David Simmonds

Velocity predictions for shoaling and breaking waves with a Boussinesq-type model

Abstract In this paper, the performance of a 1-D Boussinesq model is evaluated against laboratory data for its ability to predict surf zone velocity moments. Wave evolution over a plane beach and a complex bathymetry both extending into the surf-zone is examined for six cases. For the plane beach, these comprise two cases, a spilling and a plunging cnoidal wave. For the complex bathymetry, these comprise four cases of longer and short wavelengths (spilling and plunging breakers), with regular and irregular periodicity. The model evaluation places emphasis on parameters of the wave field that could be used for the prediction of sediment transport; orbital velocity, undertow, velocity skewness, kurtosis and asymmetry. It is found that, despite an overestimation of the depth-averaged horizontal velocity in the regular waves cases, the predicted higher order velocity moments and undertow are in good agreement with the laboratory data. A bispectral analysis demonstrates that the nonlinear transfers of energy amongst the low order harmonics are well reproduced, but energy exchanges with the higher harmonics are less well predicted. As a result, the model handles velocity moments better in the shorter wave tests than in the long wave cases where triad interactions are stronger. Of the four parameters describing wave breaking, the model behaviour is most sensitive to the critical wave front slope φ B , especially with regard to velocity skewness and kurtosis predictions. It is also found that increasing the thickness of the surface roller for the case of plunging breakers improves the models performance.

STRAND: A Model for Longshore Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone

In this paper we report on the development and performance of an engineering model, STRAND which has the aim of predicting longshore movement of coarse sediment above the still water line of steep beaches. The model assumes that this transport is driven by swash run-up at the edge of an unsaturated inner surfzone and uses Nielsens (1992) formulation for sediment transport rate. The hydrodynamic sub-model is shown to agree well with field measurements of swash run-up and swash period. We argue that consideration of interactions between subsequent swash events implies that a monotonic relationship between transport rate and incident wave period is inappropriate. Bulk longshore transport rates are shown to compare reasonably with previous estimates from field studies in the UK and accounts for up to 50% of the net longshore flux. Agreement of this simplified model with one of the best available laboratory data sets, Kamphuis (1991a,b), is very good indeed. However, new laboratory and field data are required before stronger conclusions can be drawn.

THE INFLUENCE OF LONG WAVES ON MACROTIDAL BEACH MORPHOLOGY

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

Innovative Engineering Solutions and Best Practices to Mitigate Coastal Risk

Engineering solutions are widely used for the mitigation of flood and erosion risks and have new challenges because of the expected effects induced by climate change in particular sea level rise and increase of storminess. This chapter describes both active methods of mitigation based on the reduction of the incident wave energy, such as the use of wave energy converters, floating breakwaters and artificial reefs, and passive methods, consisting of increase in overtopping resistance of dikes, improvement of resilience of breakwaters against failures, and the use of beach nourishment as well as tailored dredging operations.Existing coastal management and defense approaches are not well suited to meet the challenges of climate change and related uncertanities. Professionals in this field need a more dynamic, systematic and multidisciplinary approach. Written by an international group of experts, Coastal Risk Management in a Changing Climate provides innovative, multidisciplinary best practices for mitigating the effects of climate change on coastal structures. Based on the Theseus program, the book includes eight study sites across Europe, with specific attention to the most vulnerable coastal environments such as deltas, estuaries and wetlands, where many large cities and industrial areas are located. * Integrated risk assessment tools for considering the effects of climate change and related uncertainties* Presents latest insights on coastal engineering defenses* Provides integrated guidelines for setting up optimal mitigation measures* Provides directly applicable tools for the design of mitigation measures* Highlights socio-economic perspectives in coastal mitigation

Chapter 3 – Innovative Engineering Solutions and Best Practices to Mitigate Coastal Risk

Engineering solutions are widely used for the mitigation of flood and erosion risks and have new challenges because of the expected effects induced by climate change in particular sea level rise and increase of storminess. This chapter describes both active methods of mitigation based on the reduction of the incident wave energy, such as the use of wave energy converters, floating breakwaters and artificial reefs, and passive methods, consisting of increase in overtopping resistance of dikes, improvement of resilience of breakwaters against failures, and the use of beach nourishment as well as tailored dredging operations.Existing coastal management and defense approaches are not well suited to meet the challenges of climate change and related uncertanities. Professionals in this field need a more dynamic, systematic and multidisciplinary approach. Written by an international group of experts, Coastal Risk Management in a Changing Climate provides innovative, multidisciplinary best practices for mitigating the effects of climate change on coastal structures. Based on the Theseus program, the book includes eight study sites across Europe, with specific attention to the most vulnerable coastal environments such as deltas, estuaries and wetlands, where many large cities and industrial areas are located. * Integrated risk assessment tools for considering the effects of climate change and related uncertainties* Presents latest insights on coastal engineering defenses* Provides integrated guidelines for setting up optimal mitigation measures* Provides directly applicable tools for the design of mitigation measures* Highlights socio-economic perspectives in coastal mitigation

Coastal Risk Management in a Changing Climate

Engineering solutions are widely used for the mitigation of flood and erosion risks and have new challenges because of the expected effects induced by climate change in particular sea level rise and increase of storminess. This chapter describes both active methods of mitigation based on the reduction of the incident wave energy, such as the use of wave energy converters, floating breakwaters and artificial reefs, and passive methods, consisting of increase in overtopping resistance of dikes, improvement of resilience of breakwaters against failures, and the use of beach nourishment as well as tailored dredging operations.Existing coastal management and defense approaches are not well suited to meet the challenges of climate change and related uncertanities. Professionals in this field need a more dynamic, systematic and multidisciplinary approach. Written by an international group of experts, Coastal Risk Management in a Changing Climate provides innovative, multidisciplinary best practices for mitigating the effects of climate change on coastal structures. Based on the Theseus program, the book includes eight study sites across Europe, with specific attention to the most vulnerable coastal environments such as deltas, estuaries and wetlands, where many large cities and industrial areas are located. * Integrated risk assessment tools for considering the effects of climate change and related uncertainties* Presents latest insights on coastal engineering defenses* Provides integrated guidelines for setting up optimal mitigation measures* Provides directly applicable tools for the design of mitigation measures* Highlights socio-economic perspectives in coastal mitigation