Elisa Casella

Drones as tools for monitoring beach topography changes in the Ligurian Sea (NW Mediterranean)

The aim of this study was to evaluate topographic changes along a stretch of coastline in the Municipality of Borghetto Santo Spirito (Region of Liguria, Italy, north-western Mediterranean) by means of a remotely piloted aircraft system coupled with structure from motion and multi-view stereo techniques. This sector was surveyed three times over 5 months in the fall–winter of 2013–2014 (1 November 2013, 4 December 2013, 17 March 2014) to obtain digital elevation models and orthophotos of the beach. Changes in beach topography associated with storm action and human activities were assessed in terms of gain/loss of sediments and shifting of the wet–dry boundary defining the shoreline. Between the first and second surveys, the study area was hit by two storms (10–11 November 2013 and 21–22 November 2013) with waves approaching from the E–NNE, causing a shoreline retreat which, in some sectors, reached 7 m. Between the second and third surveys, by contrast, four storms (25–27 December 2013, 5–6 January 2014, 17–18 January 2014 and 6–10 February 2014) with waves propagating from the SE produced a general advancement of the shoreline (up to ~5 m) by deposition of sediments along some parts of the beach. The data also reflect changes in beach topography due to human activity during the 2013 fall season, when private beach managers quarried ~178 m3 of sediments on the emerged beach near the shoreline to accumulate them landwards. The results show that drones can be used for regular beach monitoring activities, and that they can provide new insights into the processes related to natural and/or human-related topographic beach changes.

Coastal and marine geomorphology between Albenga and Savona(NW Mediterranean Sea, Italy)

In this paper, we present a map describing the main geomorphological features of the coastal and marine area between the towns of Albenga and Savona (Ligurian Sea, NW Mediterranean) corresponding to a coastal stretch of ∼40 km. To produce this map, we collated data from the literature, orthophotos, perspective photos, multibeam and side scan sonar data, and undertook direct surveys to ground truth data obtained using indirect techniques. We divided the information into nine thematic layers, including bathymetry, natural coastal types, geomorphological elements, seafloor coverage (both geological and biological), coastal and nearshore dynamics, human influence on coastal and marine environments, coastal occupation and protected areas.

Coral reef structural complexity provides important coastal protection from waves under rising sea levels

If coral reefs continue to degrade, waves on coastlines may substantially increase, leading to greater coastal erosion. Coral reefs are diverse ecosystems that support millions of people worldwide by providing coastal protection from waves. Climate change and human impacts are leading to degraded coral reefs and to rising sea levels, posing concerns for the protection of tropical coastal regions in the near future. We use a wave dissipation model calibrated with empirical wave data to calculate the future increase of back-reef wave height. We show that, in the near future, the structural complexity of coral reefs is more important than sea-level rise in determining the coastal protection provided by coral reefs from average waves. We also show that a significant increase in average wave heights could occur at present sea level if there is sustained degradation of benthic structural complexity. Our results highlight that maintaining the structural complexity of coral reefs is key to ensure coastal protection on tropical coastlines in the future.

Giant boulders and Last Interglacial storm intensity in the North Atlantic

Significance The Last Interglacial was the last period of the Earth’s history when climate was warmer than preindustrial, with higher polar temperatures and higher sea levels. Based on geologic evidence in Bermuda and the Bahamas, studies suggest that during this period the North Atlantic was characterized by “superstorms” more intense than any observed historically. Here we present data and models showing that, under conditions of higher sea level, historically observed hurricanes can explain geologic features previously interpreted as evidence for more intense Last Interglacial storm activity. Our results suggest that, even without an increase in the intensity of extreme storms, cliffs and coastal barriers will be subject to significantly higher wave-induced energies under even modestly higher sea levels. As global climate warms and sea level rises, coastal areas will be subject to more frequent extreme flooding and hurricanes. Geologic evidence for extreme coastal storms during past warm periods has the potential to provide fundamental insights into their future intensity. Recent studies argue that during the Last Interglacial (MIS 5e, ∼128–116 ka) tropical and extratropical North Atlantic cyclones may have been more intense than at present, and may have produced waves larger than those observed historically. Such strong swells are inferred to have created a number of geologic features that can be observed today along the coastlines of Bermuda and the Bahamas. In this paper, we investigate the most iconic among these features: massive boulders atop a cliff in North Eleuthera, Bahamas. We combine geologic field surveys, wave models, and boulder transport equations to test the hypothesis that such boulders must have been emplaced by storms of greater-than-historical intensity. By contrast, our results suggest that with the higher relative sea level (RSL) estimated for the Bahamas during MIS 5e, boulders of this size could have been transported by waves generated by storms of historical intensity. Thus, while the megaboulders of Eleuthera cannot be used as geologic proof for past “superstorms,” they do show that with rising sea levels, cliffs and coastal barriers will be subject to significantly greater erosional energy, even without changes in storm intensity.

Very high resolution mapping of coral reef state using airborne bathymetric LiDAR surface-intensity and drone imagery

ABSTRACT Very high resolution (VHR) airborne data enable detection and physical measurements of individual coral reef colonies. The bathymetric LiDAR system, as an active remote sensing technique, accurately computes the coral reef ecosystem’s surface and reflectance using a single green wavelength at the decimetre scale over 1-to-100 km2 areas. A passive multispectral camera mounted on an airborne drone can build a blue-green-red (BGR) orthorectified mosaic at the centimetre scale over 0.01-to-0.1 km2 areas. A combination of these technologies is used for the first time here to map coral reef ecological state at the submeter scale. Airborne drone BGR values (0.03 m pixel size) serve to calibrate airborne bathymetric LiDAR surface and intensity data (0.5 m pixel size). A classification of five ecological states is then mapped through an artificial neural network (ANN). The classification was developed over a small area (0.01 km2) in the lagoon of Moorea Island (French Polynesia) at VHR (0.5 m pixel size) and then extended to the whole lagoon (46.83 km2). The ANN was first calibrated with 275 samples to determine the class of coral state through LiDAR-based predictors; then, the classification was validated through 135 samples, reaching a satisfactory performance (overall accuracy = 0.75).

Reply to Hearty and Tormey: Use the scientific method to test geologic hypotheses, because rocks do not whisper

Hearty and Tormey (1) challenge our conclusions (2), incorrectly arguing that the megaboulders we discuss were shown to originate from the cliff bottom. A number of mischaracterizations are made by Hearty and Tormey (1) in their letter. First, we do not use a “tsunami wave model.” Second, we do not address the two other Bahamian landforms Hearty and Tormey (1) mention: their “superstorm” genesis interpretation [for which alternative hypotheses have been proposed (3, 4)] has no bearing on our (2) conclusions. Hearty and Tormey’s (1) claim that the boulders have “fingerprints” based on “several physical criteria” and “data from multiple disciplines” is false. Only two mega-boulder “physical properties” were reported by Hearty … [↵][1]1To whom correspondence should be addressed. Email: arovere{at}marum.de. [1]: #xref-corresp-1-1