Juliane Reuter

Botanicals in Dermatology: An Evidence-Based Review

Botanical extracts and single compounds are increasingly used in cosmetics but also in over-the-counter drugs and food supplements. The focus of the present review is on controlled clinical trials with botanicals in the treatment of acne, inflammatory skin diseases, skin infections, UV-induced skin damage, skin cancer, alopecia, vitiligo, and wounds. Studies with botanical cosmetics and drugs are discussed, as well as studies with botanical food supplements. Experimental research on botanicals was considered to a limited extent when it seemed promising for clinical use in the near future.In acne therapy, Mahonia, tea tree oil, and Saccharomyces may have the potential to become standard treatments. Mahonia, Hypericum, Glycyrrhiza and some traditional Chinese medicines appear promising for atopic dermatitis. Some plant-derived substances like dithranol and methoxsalen (8-methoxypsoralen) [in combination with UVA] are already accepted as standard treatments in psoriasis; Mahonia and Capsicum (capsaicin) are the next candidates suggested by present evidence. Oral administration and topical application of antioxidant plant extracts (green and black tea, carotenoids, coffee, and many flavonoids from fruits and vegetables) can protect skin from UV-induced erythema, early aging, and irradiation-induced cancer. Hair loss and vitiligo are also traditional fields of application for botanicals.According to the number and quality of clinical trials with botanicals, the best evidence exists for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, i.e. atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. However, many more controlled clinical studies are needed to determine the efficacy and risks of plant-derived products in dermatology. Safety aspects, especially related to sensitization and photodermatitis, have to be taken into account. Therefore, clinicians should not only be informed of the beneficial effects but also the specific adverse effects of botanicals used for dermatologic disorders and cosmetic purposes.

Treatment of actinic keratoses with a novel betulin‐based oleogel. A prospective, randomized, comparative pilot study

Background: Actinic keratoses (AK) are squamous cell carcinomas in situ and require treatment. Betulin‐based oleogel prepared from a standardized triter‐pene dry extract from birch bark represents a new topical agent with anti‐inflammatory and anti‐tumor potential.

Topical application of solubilized Reseda luteola extract reduces ultraviolet B-induced inflammation in vivo.

We investigated the skin tolerance and anti-inflammatory potential of a nanoparticular solubilisate of a luteolin-rich Reseda extract (s-RE) in two independent studies in vivo. Reseda luteola extract containing 40% flavonoids was solubilized with polysorbate, resulting in product micelles with a diameter of 10 (+/-1.5)nm. Standardized inflammation was induced by irradiating test areas on the back of healthy volunteers with defined doses of ultraviolet B (UVB). In the first study different concentrations of s-RE were tested in 10 volunteers to evaluate dose-dependency of anti-inflammatory effects of s-RE. In the second randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study a defined concentration of s-RE (2.5%w/w) was tested in 40 volunteers in comparison to the vehicle (glycerol) and hydrocortisone (1%w/w). s-RE dose-dependently reduced UVB-induced erythema when applied 30 min before irradiation. To a lesser extent, topical application of s-RE after irradiation also reduced UVB-induced erythema. s-RE was as effective as hydrocortisone, whereas the vehicle had no effect. Occlusive application of s-RE on non-irradiated test sites did not cause any skin irritation. Due to excellent skin tolerance combined with potent anti-inflammatory properties s-RE bears potential especially for the prevention but also for the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions such as UV-induced erythema.

Anti‐inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test

Background: Coriander oil is used as an antimicrobial agent and as a natural fragrance. The present study investigated the anti‐inflammatory potency of coriander oil in the ultraviolet (UV) erythema test in vivo.

Anti-inflammatory effect of pimecrolimus in the sodium lauryl sulphate test.

Background  Pimecrolimus is a calcineurin inhibitor used for the topical treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. We have shown previously that pimecrolimus cream is not effective on intact skin in the ultraviolet erythema test.