J.O. De Beer

Characterization of suspected illegal skin whitening cosmetics.

An important group of suspected illegal cosmetics consists of skin bleaching products, which are usually applied to the skin of the face, hands and décolleté for local depigmentation of hyper pigmented regions or more importantly, for a generalized reduction of the skin tone. These cosmetic products are suspected to contain illegal active substances that may provoke as well local as systemic toxic effects, being the reason for their banning from the EU market. In that respect, illegal and restricted substances in cosmetics, known to have bleaching properties, are in particular hydroquinone, tretinoin and corticosteroids. From a legislative point of view, all cosmetic products containing a prohibited whitening agent are illegal and must be taken off the EU market. A newly developed screening method using ultra high performance liquid chromatography-time off flight-mass spectrometry allows routine analysis of suspected products. 163 suspected skin whitening cosmetics, collected by Belgian inspectors at high risk sites such as airports and so-called ethnic cosmetic shops, were analyzed and 59% were classified as illegal. The whitening agents mostly detected were clobetasol propionate and hydroquinone, which represent a serious health risk when repeatedly and abundantly applied to the skin.

Development and validation of a fast chromatographic method for screening and quantification of legal and illegal skin whitening agents.

During the last years, the EU market is flooded by illegal cosmetics via the Internet and a so-called black market. Among these, skin-bleaching products represent an important group. They contain, according to the current European cosmetic legislation (Directive 76/768/EEC), a number of illegal active substances including hydroquinone, tretinoin and corticosteroids. These may provoke as well local as systemic toxic effects, being the reason for their banning from the EU market. To control this market there is a need for a fast screening method capable of detecting illegal ingredients in the wide variety of existing bleaching cosmetic formulations. In this paper the development and validation of an ultra high pressure liquid chromatographic (UHPLC) method is described. The proposed method makes use of a Waters Acquity BEH shield RP18 column with a gradient using 25 mM ammonium borate buffer (pH 10) and acetonitrile. This method is not only able to detect the major illegal (hydroquinone, tretinoin and six dermatologic active corticosteroids) and legal whitening agents, the latter having restrictions with respect to concentration and application (kojic acid, arbutin, nicotinamide and salicylic acid), but can also quantify these in a run time of 12 min. The method was successfully validated using the total error approach in accordance with the validation requirements of ISO-17025. During the validation a variety of cosmetic matrices including creams, lotions and soaps were taken into consideration.

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and chemometrics: An interesting tool to discriminate and characterize counterfeit medicines.

Counterfeit medicines pose a huge threat to public health worldwide. High amounts of counterfeit pharmaceuticals enter the European market and therefore detection of these products is essential. Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier-Transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) might be useful for the screening of counterfeit medicines since it is easy to use and little sample preparation is required. Furthermore, this approach might be helpful to customs to obtain a first evaluation of suspected samples. This study proposes a combination of ATR-FTIR and chemometrics to discriminate and classify counterfeit medicines. A sample set, containing 209 samples in total, was analyzed using ATR-FTIR and the obtained spectra were used as fingerprints in the chemometric data-analysis which included Principal Component Analysis (PCA), k-Nearest Neighbours (k-NN), Classification and Regression Trees (CART) and Soft Independent Modelling of Class Analogy (SIMCA). First it was verified whether the mentioned techniques are capable to distinguish samples containing different active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). PCA showed a clear tendency of discrimination based on the API present; k-NN, CART and SIMCA were capable to create suitable prediction models based on the presence of different APIs. However k-NN performs the least while SIMCA performs the best. Secondly, it was tested whether these three models could be expanded to discriminate between genuine and counterfeit samples as well. k-NN was not able to make the desired discrimination and therefore it was not useful. CART performed better but also this model was less suited. SIMCA, on the other hand, resulted in a model with a 100% correct discrimination between genuine and counterfeit drugs. This study shows that chemometric analysis of ATR-FTIR fingerprints is a valuable tool to discriminate genuine from counterfeit samples and to classify counterfeit medicines.

Detection of sibutramine in adulterated dietary supplements using attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy

Sibutramine is one of the most occurring adulterants encountered in dietary supplements with slimming as indication. These adulterated dietary supplements often contain a herbal matrix. When customs intercept these kind of supplements it is almost impossible to discriminate between the legal products and the adulterated ones, due to misleading packaging. Therefore in most cases these products are confiscated and send to laboratories for analysis. This results inherently in the confiscation of legal, non-adulterated products. Therefore there is a need for easy to use equipment and techniques to perform an initial screening of samples. Attenuated total reflectance-infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy was evaluated for the detection of sibutramine in adulterated dietary supplements. Data interpretation was performed using different basic chemometric techniques. It was found that the use of ATR-IR combined with the k-Nearest Neighbours (k-NN) was able to detect all adulterated dietary supplements in an external test set and this with a minimum of false positive results. This means that a small amount of legal products will still be confiscated and analyzed in a laboratory to be found negative, but no adulterated samples will pass the initial ATR-IR screening.

Chemometrics and chromatographic fingerprints to discriminate and classify counterfeit medicines containing PDE-5 inhibitors.

Chromatographic fingerprints recorded for a set of genuine and counterfeit samples of Viagra(®) and Cialis(®) were evaluated for their use in the detection and classification of counterfeit samples of these groups of medicines. Therefore several exploratory chemometric techniques were applied to reveal structures in the data sets as well as differences among the samples. The focus was on the differentiation between genuine and counterfeit samples and on the differences between the samples of the different classes of counterfeits as defined by the Dutch National Institute for Public Health and the Environment (RIVM). In a second part the revealed differences between the samples were modelled to obtain a predictive model for both the differentiation between genuine and counterfeit samples as well as the classification of the counterfeit samples. The exploratory analysis clearly revealed differences in the data for the genuine and the counterfeit samples and with projection pursuit and hierarchical clustering differences among the different groups of counterfeits could be revealed, especially for the Viagra(®) data set. For both data sets predictive models were obtained with 100% correct classification rates for the differentiation between genuine and counterfeit medicines and high correct classification rates for the classification in the different classes of counterfeit medicines. For both data sets the best performing models were obtained with Least Square-Support Vector Machines (LS-SVM) and Soft Independent Modelling by Class Analogy (SIMCA).

Headspace–gas chromatographic fingerprints to discriminate and classify counterfeit medicines

Counterfeit medicines are a global threat to public health. These pharmaceuticals are not subjected to quality control and therefore their safety, quality and efficacy cannot be guaranteed. Today, the safety evaluation of counterfeit medicines is mainly based on the identification and quantification of the active substances present. However, the analysis of potential toxic secondary components, like residual solvents, becomes more important. Assessment of residual solvent content and chemometric analysis of fingerprints might be useful in the discrimination between genuine and counterfeit pharmaceuticals. Moreover, the fingerprint approach might also contribute in the evaluation of the health risks different types of counterfeit medicines pose. In this study a number of genuine and counterfeit Viagra(®) and Cialis(®) samples were analyzed for residual solvent content using headspace-GC-MS. The obtained chromatograms were used as fingerprints and analyzed using different chemometric techniques: Principal Component Analysis, Projection Pursuit, Classification and Regression Trees and Soft Independent Modelling of Class Analogy. It was tested whether these techniques can distinguish genuine pharmaceuticals from counterfeit ones and if distinct types of counterfeits could be differentiated based on health risks. This chemometric analysis showed that for both data sets PCA clearly discriminated between genuine and counterfeit drugs, and SIMCA generated the best predictive models. This technique not only resulted in a 100% correct classification rate for the discrimination between genuine and counterfeit medicines, the classification of the counterfeit samples was also superior compared to CART. This study shows that chemometric analysis of headspace-GC impurity fingerprints allows to distinguish between genuine and counterfeit medicines and to differentiate between groups of counterfeit products based on the public health risks they pose.

HS–GC–MS method for the analysis of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices

Potential allergenic fragrances are part of the Cosmetic Regulation with labelling and concentration restrictions. This means that they have to be declared on the ingredients list, when their concentration exceeds the labelling limit of 10 ppm or 100 ppm for leave-on or rinse-off cosmetics, respectively. Labelling is important regarding consumer safety. In this way, sensitised people towards fragrances might select their products based on the ingredients list to prevent elicitation of an allergic reaction. It is therefore important to quantify potential allergenic ingredients in cosmetic products. An easy to perform liquid extraction was developed, combined with a new headspace GC-MS method. The latter was capable of analysing 24 volatile allergenic fragrances in complex cosmetic formulations, such as hydrophilic (O/W) and lipophilic (W/O) creams, lotions and gels. This method was successfully validated using the total error approach. The trueness deviations for all components were smaller than 8%, and the expectation tolerance limits did not exceed the acceptance limits of ± 20% at the labelling limit. The current methodology was used to analyse 18 cosmetic samples that were already identified as being illegal on the EU market for containing forbidden skin whitening substances. Our results showed that these cosmetic products also contained undeclared fragrances above the limit value for labelling, which imposes an additional health risk for the consumer.

Detection of whitening agents in illegal cosmetics using attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy

Cosmetic products containing illegal whitening agents are still found on the European market. They represent a considerable risk to public health, since they are often characterised by severe side effects when used chronically. The detection of such products at customs is not always simple, due to misleading packaging and the existence of products containing only legal components. Therefore there is a need for easy to use equipment and techniques to perform an initial screening of samples. The use of attenuated total reflectance-infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy, combined with chemometrics, was evaluated for that purpose. It was found that the combination of ATR-IR with the simple chemometric technique k-nearest neighbours gave good results. A model was obtained in which a minimum of illegal samples was categorised as legal. The correctly classified illegal samples could be attributed to the illegal components present.

Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe

Lightening skin tone is an ancient and well‐documented practice, and remains common practice among many cultures. Whitening agents such as corticosteroids, tretinoin and hydroquinone are medically applied to effectively lighten the skin tone of hyperpigmented lesions. However, when these agents are used cosmetically, they are associated with a variety of side‐effect. Alternative agents, such as arbutin and its derivatives kojic acid and nicotinamide have been subsequently developed for cosmetic purposes. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain whitening agents that are banned for use in cosmetic products. This article provides an overview of the mode of action and potential side‐effects of cosmetic legal and illegal whitening agents, and the pattern of use of these types of products. Finally, an EU analysis of the health problems due to the presence of illegal products on the market is summarized.

Development of a Stationary Phase Optimised Selectivity Liquid Chromatography based screening method for adulterations of food supplements for the treatment of pain.

Illegally adulterated dietary supplements are an increasing problem worldwide. One of the important groups of often adulterated products are the dietary supplements, sold for the treatment of pain. These often contain analgesics, a heterogeneous group of molecules, containing both hydrophilic and hydrophobic compounds. The development of a screening method for these components, especially when mass spectrometric detection is not available, necessitates chromatographic separation, difficult to achieve with traditional chromatographic columns. In this paper Stationary Phase Optimised Selectivity Liquid Chromatography was used for the development of a screening method for nine analgesics, codeine and caffeine, often present in this type of dietary supplements. The method shows a good separation of all the compounds, allowing the screening to be performed with diode array detection and is fully compatible with mass spectrometry. The method was validated for its selectivity following the guidelines as described for the screening of pesticide residues and residues of veterinary medicines in food.