David Arora

Desert Truffles of the African Kalahari: Ecology, Ethnomycology, and Taxonomy

Desert Truffles of the African Kalahari: Ecology, Ethnomycology, and Taxonomy. The Khoisan people of the Kalahari Desert have used truffles for centuries. The extreme conditions in which desert truffles grow means that they fruit only sporadically when adequate and properly distributed rainfall occurs, and then only where suitable soil and mycorrhizal hosts occur. Truffles are hunted in the Kalahari by men and women; they look for cracks in the soil, often humped, caused by expansion of the truffles, which are then extracted with hands or digging sticks. The truffles are eaten raw or cooked (boiled, roasted over fire, or buried in hot ashes). Commercial harvest of Kalahari truffles has increased in the last decade and the quantities harvested have been observed to be declining where livestock have been concentrated.

The Houses That Matsutake Built1

The Houses That Matsutake Built. In the mountains of northwest Yunnan, China, a valuable mushroom, matsutake or song rong (Tricholoma matsutake) was commodified in the 1980s. Since that time, it has been exported in large quantities to Japan. The sale of matsutake now contributes more to the income of Shangri-la County (Diqing Autonomous Tibetan Prefecture) than any other crop, including timber and livestock. During the 1980s and 1990s, villagers in this remote region used their mushroom earnings to build spacious, beautiful new houses in the traditional local (Kham) style, and in some cases to buy motor vehicles or open businesses. In villages with access to productive matsutake habitat, virtually every household was able to build a new house; entire villages were transformed. During the 1990s, several villages developed locally based management regimes to enhance production and to address the problems and conflicts that arose from the harvest of such a valuable product. More recently, government agencies and NGOs have played a highly visible role in promoting “sustainable” harvest policies. The implications of their involvement are briefly examined and the future of matsutake harvest in Yunnan is discussed.

The Grace of the Flood: Classification and Use of Wild Mushrooms among the Highland Maya of Chiapas

The Grace of the Flood: Classification and Use of Wild Mushrooms among the Highland Maya of Chiapas. The highland Maya of Chiapas in southern Mexico gather, consume, and sell a wide variety of mushrooms during the rainy season from June to November. The mushrooms are prized as a valuable source of nutrition and income, and a few species are used medicinally. No evidence exists for current or historical use of hallucinogenic mushrooms, though descriptions of mushroom intoxication suggest nonspecific knowledge about the presence of psychoactive properties in some mushrooms. Free-listing exercises elicited 50 or more mushroom names in each of the two main highland Mayan languages, Tzeltal and Tzotzil. Identification exercises using mushroom photographs permitted a preliminary assignment of mycological species, genera, or families to many of the local mushroom names collected in free-lists. Field identification during the rainy reason further emphasized the concordance of many local names with distinctive mycological groups or taxa. Mushroom sketches made by informants revealed the detailed knowledge many of the highland Maya maintain about mushroom morphology, ecology, and diversity. Mayan mushroom classification provides additional evidence for several of the universally presumed principles of ethnobiological classification. However, in contrast to their classification of plants, the Mayan system of mushroom classification is mostly concerned with edible and other useful species. (One such species, previously unknown to science, is described here.) Most species with no cultural use are presumed by the highland Maya to be poisonous and are relegated to a wastebasket category known locally as “stupid” or “crazy” mushrooms.

A New, Commercially Valuable Chanterelle Species, Cantharellus californicus sp. nov., Associated with Live Oak in California, USA

A New, Commercially Valuable Chanterelle Species, Cantharellus californicus sp. nov., Associated with Live Oak in California, USA. The prominent golden chanterelle of California’s oak woodlands is characterized as a new species, Cantharellus californicus sp. nov., using molecular and morphological data. Our observations indicate that it is the largest Cantharellus species in the world, with individual sporocraps commonly weighing 1/2 kilogram (kg) (or 1 pound) or more when mature. Other Cantharellus species in California are compared and evaluated, including their known ectomycorrhizal hosts. The California oak chanterelle is an economically valuable species, and some observations on its commercial harvest are presented.

California Porcini: Three New Taxa, Observations on Their Harvest, and the Tragedy of No Commons1

California Porcini: Three New Taxa, Observations on their Harvest, and the Tragedy of No Commons. Seven species of California porcini (Boletus, sect. Boletus) are recognized, including three new taxa that are culturally and economically significant: B. rex-veris sp. nov., B. regineus sp. nov., and B. edulis var. grandedulis var. nov. The three new taxa have been intensively gathered during the last century by Italian immigrants, and B. rex-veris sp. nov. more recently by southeast Asian immigrants as well as by long-time rural residents. B. rex-veris sp. nov. is restricted to inland mountains while the other two are widely distributed, and are abundant in California’s heavily populated coastal zone. In the 1990s, reflecting the preservationist policies of mainstream environmental organizations, many park authorities and land management agencies in coastal California closed public lands to mushroom gathering. Organized attempts to establish legal, limited gathering in a few parks were almost entirely unsuccessful. The result is that it is illegal to pick porcini on nearly all public lands over a 6,000-square-mile area, even though they grow prolifically in coastal California. Many of coastal California’s porcini are picked anyway by those willing to risk being apprehended and fined. In response to the official intolerance for mushroom gathering, an entire generation of mushroom hunters has grown up practicing the activity in secret.

A Study of Cultural Bias in Field Guide Determinations of Mushroom Edibility Using the Iconic Mushroom, Amanita muscaria, as an Example 1

A Study of Cultural Bias in Field Guide Determinations of Mushroom Edibility Using the Iconic Mushroom,Amanita muscaria, as an Example. Mushroom field guides teach identification skills as well as provide information on the edible or toxic qualities of each species of wild mushroom. As such they function as modern-day village elders for an increasingly urban, nature-ignorant population. This paper identifies underlying cultural bias in the determination of mushroom edibility in English-language field guides, using the iconic mushroom, Amanita muscaria, as an example. We explore a selection of ethnographic and medical texts that report the use of A. muscaria as a food, and we accept parboiling as a safe method of detoxifying it for the dinner table. Mushroom field guides, however, almost universally label the mushroom as poisonous. We discuss the cultural underpinnings and literary form of mushroom field guides and demonstrate that they work within a mostly closed intellectual system that ironically shares many of the same limitations of cultural bias found in traditional folk cultures, but with the pretense of being modern and scientific.

Mushrooms and Economic Botany1

The tendency to use the word “mushroom” pejoratively persists widely in modern English. To paraphrase the late Stephen Jay Gould, prosperity and the arts “flower” while urban crime “mushrooms.” Many people in the United States are familiar with the schoolyard rhyme, “There’s a fungus among us/And we must stamp it out!!” How different is the sense of awe and wonder expressed in a Nahuatl saying from Morelos, Mexico: Tlateguini, xcaguigan, in moguitlaxcactia in nanagame—“It is thundering, listen you all, the mushrooms are putting on their shoes” (de Avila and Guzman 1980:312). Jared Diamond (1989:19), who has spent years documenting the detailed botanical and zoological knowledge of the Fore people of New Guinea, admits to a sudden sense of apprehension when his hosts served him forest mushrooms:

Xiao Ren Ren: The “Little People” of Yunnan

Xiao ren ren are widely known in Yunnan province, China, at least at the mid-elevations where Han Chinese and Yi people predominate. The phrase means “little men” or “little people” (xiao, little; ren, man or person, the redundancy being an idiom to indicate lots of men or people, which the standard plural form renmen does not necessarily connote). Xiao ren ren are typically glimpsed or experienced after dining on inadvertently undercooked, blue-staining boletes of uncertain identity. The people of Yunnan seem almost universally amused by the xiao ren ren rather than fearing them or revering them.