Joachim W. Fluhr

The tape stripping procedure ― evaluation of some critical parameters

Tape stripping is a simple and efficient method for the assessment of quality and efficacy of cosmetical and dermatological formulations. After topical application and penetration of formulations, the cell layers of the stratum corneum are successively removed from the same skin area using adhesive films. The tape strips contain the amount of corneocytes and the corresponding amount of the penetrated formulation, which can be determined by classical analytical chemical methods. Different formulations can strongly influence the amount of stratum corneum removed with every tape strip. Therefore, it is essential for the comparison of the penetration of different formulations that the amount of formulation detected on the single tape strip is not related to the tape strip number as a relative measure of the penetration depths, but to their standardized real position in the stratum corneum. Therefore, different methods are reported for the determination of the amount of stratum corneum removed with every tape strip. The tape stripping method in its standardized form is well-suited to determine the dermatopharmacokinetics of topically applied substances. Additionally, the method can be used to obtain information about the homogeneity and the distribution of formulations on the skin and in the stratum corneum. This is used, e.g., for the determination of the homogeneity of the distribution and the ex vivo determination of a universal sun protection factor (USPF) characterizing the efficacy of sunscreens.

Transepidermal water loss reflects permeability barrier status: validation in human and rodent in vivo and ex vivo models

Abstract:  Permeability barrier function is measured with instruments that assess transepidermal water loss (TEWL), either with closed‐ or open‐loop systems. Yet, the validity of TEWL as a measure of barrier status has been questioned recently. Hence, we tested the validity of this measure by comparing TEWL across a wide range of perturbations, with a variety of methods, and in a variety of models. TEWL rates with two closed‐chamber systems (VapoMeter and H4300) and one closed‐loop system (MEECO) under different experimental in vivo conditions were compared with data from four open‐loop instruments, i.e. TM 210, TM 300, DermaLab and EP 1. The instruments were compared in vivo both in humans and hairless mice skin subjected to different degrees of acute barrier disruption. The values obtained with bioengineering systems were correlated with absolute water loss rates, determined gravimetrically. Measurements with both closed and open systems correlated not only with each other, but each method detected different degrees of barrier dysfunction. Although all instruments differentiated among gradations in TEWL in the mid‐range of barrier disruption in vivo, differences in very low and very high levels of disruption were less accurately measured with the H4300 and DermaLab systems. Nevertheless, a high Pearson correlation coefficient (r) was calculated for data from all instruments vs. gravimetrically assessed TEWL. Together, these results verify the utility of TEWL as a measure of permeability barrier status. Moreover, all tested instruments are reliable tools for the assessment of variations in permeability barrier function.

Beneficial Long-Term Effects of Combined Oral/Topical Antioxidant Treatment with the Carotenoids Lutein and Zeaxanthin on Human Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study

Background: The skin is exposed to numerous environmental assaults that can lead to premature aging. Of these agents, perhaps none is more ubiquitous than the ultraviolet (UV) wavelengths of sunlight. The primary immediate defense against environmental skin damage is the antioxidant capacity of the skin. However, this defense system can be compromised by moderate exposure to UV light. Therefore, bolstering the antioxidant defense system of the skin is a potentially important strategy for reducing environmentally induced skin damage. Aim of the Study: This clinical trial was designed to study the efficacy of lutein and zeaxanthin, two potentially important antioxidants found naturally in the skin, upon five skin physiology parameters (surface lipids, hydration, photoprotective activity, skin elasticity and skin lipid peroxidation – malondialdehyde) of human subjects. These xanthophyllic carotenoids were administered either orally, topically, or in combination (both oral and topical routes). Results: The results obtained indicate that the combined oral and topical administration of lutein and zeaxanthin provides the highest degree of antioxidant protection. However, oral and topical administration of these antioxidants individually also provides significant activity in the skin. In addition, oral administration of lutein may provide better protection than that afforded by topical application of this antioxidant when measured by changes in lipid peroxidation and photoprotective activity in the skin following UV light irradiation.

Glycerol accelerates recovery of barrier function in vivo

Two studies were performed to evaluate the influence of glycerol on the recovery of damaged stratum corneum barrier function. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and capacitance were conducted in a 3-day follow-up after tape stripping (study 1) and a 7-day follow-up after a barrier damage due to a repeated washing with sodium lauryl sulphate. In study 1 a faster barrier repair (transepidermal water loss) was monitored in glycerol-treated sites. Significant differences between glycerol open vs. untreated and glycerol occluded vs. untreated were observed at day 3. Stratum corneum hydration showed significantly higher values in the sites treated with glycerol+occlusion, compared with all other sites. In study 2 a faster barrier repair was seen in glycerol-treated sites, with significant differences against untreated and base-treated sites 7 days after the end of the treatment. Stratum corneum hydration showed highest values in the glycerol treated sites after 3 days of treatment. Glycerol creates a stimulus for barrier repair and improves the stratum corneum hydration; stratum corneum hydration is not strictly related to barrier homeostasis and can be optimized by different mechanisms and pathways. The observed effects were based on the modulation of barrier repair and were not biased by the humectant effect of glycerol. As the glycerol-induced recovery of barrier function and stratum corneum hydration were observed even 7 days after the end of treatment, glycerol can be regarded as a barrier stabilizing and moisturizing compound.

Increased stratum corneum serine protease activity in acute eczematous atopic skin

Background  Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory disease associated with changes in stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. The breakdown of epidermal barrier function in AD is associated with changes in corneocyte size and maturation, desquamation, lipid profiles, and some protease activities.

Non-invasive in vivo methods for investigation of the skin barrier physical properties.

Skin as an organ of protection covers the body and accomplishes multiple defensive functions. The intact skin represents a barrier to the uncontrolled loss of water, proteins, and plasma components from the organism. Due to its complex structure, the epidermal barrier with its major component, stratum corneum, is the rate-limiting unit for the penetration of exogenous substances through the skin. The epidermal barrier is not a static structure. The permeability barrier status can be modified by different external and internal factors such as climate, physical stressors, and a number of skin and systemic diseases. Today, different non-invasive approaches are used to monitor the skin barrier physical properties in vivo. The quantification of parameters such as transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, and skin surface acidity is essential for the integral evaluation of the epidermal barrier status. Novel methods such as in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy offer the possibility for precise and detailed characterization of the skin barrier. This paper will allow the readership to get acquainted with the non-invasive, in vivo methods for the investigation of the skin barrier.

Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions

Glycerol is a trihydroxy alcohol that has been included for many years in topical dermatological preparations. In addition, endogenous glycerol plays a role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity and epidermal barrier repair. The aquaporin‐3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit have been evidenced as potential pathways for endogenous delivery of glycerol and for its metabolism in the skin. Multiple effects of glycerol on the skin have been reported. The diverse actions of the polyol glycerol on the epidermis include improvement of stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier function and skin mechanical properties, inhibition of the stratum corneum lipid phase transition, protection against irritating stimuli, enhancement of desmosomal degradation, and acceleration of wound‐healing processes. Even an antimicrobial effect has been demonstrated. Topical application of glycerol‐containing products improves skin properties in diseases characterized by xerosis and impaired epidermal barrier function, such as atopic dermatitis. The increase of epidermal hydration by glycerol is critical in skin conditions aggravated by dry and cold environmental conditions, e.g. winter xerosis. This paper provides a review on effects of glycerol on the skin, the mechanisms of its action, and the potential applications of glycerol in dermatology.

Natural moisturizing factor components in the stratum corneum as biomarkers of filaggrin genotype: evaluation of minimally invasive methods

Background  The carriers of loss‐of‐function mutations in the filaggrin gene (FLG) have reduced levels of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum. The concentration of NMF components which are formed by filaggrin protein breakdown in the stratum corneum might therefore be useful as a biomarker of the FLG genotype.

Comparative study of five instruments measuring stratum corneum hydration (Corneometer CM 820 and CM 825, Skicon 200, Nova DPM 9003, DermaLab). Part I. In vitro

Background/aims: The hydration state of stratum corneum can be measured with different instruments. In the present study, five instruments were compared under different experimental in vitro conditions: Corneometer CM 820 and CM 825, Skicon 200, Nova DPM and DermaLab.

Morphological skin ageing criteria by multiphoton laser scanning tomography: non‐invasive in vivo scoring of the dermal fibre network

Background:  Morphological changes in the dermal collagen and elastin fibre network are characteristic for skin ageing and for pathological skin conditions of the dermis.