and how they link.

Access-Based Consumption: A New Business Model for Luxury and Secondhand Fashion Business?

This chapter investigates the concept of access-based consumption (ABC) within the context of the UK’s secondhand luxury fashion industry. ABC has received increased interest and implies temporarily being able to use and experience a good/service without making a transaction that transfers ownership of goods/services. A proliferation of business models has emerged that embrace the concept of ABC, all of which share one communality: a consumption experience on the consumer side. This chapter presents various forms of ABC models and critically evaluates their relevance within the context of secondhand luxury and vintage fashion. This topic is new and fills a gap in the current retail fashion literature, particularly from a sustainability perspective. Sustainability, having developed as a megatrend in recent years, is having significant impacts on the retail fashion landscape. In sum, these business models suggest that the ultimate desire of consumers is moving from ownership towards experience. This chapter seeks to contribute to knowledge by investigating an emerging phenomenon within an under-researched context. More specifically, ABC models within the creative and cultural industries are examined. Furthermore, this research explores the business motivations of establishing an ABC model, as well as an insight into consumer motivations and shopper orientations for renting and swapping merchandise in a luxury fashion context.

Perceived Brand Image of Luxury Fashion and Vintage Fashion—An Insight into Chinese Millennials’ Attitudes and Motivations

China has seen a dramatic increase in sales figures of luxury items, which accounted for 20% of global sales in 2015. The sheer purchasing power of this emerging economy makes it an attractive destination for luxury fashion brands seeking to expand their businesses. Young Chinese consumers are the key target audience for luxury fashion, as their ability to travel to the West further exposes them to fashion brands such as Hermes, Chanel, and LV. Purchasing, owning, and wearing luxury fashion has become a statement in the Chinese industry, which can be linked to motivational reasons such as value consciousness, susceptibility to normative influence, and the need for uniqueness. Vintage fashion has seen a dramatic increase in popularity in the Western Hemisphere and slowly, but steadily spilled over to China. Luxury brands are developing vintage lines, whilst new vintage stores start to emerge across various Chinese cities. The latter expand rapidly and gain popularity, especially among the younger consumers (millennials). This research focuses on Chinese millennials and their perceptions of luxury fashion and vintage fashion in terms of brand image. This exploratory research takes on a qualitative approach by interviewing 15 Chinese consumers, both male and female, who have experience in purchasing luxury and vintage fashion. This research contributes to knowledge as it explores the vintage fashion context in China, which thus far is under-researched. Practically, this research contributes by providing suggestions to retailers on how to enhance their brand image and target millennials more successfully.

Introduction to Sustainability in Fashion

This chapter provides an insight for the idea of the book and a brief overview of sustainability in the fashion industry. The chapter further introduces the content of the book and finishes with acknowledgements.