Fabien Leckler

Analysis and Interpretation of Frequency–Wavenumber Spectra of Young Wind Waves

The energy level and its directional distribution are key observations for understanding the energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum between wind-wave generation, nonlinear interactions, and dissipation. Here, properties of gravity waves are investigated from a fixed platform in the Black Sea, equipped with a stereo video system that resolves waves with frequency f up to 1.4 Hz and wavelengths from 0.6 to 11 m. One representative record is analyzed, corresponding to young wind waves with a peak frequency fp = 0.33 Hz and a wind speed of 13 m s−1. These measurements allow for a separation of the linear waves from the bound second-order harmonics. These harmonics are negligible for frequencies f up to 3 times fp but account for most of the energy at higher frequencies. The full spectrum is well described by a combination of linear components and the second-order spectrum. In the range 2fp to 4fp, the full frequency spectrum decays like f−5, which means a steeper decay of the linear spectrum. The directional spectrum exhibits a very pronounced bimodal distribution, with two peaks on either side of the wind direction, separated by 150° at 4fp. This large separation is associated with a significant amount of energy traveling in opposite directions and thus sources of underwater acoustic and seismic noise. The magnitude of these sources can be quantified by the overlap integral I(f), which is found to increase sharply from less than 0.01 at f = 2fp to 0.11 at f = 4fp and possibly up to 0.2 at f = 5fp, close to the 0.5π value proposed in previous studies.

Dissipation source terms and whitecap statistics

Abstract Whitecaps are the main sink of wave energy and their occurrence has been related to the steepness of the waves. Recent parameterizations of the wave dissipation in numerical models are based on this property, but wave models have seldom been verified in terms of whitecap properties. Here we analyze and adjust the breaking statistics used in two recent wave dissipation parameterizations implemented in the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III® and now used operationaly at NOAA/NCEP. For dominant breaking waves, the reduction of breaking probabilities with wave age is well reproduced. Across the spectrum, the parameterizations produce a reasonable distribution of breaking fronts for wave frequencies up to three times the dominant frequency, but fail to reproduce the observed reduction in breaking front lengths for the shorter waves. Converted to whitecap coverage, the breaking parameterizations agree reasonably well with the classical empirical fits of whitecap coverage against wind speed and the global whitecap coverage estimated from space-borne radiometry.

122. A LARGE-SCALE LABORATORY EXPERIMENT OF RIP CURRENT CIRCULATIONS OVER A MOVEABLE BED: DRIFTER MEASUREMENTS

The present paper presents a laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed. The rip current characteristics over four distinct beach morphologies, exhibiting more or less developed nature-like bar-rip morphology, were investigated. For each video run, the same offshore shore-normal waves were generated by the wavemaker with the same mean water level in order to study the sensitivity of the rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 1-hour video run was used to track a large number (~30) of drifters released within the surf zone. Image coordinates were then rectified to still water level Cartesian coordinates to compute drifter velocities, mean characteristics and surf zone retention rates. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counter-rotating cells and a relatively narrow offshore-directed jet with, for three of the situations, a reasonably symmetric shape. Non-surprisingly, it was found that rip current intensity increases with increasing relative depth of the rip channel. The wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviation in flow intensity and direction provides high resolution information on the spatial variability of the rip current instabilities with, for instance, highly-pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow in the rip channel. Conversely to what was previously hypothesized in the literature, there was hardly trace of vortices being shed offshore and drifters exiting the surf zone compartment were not systematically caught by a pulsating jet. The cause for drifter exiting the semi-enclosed surf zone compartment remains, however, elusive and deserves further investigations. The computed surf zone retention rates (~90%) were of the order of those previously observed in the field, with no clear relationship with the mean rip current velocity or relative depth of the rip channel. Further video-runs will have to be analyzed to explore potential explanations.