K. Todd Holland

Analysis of the scale of errors in nearshore bathymetric data

Most studies of nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphology focus on bathymetric variability within a narrow band of spatial and temporal scales. Typically, these studies rely on bathymetry estimates derived from field observations consisting of discrete samples in space and time with varying degrees of measurement error. Sampling limitations, which result in aliasing, and measurement errors can significantly contaminate variability at resolved scales, and may lead to large errors in the representation of the scales of interest. Using a spectral analysis, interpolation errors were analyzed for three different nearshore bathymetric data sets, each of which targeted a different range of spatial scales. Bathymetric features that were unresolved or poorly resolved (e.g. beach cusps) introduced the potential for contamination in two of the data sets. This contamination was significantly reduced using an appropriate scale-controlled interpolation method, leading to more accurate representations of the actual bathymetry. An additional benefit of using scale-controlled interpolation is that interpolation errors may be estimated independently of actual observations, which allows one to design bathymetric sampling strategies that ensure that dominant scales are either resolved or largely removed. Finally, interpolation errors corresponding to a particular sample design can be used to determine which interpolated values contribute usefully to a band-limited analysis of bathymetric variability.

Estimating swash zone friction coefficients on a sandy beach

Abstract Video-based swash motions from three studies (on two separate beaches) were analyzed with respect to theoretical swash trajectories assuming plane beach ballistic motions under quadratic friction. Friction coefficient values for both the uprush and backwash were estimated by comparing measured swash space–time trajectories to these theoretical expectations given an initial velocity and beach slope. Observations were made spanning high tides, and in one case, during a light rain. Analysis of over 4500 individual swash events showed that the uprush friction coefficient was nearly constant during all three studies with a mean value of roughly 0.007 and showed no trends over a tidal cycle. In contrast, backwash friction coefficient values varied over the tidal cycles ranging between 0.01 and 0.07 with minimum values corresponding to the highest tides. Although these values are close to the theoretical estimates based on a Law of the Wall formulation and values commonly referenced in the literature, these observations show a consistent tendency for backwash friction estimates to greatly exceed uprush friction estimates. The disparity between uprush and backwash friction coefficients can be partially attributed to the exclusion of a pressure gradient term in the ballistic model. However, results indicate that backwash friction coefficients adjusted to account for this effect may be three times larger than the uprush friction values during lower tides. This tidal dependence for backwash friction coefficients is attributed to a complex interaction between swash infiltration and entrained sediment loads. These findings imply that friction estimates (necessary for sediment transport calculations and hydrodynamic predictions) based solely on grain roughness may not be correct for backwash flows.

Fast, large-scale, particle image velocimetry-based estimations of river surface velocity

A modified high-speed implementation of cross-correlation (CC) based, large-scale particle image velocimetry (LSPIV) was used to estimate the surface velocity of a river with video collected from a gray-scale camera. To improve the quality of results in the high-noise low-signal environment, we introduce a temporal correlation averaging (TCA) scheme that merges a small number of correlation surfaces in the time domain. The TCA scheme is combined with a multi-size macroblock (MMB) sampling method that provides correlation scores from four different macroblock sizes. The TCA scheme is also used in conjunction with a signal-level indicator computed on the macroblock. The signal-level indicator is used to reject correlation scores prior to computation and helps to keep noisy results out of the TCA. These modifications were tested by comparing LSPIV calculations to Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler measurements. The percent difference of measured velocity between LSPIV with TCA and MMB and without TCA and MMB when compared to the ADCP was reduced by as much as 30%. The low processing cost of our modifications along with an efficient multithread implementation of LSPIV facilitates high speed processing of up to a few thousand vector points at rates that exceed the capture speed of common hardware. HighlightsWe introduce a modified LSPIV method that uses temporal correlation averaging.Results from the modified LSPIV method were compared with ADCP results.Agreement between ADCP and LSPIV is improved when using our modifications.Processing speed remains consistent with unmodified LSPIV.

THE INFLUENCE OF MUD ON THE INNER SHELF, SHOREFACE, BEACH AND SURF ZONE MORPHODYNAMICS - CASSINO, SOUTHERN BRAZIL

The inner shelf, shoreface and beach at Cassino, located in the southernmost sector of the Brazilian coastline, are characterized by marked differences in grain size and sediment composition compared to adjacent areas. This lateral heterogeneity in sediment properties controls the geomorphology of the inner continental shelf and shoreface, and influences the shoreline accretion rate and beach morphodynamic behavior along a 25 Km stretch of coast. Short-term effects are associated with episodic events of mud deposition on the beach during heavy storms that often result in strong gradients in hydrodynamic processes. These gradients in turn influence the morphodynamic behaviors on the sectors affected by the mud deposits and can create coastal hazards relating to beach usage. These findings are almost certainly applicable in other regions where significant sediment heterogeneity exists.

SWASH ZONE MORPHODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

Field observations of swash zone flow patterns and 3D morphodynamics

Rapid video measurements of foreshore morphology and velocity were collected at Duck, NC in 1997 to investigate sediment transport processes in the swash zone. Estimates of foreshore evolution over a roughly 30 m cross-shore by 80 m alongshore study area were determined using a stereogrammetric technique. During the passage of a small storm (offshore wave heights increased from 1.4 to 2.5 m), the foreshore eroded nearly 40 cm in less than 4 hours. Dense, horizontal surface velocities were measured over a sub-region (roughly 30 m by 40 m) of the study area using a new particle image velocimetry technique. This technique was able to quantify velocities across the bore front approaching 5 m s –1 as well as the rapid velocities in the very shallow backwash flows. The velocity and foreshore topography measurements were used to test a three-dimensional energetics-based sediment transport model. Even though these data represent the most extensive and highly resolved swash measurements to date, the results showed that while the model could predict some of the qualitative trends in the observed foreshore change, it was a poor predictor of the observed magnitudes of foreshore change. Model — data comparisons differed by roughly an order of magnitude with observed foreshore changes on the order of 10s of centimeters and model predictions on the order of meters. This poor comparison suggests that future models of swash-zone sediment transport may require the inclusion of other physical processes such as bore turbulence, fluid accelerations and skewness, infiltration/exfiltration, water depth variations, and variable friction factors (to name a few).

Littoral environmental reconnaissance using tactical imagery from unmanned aircraft systems

The dynamic nature of littoral regions requires a reconnaissance approach that can rapidly quantify environmental conditions. Inadequate estimation of these conditions can have substantial impacts on the performance of Naval systems. Given that expeditionary warfare operations can occur over timescales on the order of hours, exploitation of video imagery from tactical vehicles such as Unmanned Aircraft Systems (UAS) has proved to be a reliable and adaptive solution. Tactical littoral products that can be created by exploiting UAS imagery include estimates of surf conditions, dominant wave period, wave direction, nearshore currents, and bathymetry. These vehicles can fly for durations of 1-2 hours at altitudes of less than 1000 m (beneath typical cloud cover) to obtain imagery at pixel resolutions better than 1 m. The main advantage of using imaging sensors carried by these vehicles is that the data is available in the region of operational interest where other data collection approaches would be difficult or impossible to employ. The through-the-sensor exploitation technique we have developed operates in two phases. The first step is to align individual image frames to a common reference and then georegister the alignment into a mapped image sequence. The second phase involves signal processing of pixel intensity time series (virtual sensors) to determine spatial relationships over time. Geophysical relationships, such as linear wave dispersion, can then be applied to these processed data to invert for environmental parameters such as bathymetry.