Hiromitsu Nakazawa

A possible regulation mechanism of water content in human stratum corneum via intercellular lipid matrix

We studied the water regulation mechanism in human stratum corneum which is composed of corneocytes and intercellular lipid matrix by the ex vivo small- and medium-angle X-ray diffraction. Under the normal condition water molecules are stored mainly in the corneocytes. When the water content increased, from the small-angle X-ray diffraction of the human stratum corneum we obtained the swelling behavior of the short lamellar lipid structure as a result of incorporating a very small amount of water into water layers between neighboring the lipid bilayers, and its diffraction peak width became narrow and turned to wide at the water content of 20-30wt%. In addition as evidence for uptake of water in the corneocytes, we observed the structural modification of soft keratins in the corneocytes from the medium-angle X-ray diffraction. Based upon these results we propose that the water content in the human stratum corneum is regulated to be at 20-30wt% so as to stabilize the short lamellar structure in the intercellular lipid matrix.

Novel method to observe subtle structural modulation of stratum corneum on applying chemical agents.

In the development of functional chemicals such as percutaneous penetration enhancers and cosmetics, the structural evidence at the molecular level in stratum corneum (SC) is highly desirable. We developed a method to observe a minute structural change of intercellular lipid matrix and corneocytes on applying the chemicals to the SC using synchrotron X-ray diffraction technique. The performance of the present method was demonstrated by applying typical chemicals, chloroform/methanol mixture, hydrophilic ethanol and hydrophobic d-limonene. From the small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction we obtained the following results: on applying chloroform/methanol mixture the intercellular lipids were extracted markedly, on applying ethanol the intercellular lipid structure was slightly disrupted, ethanol molecules were taken into the corneocytes and in addition the pools of ethanol seem to be formed in the hydrophilic region of the intercellular lipid matrix in the SC, and on applying d-limonene the repeat distance of the long lamellar structure increased by incorporating d-limonene molecules, the intercellular lipid structure was slightly disrupted, and the pools of d-limonene were formed in the hydrophobic region of the intercellular lipid matrix in the SC.

Low-flux electron diffraction study for the intercellular lipid organization on a human corneocyte

Human skin stratum corneum (SC) structures were investigated by electron diffraction (ED) with a very low-flux electron beam with the help of high-sensitivity detectors, the imaging plate and the CCD camera. This low-flux electron diffraction (LFED) method made it possible to minimize the unfavorable effect of electron beam damage and to give a reliable diffraction pattern from a small selected area (0.2μm(2)) on a corneocyte. Dependence of the 2-dimensional ED pattern on the size of the selected area showed that orientational correlation between lipid packing domains can persist over the area much larger than their domain size. The LFED method also allowed us to trace the detailed structural change induced by the electron beam damage. The ED diffraction peak for the lattice constant of about 4.1nm decayed in three steps. The detailed analysis of these three steps suggested that a different type of orthorhombic structure exists interacted with the well-described hexagonal and orthorhombic structures, in the process of decay resulting from electron beam damage.

Mechanism of gelation in the hydrogenated soybean lecithin (PC70)/hexadecanol/water system.

The crude phospholipid mixture (PC70) forms a homogeneous gel with hexadecanol (HD) in water, whereas the purified lipid does not. The fact that the crude material PC70 can be utilized for homogeneous gel preparation suits the cosmetic industry very well from the viewpoint of cost performance. In order to clarify the mechanism of the gelation, we investigated the structures and physicochemical properties of the PC70/HD/water system by rheometry, freeze-fracture electron microscopy, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and synchrotron X-ray diffraction. Our results suggested that the gelation is induced by change in bilayer morphology from closed vesicles to sheet-like structures with open edges covered by minor lipid components that are stiffened due to intercalation of HD molecules between phospholipids. The morphological change may give rise to homogeneous distribution of the bilayer sheets throughout the solution and formation of water continuum that may work as a network in the gel.

A Possible Percutaneous Penetration Pathway That Should Be Considered

The intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum form structures composed of ordered phases with orthorhombic and hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing structures and, in addition, a structure composed of a disordered fluid phase. Although the fluid phase plays an important role in percutaneous penetration, little attention has been paid to it in the literature thus far. Recently, a method to estimate the proportion of the fluid phase within the lipids of the stratum corneum was proposed and it was shown to reach about 80%. However, since that study assumed uniform extraction of the intercellular lipids from the stratum corneum, the analysis might give rise to an overestimation of the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase. We developed a way to investigate the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase by treating with ethanol, into which the lipids in the fluid phase might be dominantly dissolved. From the experiment we pointed out the possibility that the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase reached more than 50% of the whole intercellular lipids. Therefore, the fluid-phase region in the intercellular lipid matrix should be taken into account when considering the percutaneous penetration mechanism.

Effect of Solvent Dielectric Constant on the Formation of Large Flat Bilayer Stacks in a Lecithin/Hexadecanol Hydrogel

We investigated the effect of dielectric properties of the aqueous medium on the novel type of hydrogel composed of a crude lecithin mixture (PC70) and hexadecanol (HD), in which charged sheet-like bilayers are kept far apart due to interbilayer repulsive interaction. We used dipropylene glycol (DPG) as a modifier of the dielectric properties and examined its effect on the hydrogel by synchrotron X-ray diffraction, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), polarized optical microscopy, and freeze-fracture electron microscopy. We found that at a DPG weight fraction in the aqueous medium WDPG ≈ 0.4, the bilayer organization is transformed into unusually large flat bilayer stacks with a regular lamellar spacing of 6.25 nm and consequently disintegration of the hydrogel takes place. Semiquantitative calculation of the interbilayer interaction energy based on the Deyaguin-Landau-Verwey-Overbeek (DLVO) theory suggested that the reduction of the aqueous medium dielectric constant ε by DPG may lower the energy barrier preventing flat bilayers from coming closer together. We inferred that the size of the bilayer sheet increases because the reduction of ε promotes protonation of acidic lipids that work as edge-capping molecules.

Thermal phase transition behavior of lipid layers on a single human corneocyte cell.

We have improved the selected area electron diffraction method to analyze the dynamic structural change in a single corneocyte cell non-invasively stripped off from human skin surface. The improved method made it possible to obtain reliable diffraction images to trace the structural change in the intercellular lipid layers on a single corneocyte cell during heating from 24°C to 100°C. Comparison of the results with those of synchrotron X-ray diffraction experiments on human stratum corneum sheets revealed that the intercellular lipid layers on a corneocyte cell exhibit essentially the same thermal phase transitions as those in a stratum corneum sheet. These results suggest that the structural features of the lipid layers are well preserved after the mechanical stripping of the corneocyte cell. Moreover, electron diffraction analyses of the thermal phase transition behaviors of the corneocyte cells that had the lipid layers with different distributions of orthorhombic and hexagonal domains at 24°C suggested that small orthorhombic domains interconnected with surrounding hexagonal domains transforms in a continuous manner into new hexagonal domains.

Penetration route of functional molecules in stratum corneum studied by time-resolved small- and wide-angle x-ray diffraction

We studied effects of functional molecules on corneocytes in stratum corneum using time-resolved small- and wide-angle x-ray diffraction after applying a functional molecule. From these results it was revealed that in the stratum corneum a typical hydrophilic molecule, ethanol, penetrates via the transcellular route and on the other hand a typical hydrophobic molecule, d-limonene, penetrates via the intercellular route.