Faith Kane

Digital Laser-dyeing for Polyester Fabrics

ABSTRACT Surface polyester fibers modified by laser beam energy have been found to display improved dye uptake (Lau et al. 1997; Kamel et al. 2012; Shahidi et al. 2013). This research considers “laser-dye” patterning as an alternative coloration method within a textile design context. In this study, standardized polyester (PET) knitted jersey and plain, woven fabrics were modified with CO2 laser technology to engineer dye onto the fabric with high-resolution graphics. The work considered the aesthetic possibilities, production opportunities, and environmental potential of the process compared to traditional and existing surface design techniques. Laser-dyed patterns were generated by a digital dyeing technique involving CAD, laser technology, and dye practices to facilitate textile coloration and patterning. An understanding of energy density was used to define the tone of a dye in terms of color depth in relation to the cloth. In so doing, a system for calibrating levels of color against laser energy in order to build a tonal image was found. Central to the investigation was the consideration of the laser beam spot as a dots-per-inch tool, drawing on the principles used in digital printing processes. It was therefore possible to utilize the beam as an image-making instrument for modifying textile fibers with controlled laser energy. Quantitative analysis of the outcomes alongside creative exploration facilitated both a tacit understanding of, and ability to control, processing parameters. This enabled repeatability of results parallel to design development and has established the potential to apply the technique commercially. Sportswear prototypes produced in the study suggest a suitable market for processing polyester garments in this way.

Weave as a method of sandal design: Innovation through the integration of a hands-on woven textile approach

As digital design methods make increasing contributions to creative practice, the role of hands-on form-giving continues to be challenged. Due to this digitisation progressing, it is timely to reflect on the significance of craft-based approaches. The paper investigates the opportunities afforded by craft-based woven textile approaches for the design of ‘ready-to-wear’ sandals. The research questions for the study are: what is the associated sandal market and current status of footwear/woven textile design; what are the benefits and drawbacks of a hands-on/craft-based approach to footwear design; and does the approach have the potential to facilitate innovation in sandal design? Current processes, products and markets are outlined and approaches discussed via a literature review. The benefits, drawbacks and potential for innovation are discussed and evaluated with regards to the literature. This is supported by empirical evidence gained via an action research case study that incorporated design practice. The findings indicate that there are benefits associated with a craft-based approach to footwear design, including those for mass manufacturing. Key advantages include facilitating an in-depth understanding of construction and materials, which has potential to lead to innovation. However, the research findings also indicate difficulties that must be overcome including but not limited to, timescales, cost and access to equipment/materials. It is also noted that the use of such approaches is not always viable, especially in extremely low-cost markets

The effect of CO2 laser irradiation on surface and dyeing properties of wool for textile design

The consumption of water and energy used in current dyeing and finishing processes in the textile industry pose significant environmental concern. By offering alternative solutions to traditional textile wet processing through laser technology, there is potential to increase environmental sustainability through significant reduction in energy and wastewater effluent. In addition, laser technology can offer digital design capabilities combined with the ability for bespoke or short run production.A laser enhanced dyeing technique, allowing surface patterning of woollen textile substrates is presented. The study examined the effect of CO2 laser irradiation as a pre-treatment to dyeing 100% wool fabric with reactive dye and it’s potential as a creative tool for textile design. Using a 10.6µm, 60 Watt CO2 laser, optimum laser processing parameters for treating wool, were determined. Tests were then performed to analyse the effectiveness of the laser pre-treated and dyed fabric. Reflectance spectrophotometry, dye exhaustion and colour difference values were calculated, revealing that laser treatment has an increasing effect on the colour difference value. Investigations concluded CO2 laser irradiation could be used to increase dye uptake on the fabric surface. After dyeing, the laser marked areas appeared tonally darker on the surface of the cloth. This tonal differentiation was then used to examine quality of line and mark making that can be achieved to impart surface patterning on woollen textiles.The consumption of water and energy used in current dyeing and finishing processes in the textile industry pose significant environmental concern. By offering alternative solutions to traditional textile wet processing through laser technology, there is potential to increase environmental sustainability through significant reduction in energy and wastewater effluent. In addition, laser technology can offer digital design capabilities combined with the ability for bespoke or short run production.A laser enhanced dyeing technique, allowing surface patterning of woollen textile substrates is presented. The study examined the effect of CO2 laser irradiation as a pre-treatment to dyeing 100% wool fabric with reactive dye and it’s potential as a creative tool for textile design. Using a 10.6µm, 60 Watt CO2 laser, optimum laser processing parameters for treating wool, were determined. Tests were then performed to analyse the effectiveness of the laser pre-treated and dyed fabric. Reflectance spectrophotometry, d...