Florent Grasso

Physical modeling of intermediate cross‐shore beach morphology: Transients and equilibrium states

Laboratory experiments on cross-shore beach morphodynamics are presented. A lightweight sediment (density rho(s) = 1.19 g cm(-3)) model is used in order to fulfill a Shields number and Rouse number scaling. This choice aims at correctly reproducing bed load transport as well as suspension dynamics. Terraces and barred beach profiles obtained in the experiments also present close similarities with profiles observed in the field. In order to question the concept of equilibrium beach profile, wave forcings conforming to a JONSWAP spectrum were imposed over long periods (up to more than a hundred hours). An average bottom evolution velocity is defined and used to determine when the profile reaches equilibrium. Usually, beach profiles are characterized according to the Wright and Short (1984) classification based on the Dean number W. This well-known classification is investigated and refined in the intermediate range, that is, for 1 = Omega 5. For W close to 1, a typical reflective profile is obtained. Terraces are obtained for the Omega = 2.5 cases. For Omega approximate to 3.7, the profiles exhibit two parts: a mild dissipative offshore slope producing low reflection and a steeper beach face with slightly higher reflection. The wave dissipation, velocity skewness, and acceleration skewness are computed from the free surface elevation time series. The dissipation and wave nonlinearities patterns are similar for similar equilibrium beach profiles, that is, with the same Dean number. Dissipation peaks coincide with bottom slope transitions as higher energy dissipation occurs with milder bottom slope sections. Besides, the uniformity of volumetric wave energy dissipation seems to concern only a limited zone of beaches with a widely developed surf zone.

Towards a process-based model to predict dune erosion along the Dutch Wadden coast

An equilibrium dune-erosion model is used every six years to assess the capability of the most seaward dune row on the Dutch Wadden islands to withstand a storm with a 1 in 10,000 probability for a given year. The present-day model is the culmination of numerous laboratory experiments with an initial cross-shore profile based on the central Netherlands coast. Large parts of the dune coast of the Wadden islands have substantially different dune and cross-shore profile characteristics than found along this central coast, related to the presence of tidal channels, ebb-tidal deltas, beach-plains and strong coastal curvature. This complicated coastal setting implies that the predictions of the dune-erosion model are sometimes doubtful; accordingly, a shift towards a process-based dune-erosion model has been proposed. A number of research findings based on recent laboratory and field studies highlight only few of the many challenges that need to be faced in order to develop and test such a model. Observations of turbulence beneath breaking waves indicate the need to include breaking-wave effects in sand transport equations, while current knowledge of infragravity waves, one of the main sand transporting mechanisms during severe storm conditions, is strongly challenged by laboratory and field observations on gently sloping beaches that are so typical of the Wadden islands. We argue that in-situ and remote-sensing field observations, laboratory experiments and numerical models need to be the pillars of Earth Scientific research in the Wadden Sea area to construct a meaningful process-based dune-erosion tool.

Numerical modelling of mixed-sediment consolidation

Sediment transport modelling in estuarine environments, characterised by cohesive and non-cohesive sediment mixtures, has to consider a time variation of erodibility due to consolidation. Generally, validated by settling column experiments, mud consolidation is now fairly well simulated; however, numerical models still have difficulty to simulate accurately the sedimentation and consolidation of mixed sediments for a wide range of initial conditions. This is partly due to the difficulty to formulate the contribution of sand in the hindered settling regime when segregation does not clearly occur. Based on extensive settling experiments with mud-sand mixtures, the objective of this study was to improve the numerical modelling of mixed-sediment consolidation by focusing on segregation processes. We used constitutive relationships following the fractal theory associated with a new segregation formulation based on the relative mud concentration. Using specific sets of parameters calibrated for each test—with different initial sediment concentration and sand content—the model achieved excellent prediction skills for simulating sediment height evolutions and concentration vertical profiles. It highlighted the model capacity to simulate properly the segregation occurrence for mud-sand mixtures characterised by a wide range of initial conditions. Nevertheless, calibration parameters varied significantly, as the fractal number ranged from 2.64 to 2.77. This study investigated the relevance of using a common set of parameters, which is generally required for 3D sediment transport modelling. Simulations were less accurate but remained satisfactory in an operational approach. Finally, a specific formulation for natural estuarine environments was proposed, simulating correctly the sedimentation-consolidation processes of mud-sand mixtures through 3D sediment transport modelling.

Large-scale laboratory observations of beach morphodynamics and turbulence beneath shoaling and breaking waves

ABSTRACT De Winter, W., Wesselman, D., Grasso, F. and Ruessink, G., 2013. Large-scale laboratory observations of beach morphodynamics and turbulence beneath shoaling waves and plunging breakers. In 2012, large-scale laboratory experiments were carried out in the Deltagoot in the framework of the Hydralab IV-funded BARDEXII project. The overall project aims were to examine the effect of swash/groundwater interactions to sand transport and morphological development in the swash zone and, additionally, to investigate the sediment exchange between the swash and surf zone. Work package 5 in the BARDEXII project focused on this second aim and, therefore, paid particular attention to the effect of surface-generated turbulence on sand suspension and on the direction and magnitude of the subsequent sand transport. We know from earlier, predominantly small-scale laboratory experiments that breaking-induced surface-generated eddies can penetrate through the water column to hit the sea bed and suspend sand. The inherently intermittent nature of this turbulence and hence suspension is strikingly at odd with sand transport equations that assume sand transport to be related to the orbital flow to some power. Although attempts to include breaking-induced turbulence into sand-transport equations have been performed to improve the modeling of swash-surf sand exchange, our quantitative understanding of the effects of breaking-induced turbulence on sand suspension is limited because of a lack of simultaneous and accurate measurements of turbulence and sand suspension under breaking waves. This paper will describe the experimental design for this work package and present preliminary results on (1) the bathymetric evolution during the series of tests and (2) the vertical turbulence structure beneath shoaling and breaking waves.

Suspended Sediment Dynamics in the Macrotidal Seine Estuary (France) - Part 1: Numerical Modeling of Turbidity Maximum Dynamics

Tidal pumping, baroclinic circulation and vertical mixing are known to be the main mechanisms responsible for the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) formation. However, the influence of hydro-meteorological conditions on ETM dynamics is still not properly grasped and requires further investigation to be quantified. Based on a realistic 3-dimensional numerical model of the macrotidal Seine Estuary (France) that accounts for mud and sand transport processes, the objective of this study is to quantify the influence of the main forcing (river flow, tides, waves) on the ETM location and mass changes. As expected, the ETM location is strongly modulated by semidiurnal tidal cycles and fortnightly timescales with a high sensitivity to river flow variations. The ETM mass is clearly driven by the tidal range, characteristic of the tidal pumping mechanism. However, it is not significantly affected by the river flow. Energetic wave conditions substantially influence the ETM mass by contributing up to 44% of the maximum mass observed during spring tides and by increasing the mass by a factor of three during mean tides compared to calm wave conditions. This means that neglecting wave forcing can result in significantly underestimating the ETM mass in estuarine environments. In addition, neap-to-spring phasing has a strong influence on ETM location and mass through a hysteresis response associated with the delay for tidal pumping and stratification to fully develop. Finally, simulations show that the uppermost limit of the Seine ETM location did not change notably during the last 35 years; however, the seaward limit migrated few kilometers upstream.

Suspended Sediment Dynamics in the Macrotidal Seine Estuary (France) - Part 2: Numerical Modeling of Sediment Fluxes and Budgets Under Typical Hydrological and Meteorological Conditions

Understanding the sediment dynamics in an estuary is important for its morphodynamic and ecological assessment as well as, in case of an anthropogenically controlled system, for its maintenance. However, the quantification of sediment fluxes and budgets is extremely difficult from in-situ data and requires thoroughly validated numerical models. In the study presented here, sediment fluxes and budgets in the lower Seine Estuary were quantified and investigated from seasonal to annual time scales with respect to realistic hydro- and meteorological conditions. A realistic three-dimensional process-based hydro- and sediment-dynamic model was used to quantify mud and sand fluxes through characteristic estuarine cross-sections. In addition to a reference experiment with typical forcing, three experiments were carried out and analysed, each differing from the reference experiment in either river discharge or wind and waves so that the effects of these forcings could be separated. Hydro- and meteorological conditions affect the sediment fluxes and budgets in different ways and at different locations. Single storm events induce strong erosion in the lower estuary and can have a significant effect on the sediment fluxes offshore of the Seine Estuary mouth, with the flux direction depending on the wind direction. Spring tides cause significant up-estuary fluxes at the mouth. A high river discharge drives barotropic down-estuary fluxes at the upper cross-sections, but baroclinic up-estuary fluxes at the mouth and offshore so that the lower estuary gains sediment during wet years. This behaviour is likely to be observed worldwide in estuaries affected by density gradients and turbidity maximum dynamics.