Joep van der Zanden

Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

A large-scale wave flume experiment has been carried out involving a T = 4 s regular wave with H = 0.85 m wave height plunging over a fixed barred beach profile. Velocity profiles were measured at 12 locations along the breaker bar using LDA and ADV. A strong undertow is generated reaching magnitudes of 0.8 m/s on the shoreward side of the breaker bar. A circulation pattern occurs between the breaking area and the inner surf zone. Time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is largest in the breaking area on the shoreward side of the bar where the plunging jet penetrates the water column. At this location, and on the bar crest, TKE generated at the water surface in the breaking process reaches the bottom boundary layer. In the breaking area, TKE does not reduce to zero within a wave cycle which leads to a high level of “residual” turbulence and therefore lower temporal variation in TKE compared to previous studies of breaking waves on plane beach slopes. It is argued that this residual turbulence results from the breaker bar-trough geometry, which enables larger length scales and time scales of breaking-generated vortices and which enhances turbulence production within the water column compared to plane beaches. Transport of TKE is dominated by the undertow-related flux, whereas the wave-related and turbulent fluxes are approximately an order of magnitude smaller. Turbulence production and dissipation are largest in the breaker zone and of similar magnitude, but in the shoaling zone and inner surf zone production is negligible and dissipation dominates.

Sand transport process measurements under large-scale braking waves

The effects of wave breaking on sediment transport are studied through a new series of mobile-bed experiments in a large-scale wave flume. During the campaign, one experiment involving detailed sand transport process measurements was repeated at 12 different cross-shore location. This procedure allows studying of the cross-shore variation of sand transport processes along the breaking zone. Starting from an initially 1:10 slope followed by a horizontal test section, a breaker bar developed in the breaking region as a result of onshore transport pre-breaking and offshore transport post-breaking. Near-bed suspended sediment fluxes were directed offshore along the complete test section, suggesting that the onshore transport pre-breaking is mainly attributed to bedload. The offshore suspended flux was the sum of an onshore wave-driven component and an offshore current-driven component. The wave-driven contribution to total suspended transport rates seems significant mainly before the breaking point where they account for ~30% of total suspended transport fluxes.

Testing of the new SANTOSS transport formula in the Delft3D morphological modelling system

Abstract: Recently, the SANTOSS practical sand transport model was developed. This paper describes the implementation and testing of this formula in the Delft3D morphological modeling system. This is done based on a compressive set of hydrodynamic and sand transport from two largedata Delta Flume -scale experiments. It is shown that the measured net transport is a delicate balance between offshoredirected suspended load due to undertow and onshore- -directed near-bed transport due to wave asymmetry and skewness effects. The Delft3D model is able to reproduce the importance of current-related suspended load the for the highwave cases (leading to offshore breaker - migration), as well as the bar onshore net transport for the lower-wave case (onshore bar migration). The mismatch between measured andcalculated near -bed transport is most apparent near the breaker bar. 1. Introduction Engineering morphological models (e.g. Delft3D, Mike, Telemac) are frequently used in coastal engineering practice to predict coastal evolution due to the combined influence of natural processes and human interferences. The resolved physics are fairly simple to keep computational times within practical limits, and therefore these models include a large number of parameterisations to account for unresolved processes. These parameterisations are usually not very well-founded on experimental data nor on fundamental understanding of the underlying hydrodynamic and sand transport processes. This especially applies to wave-driven cross-shore processes that are highly variable in time and space. As a consequence, the performance of engineering models in predicting beach and shoreline evolution is poor. For example, Van Rijn et al. (2011) showed that Delft3D systematically overpredicted measured beach erosion. This mismatch was so severe for accretive, low-wave conditions that the initial bed level was a better prediction of the final bed level than the Delft3D computation. 100 17/03/201514 pp

Near-Bed Turbulent Kinetic Energy Budget Under a Large-Scale Plunging Breaking Wave Over a Fixed Bar: TKE BUDGET UNDER BREAKING WAVES

Hydrodynamics under regular plunging breaking waves over a fixed breaker bar were studied in a large-scale wave flume. A previous paper reported on the outer flow hydrodynamics; the present paper focuses on the turbulence dynamics near the bed (up to 0.10 m from the bed). Velocities were measured with high spatial and temporal resolution using a two component laser Doppler anemometer. The results show that even at close distance from the bed (1 mm), the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) increases by a factor five between the shoaling, and breaking regions because of invasion of wave breaking turbulence. The sign and phase behavior of the time-dependent Reynolds shear stresses at elevations up to approximately 0.02 m from the bed (roughly twice the elevation of the boundary layer overshoot) are mainly controlled by local bed-shear-generated turbulence, but at higher elevations Reynolds stresses are controlled by wave breaking turbulence. The measurements are subsequently analyzed to investigate the TKE budget at wave-averaged and intrawave time scales. Horizontal and vertical turbulence advection, production, and dissipation are the major terms. A two-dimensional wave-averaged circulation drives advection of wave breaking turbulence through the near-bed layer, resulting in a net downward influx in the bar trough region, followed by seaward advection along the bars shoreward slope, and an upward outflux above the bar crest. The strongly nonuniform flow across the bar combined with the presence of anisotropic turbulence enhances turbulent production rates near the bed.