Darko Ujević

Coated Textile Materials

Coated textile materials consisting of woven or knitted fabric as a basic component increasingly represent an indispensable product for a specific purpose. The artificial polymer material used for the purposes of this paper consists of the substrate and coating. Polyurethane polymers are mostly used for coating because they enable numerous applications, considerably more numerous than others. They can be used as furniture upholstery, as medical devices, in industry, as protective clothing against rain, wind etc., in household, sports etc. Coated textile materials as relatively new products are increasingly developed every day. Since new materials are constantly designed for specific purposes, they are often unknown in terms of quality. Thus, there is a necessity for intensive investigations in order to obtain a higher quality, more environmentally friendly and more suitable product.This chapter will deal with basic properties and advantages of coated materials consisting of a woven or knitted fabric as a basic component. The complexity of making structural coated materials and their design require a fundamental analysis. The selection of raw materials according to components, thickness of components according to layers and manufacturing method depends on the purpose of the final product. Due to the specific use of coated materials the materials used for furniture upholstering with a woven fabric as the basic component and for protective clothing with a knitted fabric as the basic component will be described.

Croatian anthropometric system meeting the European Union

Purpose – Anthropometry as one of anthropology methods is concerned with the measurement of the human body and determining the relationship of the size and proportions of the human body. Aims to outline the main features of the Croatian anthropometric system (HAS).Design/methodology/approach – The paper provides a description of the major characteristics included in HAS, the STIRP project supported by the Ministry of Science, Education and Sports by means of the HITRA program.Findings – In its TEST subprogram, HAS includes the first systematic anthropometric measurement in all Croatian counties and in the city of Zagreb. The objective of HAS is to determine a proposal of the new size system of clothing and footwear. The paper describes major characteristics included: anthropometric measurements and target points, part of practical measurements, survey of measurements based on age groups and instruments used for these purposes, notes about field measurements and HAS users.Practical implications – The imple...

Research of 3D Body Models Computer Adjustment Based on Anthropometric Data Determined by Laser 3D Scanner

The paper presents the investigation of the computer 3D body model adjustment possibilities for the implementation in the 3D CAD system for computer-aided design and garment simulation. In this context, three methods of connecting data on measurements and body shape found by using 3D body scanner and 2D/3D CAD system for computer- aided design and garment simulation were investigated. The first method refers to the research of the possibilities of interactive avatar adjustment in the CAD system based on the analysis of the anthropometric characteristics of the body and measurements found by using a 3D body scanner. The second method involves establishing a systematic record of body measurements found by using a 3D body scanner as the input record format in a 3D CAD system, which is used for automatic avatar adjustment. The third method involves creating a computer record of the body model using the program for 3D scanning, that is suitable for the direct implementation in the 3D CAD system for garment simulation.

Sizing system for girls aged 13–20 years based on body types

Body shape and size reached by an adult human being are the results of complex growth processes and development occurring during childhood and youth. To develop a suitable size system, anthropometric measurements of the selected population should be carried out. For this purpose, a sample of 4071 girls aged 13–20 years in Croatia was measured. As the basis for a new method of clothing size system, the system and methods defined in the standards HRN EN 13402 (1st–3rd parts) were used. Factor and two-stage cluster analyses were performed in this research and as a result three girl body types were obtained. Also 56 sizes for a girl’s lower body with a coverage rate of 77.7% were determined.

Shield effect of functional interlining fabric

Abstract Electromagnetic interference (EMI) have become very serious in a variety of different electronic equipments, such as personal computers (frequency at several GHz), mobile devices (0.9 – 2.4 GHz) and similar. This imposes the need for setting boundaries for EM emission of electric and electronic devices in order to minimize the possibility of interference with radio and wireless communications. Functional textiles can offer protective properties against EM radiation. The aim of this study is to investigate the degree of protection against EM radiation provided by polyamide copper-coated interlining fabric before and after dry cleaning treatment. EM protection efficiency of the interlining functional fabric is explored on both sides at the frequencies of 0.9; 1.8; 2.1 and 2.4 GHz. The results obtained have shown that the interlining fabric has good protective properties against EM radiation, but after dry cleaning, treatment reduction is observed. Scanning electron microscopy micrographs of the interlining surface confirms shield effect decline due to degradation and firing of the copper layers during the process of dry cleaning.

Determination of Regional Presence of Male Body Types as a Prerequisite for Improving Garment Manufacture

Abstract Garment manufacture and garment fit to physique is a never-ending research subject. The human body is subject to changes that are reflected in its shape and body measurements, and appear in all periods of life. Monitoring the changes and gaining insight into the actual amounts of physical dimensions of an individual population unfold numerous opportunities to affect clothing design and manufacturing. In accordance with the issues mentioned above, a research was carried out to determine male body types of the Croatian male population. Male body types for a specific clothing size determine waist and hip girth, which completes the information on main body measurement amounts. Furthermore, the types of bodies are prescribed by the European Standard 14302-3 and, accordingly, in the observed sample, the presence of a particular type is determined with respect to regional affiliation and age. This study was conducted on a sample of 4090 test subjects divided into five regions, ages 20 to 85 years, divided into seven age groups. By statistical analysis of the results, that is, by the methods of descriptive statistics, the values of physical dimensions necessary for this research were determined.

Determination of a System of Women’s Clothing Sizes in the Goransko-primorska County of the Republic of Croatia

The aim of this work is to improve the system of clothing sizes by the determining body measurements of adult women in the Goransko-primorska County of the Republic of Croatia. The system of clothing sizes was determined based on the results of anthropometric investigations of a specific population. Sorting data on body measurements results in their grouping in garment sizes, and based on this data, size-charts with significant differences in body shape and body proportions of a certain group of the population are created. In the system of garment sizes certain body dimensions define a garment size and create a scale determined by the standard. The standard characterizes body shape based on two dimensions of measurements, whereby the first is the basic (bust girth), and the second a dependent variable (body height). This study was conducted on a sample of 1,104 subjects aged 20-85 years classified into seven age groups. Statistical analysis of the results, i.e. principal component analysis, was used to determine garment sizes and the presence of certain categories of them in the population measured in the Goransko-primorska County of the Republic of Croatia.

The Impact of Dry and Wet Cleaning on Fabric Electromagnetic Field Shield Effect

The aim of this research is to investigate shield effect properties of the fabrics with inox yarns included in the construction, which are used for special professional garments and should protect from electromagnetic microwave irradiation. The investigation was done prior to and after the professional care procedures of dry and wet cleaning in ten cleaning cycles. Shield effect measurements were done on the face and on the back of the fabric, weftwise and warpwise, prior to and after the first, third, fifth, seventh and tenth cycles of dry and wet cleaning, at the frequencies from 0.9 to 2.4 GHz. The results obtained indicated that shield effect of the fabric tested was reduced after professional care procedures, especially so after 5 cycles. The investigations also revealed that shield effect could be considerably enhanced if the inox yarns were incorporated into the fabric in the direction of the warp.

Joining of technical textiles with stringent seam demands

Seam has a decisive influence on the quality and usage of each product. Sewn seam is usually the most critical position for the permeability of the material, but not in case of strength, so its use is indispensable where seam tightness is not a requirement. Materials whose permeability must be zero are joined by high-frequency or thermal welding using hot air, or other welding and bonding methods. Seam rigidity, especially in folded places, results in weakening the joint and it is important where possible to avoid it in folds. Some of the problems of sewn seam and permeability of natural materials were emphasized. Special prominence was given to the essential properties of multi-layer fabrics with woven fabric as a basic component for use in tarpaulins, tents, awnings, sailboats, aircraft, materials for protective clothing etc. Their diversity and complexity in achieving the quality of the seams was emphasized. Properly selected material, corresponding seam, matching thread, corresponding needle, seam strength and elasticity, its tightness and durability play an important role in manufacturing tarpaulins, tents, awnings, parachutes, sails, boat covers, protective clothing etc. Basic properties of materials with limited values were emphasized, and an example of experimental studying some selected materials was given. Mechanical properties in the warp and weft direction without seams and with seams used for a specific material and for a specific purpose were investigated. Specific conclusions were drawn and some improvement solutions were proposed. Due to their complexity and presence of several different materials multilayer materials require the constant development of seam joining es efficiently as possible. According to previous studies it can be seen that there is a joining problem, and that the joint is often the weakest link in the utility value of the material. In this chapter, performance of individual seams on various materials was studied. Selecting the seam with best properties, and its further improvement in accordance with the use of materials is necessary in order to be in conformity with standards. Information provided from various sources on the subject of technical textiles with strict seam demands was studied.