Edward Newton

Empirical research on supply chain management: a critical review and recommendations

Despite the growing interest in supply chain management (SCM), our understanding of the subject issue is still limited, largely due to inadequate attention being placed to theory building. To address this problem, this paper highlights some major weaknesses of the extant literature with respect to the conceptualization, operationalization, and modelling of SCM, identifies potential causes underlying these shortcomings, and gives some recommendations to improve theory development in this area. Specifically, it demonstrates that (1) the SCM construct has been perceived narrowly from the perspective of a particular traditional function of a firm; (2) the construct validity is threatened due to inadequate pre-operational explication of the content domain, among other operationalization problems; and (3) the dominant conceptual SCM models focus mainly on the practices-performance relationship, overlooking the context-practices relationship. A greater advance in theory development is possible if researchers adopt a process-based view of SCM, develop conceptual SCM models based on a context-practices-performance framework, and synthesize theories and research of SCM and those of related fields such as organization studies.

The process and consequences of supply chain virtualization

The recent rapid commercialization and adoption of Internet technologies has driven a process of supply chain virtualization, transforming conventional work practices across organizations. In an effort to provide a better understanding of this emerging phenomenon, this paper presents three key elements of supply chain virtualization, including: the formation of virtual trading communities; the emergence of virtual knowledge communities; and the relocation and integration of inter‐organizational business processes in the cyberspace. The transformations and consequences of virtualization are illustrated in the context of the Hong Kong textile and clothing industry. The experience of Hong Kong suggests that supply chain virtualization has propelled a structural change in buyers‐intermediaries‐sellers relationships, called for a novel approach to knowledge management, and accelerated internationalization of small‐ and medium‐sized enterprises. Managers and policy makers are advised to adopt new mindsets and practices in the face of these challenges.

Application of laser treatment for fashion design

In this study, surface treatment using laser engraving for fashion design on polyester fabric was investigated. The properties, such as weight, thickness, tear strength, tensile strength, colour difference and optical microscope view, of original and treated materials were evaluated. The results demonstrate that this treatment is a feasible design method for fashion design and it can engrave different motifs to change the appearance of the garment. In addition, this treatment’s approach differs from ordinary design methods as there is no discharge of polluted water, it gives a fine appearance to the garment and can create added value.

The effect of added fullness and ventilation holes in T-shirt design on thermal comfort.

This paper reports on an experimental investigation on the effect of added fullness and ventilation holes in T-shirt design on clothing comfort measured in terms of thermal insulation and moisture vapour resistance. Four T-shirts in four different sizes (S, M, L, XL) were cut under the traditional sizing method while another (F-1) was cut with specially added fullness to create a ‘flared’ drape. A thermal manikin ‘Walter’ was used to measure the thermal insulation and moisture vapour resistance of the T-shirts in a chamber with controlled temperature, relative humidity and air velocity. The tests included four conditions: manikin standing still in the no-wind and windy conditions and walking in the no-wind and windy condition. It was found that adding fullness in the T-shirt design (F-1) to create the ‘flared’ drape can significantly reduce the T-shirts thermal insulation and moisture vapour resistance under walking or windy conditions. Heat and moisture transmission through the T-shirt can be further enhanced by creating small apertures on the front and back of the T-shirt with specially added fullness. Statement of Relevance: The thermal comfort of the human body is one of the key issues in the study of ergonomics. When doing exercise, a human body will generate heat, which will eventually result in sweating. If heat and moisture are not released effectively from the body, heat stress may occur and the persons performance will be negatively affected. Therefore, contemporary athletic T-shirts are designed to improve the heat and moisture transfer from the wearer. Through special cutting, such athletic T-shirts can be designed to improve the ventilation of the wearer.

Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket. Part 1: Development of a mathematical model

Abstract When the three-dimensional garment style was transformed into the two-dimensional garment pattern, the information of ease distribution was crucial because the ease of the garment was one of the important elements in constructing garment style. To model the ease distribution of X-line style jackets, the ease distribution was qualitatively presented by the shapes of cross section at different altitude. The newly defined segmental girth ease allowance provided a quantitative understanding of the ease distribution. A mathematical model of ease distribution was established in the X-line style jacket by using the surface fitting approach, which may predict the ease distribution of jackets in different dimensions. The ease distribution models of bustline, waistline, and hipline in X-line style of jackets were satisfactory because of lower root-mean-square error, especially compared with the actually measured data.

Evaluation and Analysis of Bra Design

Commercial bra designs are inadequate in overcoming all of the bras problems. Physical and physiological problems for the human body are commonly caused due to the poor design of bra components: for example, pressure from tight shoulder straps, pain rashes resulting from rigid underwires, irritation by bra cup seams and so on. The bra is closely fitted to the wearer. It is important and necessary to evaluate and analyze bra design problems in order to provide suitable methods to alleviate those problems. This paper reviews and evaluates the design problems of commercial bras in technical terms of fit, support, cup shape, underwire, sizing, elastics and fastening. The causes and effects of those problems are also discussed with physiological concerns. An interview survey with 80 women was conducted in order to obtain womens desires concerning bra design factors, and to investigate the statistics on the typical bra components which would commonly cause uncomfortable feelings.

Garment sizes in perception of body size

This paper reports an experimental investigation of the effect of garment size on perceived body size. The perceived body sizes of three Chinese men (thin, medium, and obese build) wearing different sizes of white T-shirts were assessed using Thompson and Grays 1995 Nine-figural Scale in 1 (thinnest) to 9 (obese) grade and a newly-proposed method. Within the limit of commercially available T-shirt sizes, for thin and medium persons, perceived body sizes are bigger when wearing T-shirts of larger sizes. For an obese person, however, wearing a large size T-shirt tends to make him look thinner. The study also showed that the newly proposed comparative method is more reliable in comparing body size perception but without measuring the magnitude of the change in body-size grade. The figural scale and the comparative method can be complementary.

Improving thermal comfort in apparel

Abstract: Comfort is a key factor to be considered in clothing design. Among all the comfort factors, thermal comfort is the primary one, as an important function of clothing is to provide aids in maintaining the thermal balance of the human body and ensure that the heat loss, skin temperature, air movement and humidity at the body surface produce a sensation of comfort. There are three main approaches in the development of clothing for improved comfort, i.e. the appropriate use of textile materials, garment design and attachment of special wearable devices into the garment system. In this chapter, different design approaches to enhance the thermal comfort, particularly in terms of body cooling, are discussed.

Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket. Part 2: Application to pattern alteration

Abstract A model of ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket has been developed in Part 1 of this two-part series of articles. The prediction of segmental girth ease allowance (SGEA) was carried out using the ease distribution model (EDM). The EDM was verified by comparing the deviations of the predicted SGEA with four extra jackets in different dimensions. Based on the distribution of SGEA, pattern alteration could be implemented by effectively adding the SGEA into basic block at the corresponding position instead of adding girth ease allowance at the edge of the pattern. The pattern alteration using the EDM was evaluated by comparing 18 parameters of newly produced patterns with those of draped patterns. The fitting of the patterns was visually assessed by three experts in garment design. Finally, the advantages and disadvantages of the proposed model are discussed.

Dielectric Properties of Fluorine-Containing Polymethylsiloxane-Imide Films

The dielectric properties, dielectric relaxation behavior, electric conduction and kinetic characteristics of fluorine-containing polysiloxane-imide were investigated. The fluorine-containing polyimide [6FDA + p-PDA] has a low dielectric constant of 3.04, compared to normal polyimides such as Upilex-S [BPDA + p-PDA] with a dielectric constant of 3.47, due to the addition of perfluoroalkyl groups into the polymer backbone, while fluorine-containing polysiloxane-imide (6FDA + siloxane) has the lowest dielectric constant of 2.43, which is less than 2.5. The introduction of siloxane groups on the fluoric polyimides provides the possibility of obtaining high-performance polyimides with ultralow dielectric constants. The dielectric relaxation spectra suggest that the fluorine-containing polysiloxane-imide (6FDA + siloxane) has a phase separation structure. As frequency increases, the a relaxation strengths decrease and the;3 relaxation strengths hardly change. The conduction study indicates that the / peak corresponds to the /3 dipolar relaxation whereas the a one is due to the conductive effects in the bulk and the a dipolar relaxation. The activation energy of the a transition decreases with increasing frequency, while the activation energy of the /3 transition does not vary with frequency