Esther Boelsma

Characterization of reconstructed skin models

The aim of the present study was to evaluate tissue architecture and lipid composition of commercially available reconstructed human skin models; EpiDerm™, SkinEthic™ and Episkin™ in comparison to in-house reconstructed epidermis on a de-epidermized dermis (RE-DED) model and native tissue. For this purpose, the tissue architecture was examined using light microscopy, electron microscopy and immunohistochemistry; epidermal lipid composition was analyzed by HPTLC. Histological examination showed a completely stratified epithelium in all skin models closely resembling normal human epidermis. Low intra-batch variation in tissue architecture was observed in all skin models, but moderate to considerable inter-batch variation was noticed. In the stratum corneum extracellular space, lipid lamellae consisting of multiple alternating electron-dense and electron-lucent bands were present. Lipid analyses revealed the presence of all major epidermal lipid classes. Compared with native epidermis and RE-DED in EpiDerm, SkinEthic and Episkin models, the content of polar ceramides 5 and 6 was lower, ceramide 7 was absent, and the content of free fatty acids was very low. Evaluation of the expression and localization of a number of differentiation-specific protein markers revealed that all skin models showed an aberrant expression of keratin 6, skin-derived antileukoproteinase, small-proline-rich proteins, involucrin and transglutaminase. Although variation within batches was low, in particular keratin 6, involucrin and skin-derived antileukoproteinase expression demonstrated some inter-batch variation. In conclusion, all skin models provide a promising means for studying the effects of topically applied chemicals, although the observed deviations in tissue homeostasis and barrier properties need to be diminished. All skin models tested reproduced many of the characteristics of normal human epidermis and therefore provide a morphologically relevant in vitro means to assess skin irritation and perform other skin-related studies.

Barrier Function in Reconstructed Epidermis and Its Resemblance to Native Human Skin

One of the prerequisites for the use of human skin equivalents for scientific and screening purposes is that their barrier function is similar to that of native skin. Using human epidermis reconstructed on de-epidermized dermis we demonstrated that the formation of the stratum corneum (SC) barrier in vitro proceeds similarly as in vivo as judged from the extensive production of lamellar bodies, their complete extrusion at the stratum granulosum/SC interface, and the formation of multiple broad lamellar structures in the intercorneocyte space. The presence of well-ordered lipid lamellar phases was confirmed by small-angle X-ray diffraction. Although the long periodicity lamellar phase was present in both the native and the reconstructed epidermis, the short periodicity lamellar phase was present only in native tissue. In addition, the SC lipids predominantly formed the hexagonal sublattice. Analysis of lipid composition revealed that all SC lipids are synthesized in vitro. Differences in SC lipid organization in reconstructed epidermis may be ascribed to the differences in fatty acid content and profile indicating that further improvement in culture conditions is required for generation of in vitro reconstructed epidermis with stratum barrier properties of the native tissue.

Assessment of the potential irritancy of oleic acid on human skin: Evaluation in vitro and in vivo

As skin barrier modulating compounds, fatty acids are frequently used in formulations for transdermal or topical delivery. In this study the effects of oleic acid on keratinocytes in vitro was compared with its in vivo skin irritancy in humans. Dose- and time-dependent effects of oleic acid were examined in submerged human keratinocyte cultures, in reconstructed human epidermis (RE-DED), and in excised human skin, using alterations in morphology and changes in interleukin-1alpha mRNA levels as endpoints. In vitro results were compared with responses of living human skin after topical application of oleic acid, using non-invasive bioengineering methods. Direct interaction of oleic acid and submerged keratinocyte cultures resulted in cell toxicity at very low concentrations of the fatty acid. By contrast, when oleic acid was applied topically on RE-DED or on excised skin, no alterations in morphology were observed. Modulation of stratum corneum thickness indicated a key role of the stratum corneum barrier in the control of oleic acid-induced toxicity. In agreement with these findings, no epidermal tissue damage was seen in vivo, whereas oleic acid induced a mild but clearly visible skin irritation and inflammatory cells were present in the upper dermal blood vessels. Small amounts of oleic acid induced IL-1alpha mRNA expression in submerged keratinocyte cultures, whereas in RE-DED and in excised skin, IL-1alpha mRNA levels were increased only when the concentration applied topically was at least two orders of magnitude higher. It is concluded that minute amounts of oleic acid are sufficient to cause local (i.e. inside the viable epidermis) modulation of cytokine production. These concentrations do not affect morphology but induce skin irritation in vivo. To achieve comparable effects in the skin, much higher topical doses are needed than expected according to the locally required levels, owing to the rate-limiting transport of the fatty acid across the stratum corneum barrier.

In vivo Human Skin Barrier Modulation by Topical Application of Fatty Acids

The in vivo effects of fatty acids on skin barrier function were assessed by measuring: (i) transepidermal water loss (TEWL), (ii) diffusion lag times for hexyl nicotinate (HN), and (iii) irritant skin response using laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) in combination with visual scoring. Two classes of fatty acids have been investigated: straight-chain saturated fatty acids (SFA), having 6–12 carbon atoms, and unsaturated fatty acids (UFA): oleic, linoleic, α-linolenic and arachidonic acids. It has been reported that these acids can enhance the permeation of various compounds across the skin. After topical and occlusive application as a solution in propylene glycol (PG) for 3 h on the volar arm of human subjects, SFA only caused a slight irritation and increase in TEWL. The diffusion lag times of HN were reduced by the application SFA to the same extent as and not more than by the application of the pure solvent PG. In contrast, the application of UFA caused a significant increase in TEWL and LDV (irritation) responses. The TEWL values after oleic acid application were higher than those observed for the other three acids, while the irritation potential of arachidonic acid was the highest among UFA. As with SFA, sites treated with UFA did not show significantly different lag times of HN diffusion from PC-treated sites. The data suggest that the degree of irritation and the degree of barrier modulation for fatty acids are not necessarily correlated.

In vivo human skin permeability enhancement by oleic acid: a laser Doppler velocimetry study

Topical application of a skin permeation enhancer such as oleic acid (OA) can result in: (i) higher skin permeability for many exogenous substances (ii) an irritation reaction. Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) is one of few techniques which can assess both effects using appropriate protocols. Direct LDV measurement, measuring cutaneous blood flow, has been preferred as a tool to evaluate skin irritation. By comparing the LDV value of an irritant-treated site with an untreated site, an irritation index for the irritant can be obtained. Occlusive application of 0.16 M OA in propylene glycol (PG) for either 3 or 24 h produced irritation in form of redness and slight swelling. Using LDV, we obtained an irritation index of 2 and 4, respectively. The vehicle, PG alone, produced an index of around 1, which corresponded well to the slight to almost no irritation observed visually. The duration of the high irritation index assessed by LDV after OA-PG application is comparable to the duration of the increase in transepidermal water loss following the same application. This indicates a correlation between skin irritation and barrier perturbation caused by OA. LDV can also be used to elucidate the effect of enhancers on skin using hexyl nicotinate (HN) as a model drug, since its vasodilative effect can be clearly assessed by LDV. Pre-treatment of PG for 3 h significantly reduced the t0 and tmax of HN. No further reduction could be observed when OA was added into PG, suggesting that OA-PG is not more effective than PG alone in enhancing the permeation of HN.

An in vivo-In vitro study of the use of a human skin equivalent for irritancy screening of fatty acids.

A human skin equivalent (HSE) consisting of reconstructed epidermis on a fibroblast-populated collagen gel was evaluated as a model for irritancy screening. The irritancy potential of a series of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids was investigated in vivo under short-term exposure conditions using transepidermal water loss (TEWL), laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) and the penetration of hexyl nicotinate as parameters. The effects of the fatty acids in vitro were studied after topical application on HSE using changes in epidermal morphology, changes in interleukin (IL)-1alpha and interleukin-8 mRNA expression and protein levels, and alterations in activity of plasminogen activators as endpoints. The unsaturated fatty acids increased both TEWL and LDV and elevated IL-1alpha and IL-8 mRNA levels, whereas their effects on protein levels were minimal. In contrast, the saturated fatty acids were not very effective in vivo but induced an increase in IL-1alpha protein levels. The type of fatty acid determines not only the way and the extent of skin barrier modulation, but also the pattern of cell mediator production and release. This study stresses the neccessity of investigating multiple endpoints for the characterization of a test compound, in particular when studying mild and moderate irritants.

EXPRESSION OF SKIN-DERIVED ANTILEUKOPROTEINASE (SKALP) IN RECONSTRUCTED HUMAN EPIDERMIS AND ITS VALUE AS A MARKER FOR SKIN IRRITATION

For the investigation of the skin irritancy potential of chemicals in an in vitro model, it is necessary to have sensitive end-points that predict the effects on native human skin. Our aim was to investigate whether the induction of the proteinase inhibitor SKALP in reconstructed epidermis can be used as a marker. The influence of culture conditions and the effect of topical application of sodium lauryl sulfate and oleic acid on SKALP expression were evaluated using immunohistochemistry and Northern blotting. SKALP expression was induced by serum, epidermal growth factor and fibroblasts. In the presence of retinoic acid and 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 SKALP expression was inhibited, whereas supplementation with ascorbic acid and a-tocopherol had no effect. Tape-stripping of excised skin and topical treatment with sodium lauryl sulfate induced SKALP protein expression. Application of sodium lauryl sulfate and oleic acid on reconstructed epidermis also induced SKALP at the protein level but no significant effects could be demonstrated at mRNA levels. In conclusion, SKALP expression, which was increased upon application of sodium lauryl sulfate and oleic acid, can be used as an in vitro end-point for skin irritancy, irrespective of the modifying effects of culture conditions.

Basics (Guidelines) on Cell Culture Testing for Topical/Dermatological Drugs/Products and Cosmetics With Regard to Efficacy and Safety of the Preparations

Topical skin formulations that are designed either for personal care or for therapeutic treatment all have a certain potential of causing adverse skin reactions. Companies manufacturing skin preparations are required by law to investigate any possible hazard to human health in order to assure safe usage by the consumer. The ingredients of these preparations and the finished products must be screened extensively, a procedure which usually still involves animal testing (Boucher et al. 1990). The use of laboratory animals in safety testing of cosmetics and drugs has increasingly been questioned by both the public and scientists (Nixon et al. 1975;Balls et al. 1995). In recent years, this common concern has resulted in a substantial reduction and refinement in animal tests, which has been paralleled by a growing exploration of non-animal methods for toxicity testing. The alternative tests should not only reduce or replace the use of living animals but should also predict the responses of human skin to a higher degree than those obtained when animal skin is used. Although human skin in vitro can be considered the preferred alternative to animal skin, its use for screening purposes is often complicated by practical obstacles. The main problems are related to an irregular and minimal supply by surgical departments and to the often stringent requirements of fresh skin. Since studies on human beings are often considered ethically unacceptable, very time-consuming when performed on a large-scale basis, and difficult to interpret due to large donor-to-donor variability,the development of cultured human skin substitutes will be an attractive alternative.