Izabella Surowiec

Investigation of natural dyes occurring in historical Coptic textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV-Vis and mass spectrometric detection

Liquid chromatography (LC) combined with ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) and mass spectrometric (MS) detection was utilized to study the chemical components present in extracts of natural dyes originating from fiber samples obtained from Coptic textiles from Early Christian Art Collection of National Museum in Warsaw. Chromatographic retention, ionization, UV-Vis and mass spectra of twenty selected dye compounds of flavanoid-, anthraquinone- and indigo-types were studied. Most of the investigated compounds could be ionized by positive and negative ion electrospray ionization. Difficulties with the ionization by electrospray were experienced for indigotin and brominated indigotins, but these were ionized by atmospheric pressure chemical ionization. Mass spectrometric detection, utilizing different scanning modes of a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer, combined with the UV-Vis detection was demonstrated to be a powerful approach to detection and identification of dyes in the extracts of archeological textiles. Using this approach the following compounds were identified in the extracts of Coptic textiles: luteolin, apigenin, rhamnetin, kaempferol, alizarin, purpurin, xanthopurpurin, monochloroalizarin, indirubin, and so the type of dye that was utilized to dye the textiles could be identified. Detection capabilities for several dye-type analytes were compared for the UV-Vis and mass spectrometric detection. The signal-to-noise ratios obtained for luteolin, apigenin, and rhamnetin were higher for the MS detection for most of the examined sample extracts. Purpurin, alizarin, and indirubin showed similar signal-to-noise ratios for UV-Vis and mass spectrometric detection.

Identification of natural dyes in archeological Coptic textiles by liquid chromatography with diode array detection

Reversed-phase HPLC with diode-array UV-Vis spectrophotometric detection has been used for identification of natural dyes in extracts from wool and silk fibres from archeological textiles. The examined objects originate from 4th to 12th Century Egypt and belong to the collection of Early Christian Art of the National Museum in Warsaw. Extraction from fibres was carried out with HCl solution containing ethanol or with warm pyridine. As the main individual chemical components of natural dyes, anthraquinone, indigoid and flavonoid dyes including alizarin, purpurin, luteolin, apigenin, carminic acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, laccaic acids A and B and indigotin were found. For pyridine extracts another mobile phase with an optimized gradient of organic modifier concentration was used. With such an eluent the appearance of double peaks for indigotin and indirubin was eliminated. For acidic extraction of dyes from fibres, ethanol was used. Due to its higher boiling point than methanol it evaporates slower from the extraction solution enabling a more efficient extraction of dyes.

Chromatographic Investigation of Dyes Extracted from Coptic Textiles from the National Museum in Warsaw

Abstract This work aimed to identify natural dyes in extracts from Coptic fibres. The objects examined originate from fourth- to twelfth-century AD Egypt. Chromatographic separations of all the samples were carried out using reversed-phase HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography) with UV-Vis detection and fluorescence detection. Fluorescence detection proved to be better than UV-Vis diode array detection for the determination of some compounds. Selected samples were analysed with HPLC-MS (HPLC-mass spectroscopy) which confirmed the LC-UV findings and allowed the detection and identification of additional compounds. Most of the dyes mentioned in the literature as having been used by Copts were detected: Armenian cochineal, flavonoid yellow dyes, indigotin, lac dye, madder and tannins. Some new compositions of significant colours were also discovered, which had not been reported previously in Coptic textiles. Elemental analysis using SEM-EDS (scanning electron microscopy–energy dispersive spectroscopy) was performed to identify mordants.

Identification of Natural Dyestuff in Archeological Coptic Textiles by HPLC with Fluorescence Detection

Abstract High performance liquid chromatography with UV–Vis detection and post-column derivatization with fluorimetric detection was used for analysis of dyes used in Coptic textiles. To obtain the best separation of analyzed compounds composition of mobile phase was optimized. The best results were obtained for 25 mM phosphoric buffer at pH 2.5 with gradient change of methanol concentration (Table 1). As post-column reagents used to enhance fluorescence signal of analyzed compounds, solutions of Al(III), Ga(III), In(III), and Zn(II) were used. The highest increase of fluorescence signal was observed for Ga(III) and 10 mM solution of this ion was used for investigation of plant extracts and extracts from Coptic textiles.

Capillary electrophoretic determination of main components of natural dyes with MS detection.

CE with UV-Vis and MS detections was investigated as a technique for detection of main components of selected natural dyes of plant and insect origin. The BGE giving the best separation of the investigated flavonoids and anthraquinoids, suitable for MS detection consisted of 40 mM ammonium acetate solution of pH 9.5 with 40% ACN. LODs obtained with MS detection were even one order of magnitude lower than the ones obtained with UV-Vis detection. Application of MS detection enabled determination of eleven dye compounds from three different chemical groups in 15 min. and proved to be more satisfactory than diode-array detection in the electrophoretic analysis of main classes of natural dyes both in terms of selectivity and sensitivity of analysis.