Ellen McKinney

Exploring Criteria Consumers Use in Evaluating Their Online Formal Wear Rental Experience A Content Analysis of Online Reviews

To develop an understanding of consumers’ evaluations of their Rent the Runway (RTR) experiences, their online reviews were systematically sampled and saved as screen shots. Content analysis was conducted in two stages: (a) analysis of 201 reviews to develop the coding scheme and (b) data collection and analysis from an additional 600 reviews. Insights into RTR’s strategies for overcoming the challenges associated with online apparel sales were yielded. These may provide direction for other apparel companies. When planning their product offerings, online apparel rental companies should consider the most important apparel evaluative criteria found for RTR reviewers: (a) fit, (b) garment style and design elements, (c) social feedback, and (d) appropriateness. Companies may (a) adopt RTR’s unique e-service, shipping two sizes of the same dress; and (b) encourage reviewers to include more self-descriptive and dress-descriptive information in their reviews, both of which seemed to alleviate online shopping fit concerns.

Body-to-Pattern Relationships in Women’s Trouser Drafting Methods: Implications for Apparel Mass Customization

The authors of this study explored (a) body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships in trouser patterns drafted by two methods; (b) the consistency of these body-to-pattern relationships between methods and between differently shaped bodies within methods; (c) the patternmaking procedures that cause these outcomes; and (d) how these findings impact garment fit, particularly for mass customization. Body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships were inconsistent between and within methods, making them unsuitable for use in computer-aided custom patternmaking. Most strikingly, pattern crotch shapes were similar within each method, despite the fact that form crotch shapes were different. Patternmaking procedures causing these inconsistencies include (a) use of proportion of noncorresponding body measurements; (b) use of standard, rather than body, measurements; (c) variations in ease as proportions or standard amounts; (d) trueing, blending, and connecting steps; (e) variation between methods of measurements used, in use of proportions or standard measurements, and in steps; and (h) disregard of body shape.

Self-sewn identity: How female home sewers use garment sewing to control self-presentation:

Garment sewing was once a necessity for women to present themselves and their families in a socially acceptable manner. Despite societal and economics changes, as well as, an abundance of readily available cheap clothing, there is a resurging interest in personal garment sewing by women. This qualitative study explored the control gained by women who sew their own clothing finding that among the women interviewed personal garment sewing allowed them control over their clothing’s style, fit, and quality, which was not found through purchasing ready-to-wear clothes. Garment sewing permitted these women to present themselves in clothing that they felt more accurately represented their personality and taste. These findings provide insights into the usage of garment sewing by women to control their appearance which allowed them more authority over their clothing selection than their non-sewing peers. Validation of the women’s time spent sewing was established as the findings postulate noteworthy benefits that include increased satisfaction with both their appearance and their presentation of self to others. The findings are explained using theories related to self-presentation and identity.

Exploring the inclusion of home sewing pattern development into fashion design curriculums

ABSTRACT The ever-changing field of fashion design provides impetus to incorporate education about non-traditional and low cost entrepreneurial career options into fashion design curriculums. The purpose of this exploratory research was to develop, deliver, and evaluate the effectiveness of a curriculum to teach undergraduate fashion design students to design, produce, and market digital patterns to home sewers. Finding indicated that fashion design students are interested in such curriculums additions and find the inclusion of home sewing pattern development beneficial. Further research is needed to explore the interest of a wider scope of fashion design students, as well as, investigate additional options for students to use their fashion design skills.

Tacit magic: understanding the principles behind Nakamichi’s creative pattern cutting

ABSTRACT Tomoko Nakamichi is globally renowned for her creative pattern cutting techniques presented in the Pattern Magic books [(2010). Pattern magic. London: Laurence King Publishing; (2011). Pattern magic 2. London: Laurence King Publishing; (2012). Pattern magic: Stretch fabrics. London: Laurence King Publishing]. The goal of this research inquiry was to uncover tacit knowledge in Nakamichi’s techniques. Understanding the tacit principles behind her patterns may inspire pattern cutters to create innovative techniques and designs. Researchers conducted a structured inquiry into 50 different patterns in the Pattern Magic books to create a framework of principles. Each pattern was drafted, the principles contained therein analysed, and then applied in a new garment location to test the principles’ universality. Our inquiry began with traditional block-based pattern cutting principles of Joseph-Armstrong [(2010). Patternmaking for fashion design. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Education/Prentice Hall]: Dart Manipulation, Added Fullness, and Contouring. In addition to creative uses of these, we found principles which we termed: Adding 3D Geometric Shapes, Creating Shape through Extensions, Extending 2D Shapes from Seams, Geometric Shapes become 3D with the Body Inserted, and Versatility by Design.