Hiroyoshi Togashi

COMBINED DIFFRACTION AND TRANSMISSION OF WATER WAVES AROUND A POROUS BREAKWATER GAP

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

IRREGULAR WAVES OVER AN ELLIPTIC SHOAL

A special reflecting wall 12 m long and 2.1 m high was built off the beach at Reggio Calabria, and 30 wave gauges were assembled before the wall and were connected to an electronic station on land. It was possible to observe the reflection of wind waves generated by a very stable wind over a fetch of 10 Km. The experiment aimed to verify the general closed solution for the wave group mechanics (Boccotti, 1988, 1989), for the special case of the wave reflection.Significant features on Wadden Sea wave climate are evaluated in respect of the state of the art. Main emphasis was laid on an analysis of the governing boundary conditions of local wave climate in island sheltered Wadden Sea areas with extensions being sufficient for local wind wave growth. Explanatory for significant wave heights a reliable parametrization of local wave climate has been evaluated by using generally available data of water level and wind measurements.

Oscillations in a coupled bay—river system. 2. Numerical method

Abstract Natural and wave-induced oscillations in Nagasaki Bay, a coupled bay—river system, are numerically studied. Formulation of the problem is based on the mild slope wave equation with modeled dissipation. Computations are performed by the finite element method originated from the classical variational principle. The numerical results show that the bay at the mean tidal level has natural modes of periods of 30.60 minutes, 17.28 minutes, 10.08 minutes, 7.67 minutes, etc. The 30.60-minute mode of the bay is characterized by a monotonic increase of the amplitude of oscillation from the bay entrance to the Urakami River mouth, whereas the 17.28-minute mode and the 10.08-minute mode attain maximum near Fukahori. It is also demonstrated that the 30.60-minute mode, the 17.28-minute mode and the 10.08-minute mode can be most severely resonated when the bay is subjected to oscillations in the open sea with periods of about 33.2 minutes, 17.9 minutes, and 10.1 minutes, respectively. The existence of the Urakami River seems to have an effect on mitigating the resonant bay oscillations, particularly if the relevant mode is of relatively low frequency and maximizes near the river mouth.