Francesca Camilli

Sensory evaluation and instrumental measurements to determine tactile properties of wool fabrics

Fabrics manufactured in Italy with 100% Sardinian sheep breed wool, traditionally named ‘Orbace’, and with local Tuscan wool from 50% Sardinian and 50% Comisana sheep breeds wool (Tuscan Cloth), were subjected to sensory evaluation, through descriptive analysis performed by a trained panel, and to an instrumental evaluation method, through FAST – Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing. The correlation between instrumental data and sensory attributes was investigated. Sensory evaluation indicated that Orbace fabrics, originated from 100% Sardinian wool, had higher grittiness, stiffness, force of compression and hand friction and lower softness and tensile stretch, as compared to the fabrics obtained from mixed wool. Principal component analysis (PCA) indicated a high correlation for grittiness, stiffness and force of compression in one direction, tensile stretch, softness, warmth and fullness in the opposite, clearly discriminating in this dimension Orbaces from Tuscan fabrics. This discrimination appears to be an effect of the wool used for the different fabrics. Differences in key sensory traits were also recorded among fabrics derived from the same raw material, but differing in weave. Thickness, as the key attribute of the second PCA dimension, provided discriminations within groups and is reasonably perceived as an effect of different weaves. Canonical Correlation Analysis indicated that measurements performed with FAST were correlated with a number of basic touch traits, including softness, stiffness, force of compression and tensile stretch. Orbace and Tuscan Cloth handle definition, on the basis of sensory and instrumental measures, will be of use to describe and protect original products.

How local stakeholders perceive agroforestry systems: an Italian perspective

This paper reports the results of a study conducted in Italy, within the AGFORWARD (2014–2017) project, aimed at promoting innovative agroforestry practices in Europe. Agroforestry offers a means for maintaining food production whilst addressing some of the negative environmental effects of intensive agriculture. This study aims to elicit the positive and negative points of view and perceptions of local stakeholders in Italy in relation to three types of agroforestry systems. The Participatory Research and Network Development was implemented in three workshops conducted in Sardinia, Umbria, and Veneto regions, and applied adopting a common methodological protocol. Qualitative data were obtained using open discussions with stakeholders on key issues, challenges and innovations. Quantitative data were obtained from stakeholders completing questionnaires during the workshops. A statistical analysis was applied to elicit the differences in stakeholders’ positive and negative perceptions in relation to production, management, environment and socio-economy aspects. Although the participants in the study came from different geographical and socioeconomic contexts with varied educational and cultural backgrounds, the different professional groups (farmers, policy-makers and researchers) and the three workshops generally shared similar perceptions of the benefits and constraints. The effects of agroforestry on production and the environment were generally perceived as positive, whilst those related to management were generally negative. The process of bringing the groups together seemed to be an effective means for identifying the key research gaps that need to be addressed in order to promote the uptake and maintenance of agroforestry.

A Preliminary Characterization of Wools from Italian Native Sheep Breeds: Opportunities for New Productions and the Development of Rural Areas

Italian sheep breeds, either local or native, produce about 14,000 tons of greasy wool per year included in the range of moderate to poor quality wools. In order to exploit neglected local textile resources, this study focused on a preliminary descriptive analysis of wools from some Italian native sheep breeds by measuring diameter and length of wool fibers. Variability emerging from data was described using multivariate techniques. A graphic description of different wools was provided by applying cluster analysis in order to distinguish wool characters by sheep breeds and clearly identify wool groups according to fiber variables.

Neglected Wools: Fundamental Steps to Counteract the Loss of Potentially Valuable Materials Derived from Native Sheep Breeds

In order to enhance the textile value of Italian native and local wools, research projects were carried out by starting mapping wools from some Italian sheep breeds through a preliminary morphological characterization of wool fibres. Furthermore, textile processing procedures differing from the commonly used woolling techniques have been set up. The results have shown that, at national level, native and local wools, beyond being more widely employed in the carpets production, could be also used in the higher added value sector of clothing and fashion.

The Garfagnana Model for Exploiting Agrarian and Cultural Biodiversity: The White Garfagnina Sheep Breed, a Case Study of Sustainable Local Development

This work shows and discusses ten years of activities of the Union of Municipalities of Garfagnana to support the protection of local agrarian biodiversity in a sustainable rural development perspective. Such activities were based on the involvement of local community as the main protagonist of the process of development together with the coordination role of local institutions. The key elements of the success of the Garfagnana model was the exploitation of the multifunctionality of local resources and the diversification of local economies, taking into account both local knowledge on agricultural traditions and the contribution of research, as in the case of the white Garfagnina sheep breed attests.