Jean-Paul Parisot

Tidal bore dynamics in funnel-shaped estuaries

The formation and dynamics of tidal bores in funnel-shaped estuaries is investigated from both a global tidal wave scaling analysis and new quantitative field observations. We show that tidal bore occurrence in convergent estuaries can be estimated from a dimensionless scaling parameter characterizing the relative intensity of nonlinear friction versus local inertia in the momentum equation. A detailed analysis of tidal bore formation and secondary wave structure is presented from a unique long-term database (observations of more than 200 tides) acquired during four campaigns in the two main French tidal-bore estuaries: the Seine and Gironde/Garonne estuaries. We describe the effect of freshwater discharge on the global tidal wave transformation at the estuarine scale and on local tidal bore occurrence in the upper estuary. Our field data suggest that the tidal bore intensity is mainly governed by the dimensionless tidal range, which characterizes the local tidal wave nonlinearity. We also show that the secondary wavefield associated with tidal bore propagating in natural estuaries differs significantly from those associated to undular bores in rectangular channels. In particular, we observe an abrupt decrease of the whelp steepness when the Froude number goes below 1.1. This secondary field transition can explain why tidal bore occurrence in worldwide estuaries is certainly underestimated.

Video-Based Detection of Shorelines at Complex Meso-Macro Tidal Beaches

Abstract Almar, R.; Ranasinghe, R.; Sénéchal, N.; Bonneton, P.; Roelvink, D.; Bryan, K.R.; Marieu, V., and Parisot, J-P., 2012. Video-based detection of shorelines at complex meso–macro tidal beaches. Remote video imagery is widely used to acquire measurements of intertidal topography by means of shoreline detection, but, up to now, problems of accuracy were still encountered in the challenging case of energetic waves in nonuniform, meso–macro tidal environments. Unique, simultaneous, video-based and global positioning system (GPS)–based measurements of shoreline were undertaken at Truc Vert (France), a beach with such characteristics. An innovative video method, referred to herein as the Minimum Shoreline Variability (MSV) method, was developed to cope with highly variable spatiotemporal shoreline properties. The comparison of video-based and GPS-derived shoreline data sets showed that using images averaged over short periods (30 s), rather than the traditionally used 10-min averaged images, significantly improved the accuracy of shoreline determination. A local video-derived, swash-based shoreline correction was also developed to correct for the MSV error, which was found to be linearly correlated to local swash length. By combining shorter time-averaged images and video derived local swash correction factors, the horizontal root mean square error associated with MSV shorelines was reduced to 1.2 m, which is equivalent to errors reported at more uniform, microtidal, and less-energetic beaches.

Silicic acid flux to the ocean from tidal permeable sediments: A modeling study

Sandy sediments of tidal beaches are poor in reactive substances because they are regularly flushed by significant flow caused by tidal forcing. This transport process may significantly affect the flux of reactive solutes to the ocean. A two dimensional model coupling the Richards equation that describes the flow in permeable sediments and the conservation equation of the silicic acid was developed to simulate the evolution of the silicic acid concentration into a variably saturated porous media submitted to tidal forcing. A detailed algorithm of drainage zone under tidal forcing and numerical methods needed to solve it are properly presented. Flux to the ocean has been estimated. The silicic acid concentration displays a permanent lens with low silicic acid concentration at the top of the tidal zone. This lens that results from the tidal forcing, presents weak variations of area during the tidal cycle. Silicic outflux to the ocean increases with increasing beach slope, hydraulic conductivity and tidal range. Simulations reveal that the total silicic acid flux to the ocean from the coastal marine sands can be considered as significant compared to the flux supplied by the rivers. These results may alter the previously published global budget of the silicic acid to the ocean.

Monitoring Sea Level and Topography of Coastal Lagoons Using Satellite Radar Altimetry: The Example of the Arcachon Bay in the Bay of Biscay

Radar altimetry was initially designed to measure the marine geoid. Thanks to the improvement in the orbit determination from the meter to the centimeter level, this technique has been providing accurate measurements of the sea surface topography over the open ocean since the launch of Topex/Poseidon in 1992. In spite of a decrease in the performance over land and coastal areas, it is now commonly used over these surfaces. This study presents a semi-automatic method that allows us to discriminate between acquisitions performed at high tides and low tides. The performances of four radar altimetry missions (ERS-2, ENVISAT, SARAL, and CryoSat-2) were analyzed for the retrieval of sea surface height and, for the very first time, of the intertidal zone topography in a coastal lagoon. The study area is the Arcachon Bay located in the Bay of Biscay. The sea level variability of the Arcachon Bay is characterized by a standard deviation of 1.05 m for the records used in this study (2001–2017). Sea surface heights are very well retrieved for SARAL (R~0.99 and RMSE 0.93 and RMSE 0.82 but with a higher RMSE >0.92 m). For the topography of the intertidal zone, very good estimates were also obtained using SARAL (R~0.71) and CryoSat-2 (R~0.79) with RMSE lower than 0.44 m for both missions.

Rip current system over strong alongshore non-uniformities: on the use of HADCP for model validation

Modeling and understanding topographically-controlled rip currents remains a challenging task. One of the reasons is the lack of intensive, high-spatial resolution, flow field measurements in the rip channel vicinity. During the ECORS (DGA-SHOM) intensive field measurements, an intertidal inner-bar rip channel was instrumented with fixed eulerian current meters. In addition, for the first time in such a system, a Horizontal ADCP (HADCP) was implemented in the vicinity of the rip current, on the sandbar edge, for horizontally profiling wave induced-currents. Results show that the HADCP provides unique information on the shear in the vicinity of the rip neck, which is particularly useful for model calibration. The HADCP data was compared with local flow measurements for various tide and wave conditions, showing a very good agreement at a 5 m range. Restrictions and recommendations for HADCP implementation in the field are pointed out. The use of HADCP for horizontally profiling rip current circulations would benefit from being deployed outside of the breakers to measure the cross section of the rip head where sediment plumes and bubbles are essentially surface dominated. In this rip current system area, which would suffer from acoustic opacity only during high energy conditions, the rip current jet is strongly unstable owing to the current shear. HADCP would provide unique information on the rip current instabilities and vortex shedding in this poorly understood area of the rip current system.