Hyeonji Park

Phototoxicity: Its Mechanism and Animal Alternative Test Methods.

The skin exposure to solar irradiation and photoreactive xenobiotics may produce abnormal skin reaction, phototoxicity. Phototoxicity is an acute light-induced response, which occurs when photoreacive chemicals are activated by solar lights and transformed into products cytotoxic against the skin cells. Multifarious symptoms of phototoxicity are identified, skin irritation, erythema, pruritis, and edema that are similar to those of the exaggerated sunburn. Diverse organic chemicals, especially drugs, are known to induce phototoxicity, which is probably from the common possession of UV-absorbing benzene or heterocyclic rings in their molecular structures. Both UVB (290~320 nm) and UVA (320~400 nm) are responsible for the manifestation of phototoxicity. Absorption of photons and absorbed energy (hv) by photoactive chemicals results in molecular changes or generates reactive oxygen species and depending on the way how endogenous molecules are affected by phototoxicants, mechanisms of phototoxcity is categorized into two modes of action: Direct when unstable species from excited state directly react with the endogenous molecules, and indirect when endogeneous molecules react with secondary photoproducts. In order to identify phototoxic potential of a chemical, various test methods have been introduced. Focus is given to animal alternative test methods, i.e., in vitro, and in chemico assays as well as in vivo. 3T3 neutral red uptake assay, erythrocyte photohemolysis test, and phototoxicity test using human 3-dimensional (3D) epidermis model are examples of in vitro assays. In chemico methods evaluate the generation of reactive oxygen species or DNA strand break activity employing plasmid for chemicals, or drugs with phototoxic potential.

Rhododenol and raspberry ketone impair the normal proliferation of melanocytes through reactive oxygen species-dependent activation of GADD45.

Rhododenol or rhododendrol (RD, 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol) occurs naturally in many plants along with raspberry ketone (RK, 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone), a ketone derivative, which include Nikko maple tree (Acer nikoense) and white birch (Betula platyphylla). De-pigmenting activity of RD was discovered and it was used as a brightening ingredient for the skin whitening cosmetics. Recently, cosmetics containing RD were withdrawn from the market because a number of consumers developed leukoderma, inflammation and erythema on their face, neck and hands. Here, we explored the mechanism underlying the toxicity of RD and RK against melanocytes using B16F10 murine melanoma cells and human primary epidermal melanocytes. Treatment with RD or RK resulted in the decreased cell viability in a dose-dependent manner which appeared from cell growth arrest. Consistently, ROS generation was significantly increased by RD or RK as determined by DCF-enhanced fluorescence. An antioxidant enzyme, glutathione peroxidase was depleted as well. In line with ROS generation, oxidative damages and the arrest of normal cell proliferation, GADD genes (Growth Arrest and DNA Damage) that include GADD45 and GADD153, were significantly up-regulated. Prevention of ROS generation with an anti-oxidant, N-acetylcysteine (NAC) significantly rescued RD and RK-suppressed melanocyte proliferation. Consistently, up-regulation of GADD45 and GADD153 was significantly attenuated by NAC, suggesting that increased ROS and the resultant growth arrest of melanocytes may contribute to RD and RK-induced leukoderma.

Investigation of dermal toxicity of ionic liquids in monolayer-cultured skin cells and 3D reconstructed human skin models

Ionic liquids have gained increasing attention in the chemical industry as potential green substitutes for traditional solvents. However, little is known about toxicity of ionic liquids on the skin, a major exposure portal to toxic substances. Here, we evaluated dermal toxicity of ionic liquids using human keratinocyte and fibroblast cell line, 3D reconstructed human epidermis, and full-thickness model to investigate underlying mechanisms. Cytotoxicity of ionic liquids was evaluated for representative anions, [TFSI], [PF6], [BF4], and [DCA], as well as for cations, [EMIM], [BMPY], [TBA] and [Zn], in human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT, and human dermal fibroblasts. In our results, significant cytotoxicity was induced by ionic liquids with [TFSI] in both cell lines. Notably, cytotoxicity of [TFSI] containing ionic liquids was comparable to xylene, a toxic conventional organic solvent. Fluorescent and flow cytometric analysis revealed that [TFSI]-exposed cells underwent necrotic cell death. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) was increased while the amount of glutathione was decreased by [TFSI] in dose-dependent manner, which was reversed by antioxidant, N-acetylcysteine. In 3D reconstructed human epidermis and full-thickness model, a single application of [TFSI] induced toxicity although it was minimal and largely limited to epidermal layer. Collectively, these results demonstrated potential dermal toxicity of ionic liquids.

Novel anti-melanogenic hexapeptoids, PAL-10 and PAL-12

Diverse compound sources are being explored for de-pigmentation activities to develop novel therapeutic agents or functional cosmetic ingredients for hyper-pigmentation disorders. Peptoids are a class of peptidomimetics whose side chains are appended to the nitrogen atom of the peptide backbone, instead of α-carbon. Peptoids are more durable against proteolysis and are being actively investigated in drug discovery, but rarely studied as cosmetic ingredients. Here, we demonstrated that new hexa-peptoids, PAL-10 and PAL-12, can inhibit melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells, a 3D pigmented human skin model (Neoderm®-ME, Tegoscience Co) and zebrafish. Anti-melanogenic effects of PAL-10 or PAL-12 as compared with arbutin, a positive control in B16F10 cells, Neoderm®-ME and zebrafish were statistically significant and concentration-dependent anti-melanogenic effects were manifested as determined by image, histology, and melanin contents. Anti-melanogenic effects of PAL-10 appeared to be from enzymatic inhibition of tyrosinase while mRNA expression of melanogenic enzymes was not affected. In conclusion, we demonstrated that PAL-10 and PAL-12 can be used as a new cosmetic ingredient with strong brightening efficacies.

PAL-12, a new anti-aging hexa-peptoid, inhibits UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts and 3D reconstructed human full skin model, Keraskin-FT™

Peptoids are a class of peptidomimetics whose pharmacological activities are widely investigated owing to their remarkable biological stability. However, the utilities of peptoids as cosmetic functional ingredients have not been fully explored. Here, we investigated anti-aging effects of PAL-12, a new hexa-peptoid, on UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a 3D reconstituted human full skin model, Keraskin-FT™. PAL-12 suppressed matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression induced by UVB irradiation along with the attenuation of MMP-1 secretion as determined by ELISA assay. Interestingly PAL-12 slightly enhanced the expression levels of collagen-1 and fibronectin-1 in HDFs or Keraskin-FT™. In addition, PAL-12 prevented the decrease of cell viability following UVB irradiation. However, PAL-12 failed to affect ROS generation, cell necrosis and apoptosis significantly. Instead, PAL-12 suppressed UVB-induced activation of epidermal growth factor receptors (EGFR), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and c-Jun, which may resulted in the attenuation of AP-1-promoted MMP-1 expression. Collectively, these results suggest that PAL-12 might be a novel cosmetic ingredient effective against UVB-induced skin photoaging.