David P. Callaghan

Flow interaction with dynamic vegetation patches: Implications for biogeomorphic evolution of a tidal landscape

Feedback between vegetation growth, water flow, and landform is important for the biogeomorphic evolution of many landscapes, such as tidal marshes, alluvial rivers, and hillslopes. While experimental studies often focus on flow reduction within static homogeneous vegetation, we concentrate on flow acceleration around and between dynamically growing vegetation patches that colonize an initially bare landscape, with specific application to Spartina anglica, a pioneer of intertidal flats. Spartina patches were placed in a large-scale flow facility of 16 × 26 m, simulating the growth of two vegetation patches by increasing the patch diameter (D = 1–3 m) and decreasing the interpatch distance (d = 2.3–0 m). We quantified that the amount of flow acceleration next to vegetation patches, and the distance from the patch where maximum flow acceleration occurs, increases with increasing patch size. In between the patches, the accelerated flow pattern started to interact as soon as D/d ≥ 0.43–0.67. As the patches grew further, the flow acceleration increased until D/d ≥ 6.67–10, from which the flow acceleration between the patches was suppressed, and the two patches started to act as one. These findings are in accordance with theory on flow around and between nonpermeable structures; however, the threshold D/d values found here for permeable vegetation patches are higher than those for nonpermeable structures. The reported flow interactions with dynamic vegetation patches will be essential to further understanding of the larger-scale biogeomorphic evolution of landscapes formed by flowing water, such as tidal flats, floodplain rivers, and hillslopes.

Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves

A simple method is provided for calculating transport rates of not too fine (d(50) greater than or equal to 0.20 mm) sand under sheet flow conditions. The method consists of a Meyer-Peter-type transport formula operating on a time-varying Shields parameter, which accounts for both acceleration-asymmetry and boundary layer streaming. While velocity moment formulae, e.g.., = Constant x calibrated against U-tube measurements, fail spectacularly under some real waves (Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., McLean, S.R., Vincent, C., 2000. Near-bed sand transport mechanisms under waves. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, New York, pp. 3263-3276, Fig. 12), the new method predicts the real wave observations equally well. The reason that the velocity moment formulae fail under these waves is partly the presence of boundary layer streaming and partly the saw-tooth asymmetry, i.e., the front of the waves being steeper than the back. Waves with saw-tooth asymmetry may generate a net landward sediment transport even if = 0, because of the more abrupt acceleration under the steep front. More abrupt accelerations are associated with thinner boundary layers and greater pressure gradients for a given velocity magnitude. The two real wave effects are incorporated in a model of the form Q(s)(t) = Q(s)[theta(t)] rather than Q(S)(t) = Q(S)[u(infinity)(t)], i.e., by expressing the transport rate in terms of an instantaneous Shields parameter rather than in terms of the free stream velocity, and accounting for both streaming and accelerations in the 0(t) calculations. The instantaneous friction velocities u(*)(t) and subsequently theta(t) are calculated as follows. Firstly, a linear filter incorporating the grain roughness friction factor f(2.5) and a phase angle phi(tau) is applied to u(infinity)(t). This delivers u(*)(t) which is used to calculate an instantaneous grain roughness Shields parameter theta(2.5)(t). Secondly, a constant bed shear stress is added which corresponds to the streaming related bed shear stress -rho (

Impact of sea-level rise and coral mortality on the wave dynamics and wave forces on barrier reefs

) over bar((u) over tilde(w) over tilde)(infinity) . The method can be applied to any u(infinity)(t) time series, but further experimental validation is recommended before application to conditions that differ strongly from the ones considered below. The method is not recommended for rippled beds or for sheet flow with typical prototype wave periods and d(50) < 0.20 turn. In such scenarios, time lags related to vertical sediment movement become important, and these are not considered by the present model

A Risk-informed Approach to Coastal Zone Management

A one-dimensional wave model was used to investigate the reef top wave dynamics across a large suite of idealized reef-lagoon profiles, representing barrier coral reef systems under different sea-level rise (SLR) scenarios. The modeling shows that the impacts of SLR vary spatially and are strongly influenced by the bathymetry of the reef and coral type. A complex response occurs for the wave orbital velocity and forces on corals, such that the changes in the wave dynamics vary reef by reef. Different wave loading regimes on massive and branching corals also leads to contrasting impacts from SLR. For many reef bathymetries, wave orbital velocities increase with SLR and cyclonic wave forces are reduced for certain coral species. These changes may be beneficial to coral health and colony resilience and imply that predicting SLR impacts on coral reefs requires careful consideration of the reef bathymetry and the mix of coral species.

Identifying threshold concepts: case study of an open catchment hydraulics course

Abstract Economic and population growth have led to an unprecedented increase in the value at risk in coastal zones over the last century. To avoid excessive future losses, particularly in the light of projected climate change impacts, coastal zone managers have various instruments at their disposal. These primarily concern land-use planning (establishing buffer zones) and engineering solutions (beach nourishment and coastal protection). In this paper, we focus on risk mitigation through the implementation of buffer zones (setback lines). Foregoing land-use opportunities in coastal regions and protecting coasts is costly, but so is damage caused by inundation and storm erosion. Defining appropriate setback lines for land-use planning purposes is a balancing act. It is, however, unclear what level of protection is facilitated by current approaches for defining setback lines, and whether this is, at least from an economic perspective, sufficient. In this paper, we present an economic model to determine which setback lines would be optimal from an economic perspective. The outcomes of the model provide a useful reference point in the political debate about the acceptability of risk in coastal zones. The main conclusions are: (i) that it is useful to define setback lines on the basis of their exceedance probabilities; (ii) that the exceedance probability of an economically efficient setback line will typically be in the order of magnitude of 1/100 per year; (iii) that it is important to distinguish between situations in which morphological conditions are stationary and non-stationary; and (iv) that long-term uncertainties (eg. due to climate change) influence the exceedance probability of efficient setback lines but only to a limited extent. The economic model stresses the need for a probabilistic approach to beach erosion modelling. The recently-developed Probabilistic Coastal Setback Line was applied at Narrabeen beach, Sydney, Australia, to illustrate how economically optimal setback lines can be derived for specific sites.

Probabilistic modeling of wave climate and predicting dune erosion

The Threshold Concept Framework is used to initiate a dialogue on an empirically supported pedagogy that focuses on students’ conceptual understanding required for solving application-based problems. The present paper uses a triangulation approach to identify the threshold concept in a third-year undergraduate civil engineering course on open channel hydraulics. Evidence from teachers, students, and assessment data point to ‘critical flow’ as the threshold concept – a concept that is transformative, integrative, and troublesome. Identifying the threshold concept by engaging various course stakeholders in a dialogue about conceptual understanding and capabilities makes learning visible for all participants in the process. Implementing this approach can result in an empirically driven rationale for adjusting pedagogies and assessments to foster enhanced student learning outcomes.

Resilience of branching and massive corals to wave loading under sea level rise--a coupled computational fluid dynamics-structural analysis.

ABSTRACT Li, F., van Gelder, P.H.A.J.M., Callaghan, D.P., Jongejan, R.B., den Hijer, C. and Ranasinghe, R., 2013. Probabilistic modelling of wave climate and predicting dune erosion considering sea level rise Knowledge about future oceanographic events will assist governments to better manage risk in coastal zones, a crucial task in the light of projected sea level rise, population growth and economic development. In this study, a 31-year data set of deep water wave climate parameters and bathymetry measurements (yearly cross-shore transect surveys) at Noordwijk, the Netherlands, were analyzed (1) to jointly estimate storm events variates of deep water wave conditions, and (2) to probabilistically compute dune erosion volume and the resulting coastal retreat distance with the simulated wave climate and plausible local sea level rise scenarios by 2100. The probabilistic coastline retreat models were applied and adjusted to the study site. Based on the outcomes of this application, a modeling technique can be established to propose a framework for probabilistically describing the coastal risk along the Dutch coast.

Pulsing and circulation in rip current system

Measurements of coral structural strength are coupled with a fluid dynamics-structural analysis to investigate the resilience of coral to wave loading under sea level rise and a typical Great Barrier Reef lagoon wave climate. The measured structural properties were used to determine the wave conditions and flow velocities that lead to structural failure. Hydrodynamic modelling was subsequently used to investigate the type of the bathymetry where coral is most vulnerable to breakage under cyclonic wave conditions, and how sea level rise (SLR) changes this vulnerability. Massive corals are determined not to be vulnerable to wave induced structural damage, whereas branching corals are susceptible at wave induced orbital velocities exceeding 0.5m/s. Model results from a large suite of idealised bathymetry suggest that SLR of 1m or a loss of skeleton strength of order 25% significantly increases the area of reef flat where branching corals are exposed to damaging wave induced flows.

Impact of sea-level rise on cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef island beaches under modal and cyclonic conditions.

Current pulsations from a longshore bar and trough rip system located on the eastern coast of Moreton Island, Australia are presented. These pulsations occur over 10-20minute intervals through the rip system and are correlated to both water level gradients and wave energy variations. The field measurements suggest that rip current pulsations can be driven by fluctuating mass transport over the shore parallel inner bar.

What to do with a Threshold Concept

A one-dimensional wave model is combined with an analytical sediment transport model to investigate the likely influence of sea-level rise on net cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef and lagoon island beaches. The modelling considers if changes in the nearshore wave height and wave period in the lagoon induced by different water levels over the reef flat are likely to lead to net offshore or onshore movement of sediment. The results indicate that the effects of SLR on net sediment movement are highly variable and controlled by the bathymetry of the reef and lagoon. A significant range of reef-lagoon bathymetry, and notably shallow and narrow reefs, appears to lead hydrodynamic conditions and beaches that are likely to be stable or even accrete under SLR. Loss of reef structural complexity, particularly on the reef flat, increases the chance of sediment transport away from beaches and offshore.