Kazimierz Furmańczyk

Modelling morphological changes of beach and dune induced by storm on the Southern Baltic coast using XBeach (case study: Dziwnow Spit)

ABSTRACT Bugajny, N., Furmańczyk, K., Dudzińska-Nowak, J., Paplińska-Swerpel, B., 2013. Modelling morphological changes of beach and dune induced by storm on the Southern Baltic coast using XBeach (case study: Dziwnow Spit) The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate the usefulness of XBeach model (1D) in modelling changes of beach and dune morphology in terms of significant storm influence at sandy Dziwnow Spit area located in the non-tidal Baltic Sea, on the western part of the Polish coast. Research were carried out in the framework of the MICORE project (7th FP) the main goal of which was to develop an operational early warning system for coastal hazard based on the XBeach model. For model calibration, one significant storm event registered in 2009 was simulated and compared against pre- and post-storm morphological data consisting of geodetic measurement and airborne laser scanning data. XBeach model has been run for 8 cross-shore profiles with different configuration of model parameters. The model skill were tested on the base of statistical descriptor BSS for the terrestrial part of the profiles. The highest BSS values varied from 0.54 to 0.90 depending on the profile. The best performance of XBeach model for each profile was obtained by deactivating longwave stirring lws and keeping hmin parameter value to 0.05 in all simulations. Values of wetslp equalled 0.3 or 0.4 while dryslp were 1 or 1.5. The facua parameter values oscillated between 0.1 and 0.5. The results show that XBeach is reasonably modelling morphological changes like dune and beach erosion induced by storm event in Southern Baltic conditions and can be successfully applied to create an effective tool for hazard prediction.

Important Features of Coastline Dynamics in Poland: “Nodal Points” and “Gates”

Two phenomena and their regularities, which are characteristic for the coastal zone, are presented in this paper. During the investigations, several series of historical aerial photographs of the Polish coast were utilised. The first phenomenon is connected to coastline changes and their regularities. Along the coast, stable areas and regions with high dynamics with respect to erosion and accumulation were found. Cross-shore current systems are linked to these stable points, called “nodal points”. The second investigated phenomenon are so-called “gates”. Gates are areas of the coastal zone, where spatially persistent cross-shore currents are observed. The importance of these aspects for coastal zone management is discussed.

Dune coast changes caused by weak storm events in Miedzywodzie, Poland

ABSTRACT Bugajny, N. and Furmańczyk, K., 2014. Dune coast changes caused by weak storm events in Miedzywodzie, Poland In: Green, A.N. and Cooper, J.A.G. (eds.), Proceedings 13th International Coastal Symposium (Durban, South Africa), Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 70, pp. 211–216, ISSN 0749-0208. This paper describes the impact of weak storm events on morphological changes of the sandy, non-tidal Southern Baltic coast. It was initially assumed that weak storms do not cause any significant changes on the coast, i.e. dune erosion. For this purpose, 14 RTK-GPS surveys were carried out during June to December 2012, consisting of a cross-shore profile every 100 m along a 2 km stretch of coast. Offshore wave data (WAM model) and water level data (tide gauge) were also collected. The hydrodynamic conditions were grouped into 3 groups by Wards hierarchical cluster analysis to investigate relationships with morphological changes on the coast. Correlation between volume changes and shoreline displacement for profiles and each group of hydrodynamic conditions were obtained. The correlation coefficient value for profiles ranged from R=0.41–0.91; and for groups R=0.79–0.82. It was found that for the first group (Hs<1 m), accumulation was observed almost in the whole area. For the second hydrodynamic group, some profiles accumulated while others experienced erosion. For the last group, erosion processes were dominant. The study reveals the oscillating nature of the coast within the study area. Volumetric changes between the first and last survey ranged from +0.8 m3/m to approximately −1.2 m3/m and the shoreline changed from rough to smooth.

Application of XBeach to model a storm response on a sandy spit at the southern Baltic

Abstract The process-based XBeach model has been used to simulate changes in beach and dune morphology in terms of influence of the significant storm event on the sandy Dziwnow Spit, located in the western part of the Polish coast. The research was carried out as part of the SatBałtyk project and represents the first stage of XBeach model application to create a system for recording the selected effects and hazards caused by current and expected storm events. The significant storm event, registered in 2009, was used for model calibration. Ten cross-shore profiles were selected and compared against preand post-storm morphological data. Model performance was verified on the basis of BSS values for the terrestrial part of the profiles. Verification of the results was performed using two different approaches: on the basis of the highest mean BSS value for all profiles together and for one set of parameters (approach no. 1) and on the basis of the highest BSS value for each profile and most adequate sets of parameters (approach no. 2). Additionally, the observed and modelled beach and dune volume changes were calculated. The research showed that the XBeach model is well capable of simulating the dune and beach erosion caused by the storm event, but the model requires site-specific calibration. High sensitivity of the XBeach model to the facua parameter was determined; the parameter defines the wave shape and affects the sediment transport. The best fit of the profiles was obtained for BSS, ranging between 0.71 and 0.93, with the parameter hmin = 0.01 or 0.05, facua = 0.2-0.5, wetslp = 0.2-0.4 and dryslp = 1 or 1.5. The volume estimation error ranged from + 0.6 m3 m-1 to -7.7 m3 m-1, which represents 2.7% to 31.6%.

Polish Spits and Barriers

The landscape of the areas occupied at present by the Polish coast was shaped by the Scandinavian ice sheet. The coast is dominated by morainic uplands and the lowland relief occurs in fragments of glacier lake sedimentary remains, on the bottom of ancient river valleys. About 5 Ka BP, the sea level was by 2.5 m lower that it is at present, the shoreline being shifted about 1–2 km seaward. As a result of a prolonged impact of the sea on the “soft” shore, the profile of the latter is generally even, with a dominance of barrier forms, specific for fluctuations of the sea level in the Holocene. At that time, underwater long shore bars were produced in shallow inshore areas as a result of interaction between the wave activity and the seafloor. As the sea level rose, the bars were gradually shifted towards the shore. Peninsulas can be found in the Gulf of Gdansk only, but they have evolved from barriers as well.

Factors and Processes Forming the Polish Southern Baltic Sea Coast on Various Temporal and Spatial Scales

The aim of the article is to define and characterize factors and processes forming the Southern Baltic Sea coast on various temporal and spatial scales including the interaction between morphodynamic effects. Waves, coastal currents, fluctuations in sea level, cliffs and seabed erosion, transport and accumulation of sediments are the most important processes, which formed the coastline of the Southern Baltic Sea over the past millennia and influenced its present form, with different types of coasts and specific forms of relief. These processes last unceasing and dynamically and interact with a contemporary coastal zone which is intensively transformed. In the coastal zone of Southern Baltic Sea, coastal systems have been identified with characteristic geological conditions, morphology and morphodynamics, which are acting in parallel on various temporal and spatial scales. Coastal systems acting simultaneously on different levels, overlap, causing a complex contemporary picture of the processes and forms. Spatial and temporal differentiation of structures and processes are to be considered in the Southern Baltic Sea for modelling approaches of coastal changes.

Validation of Empirical Wave Run-up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast

ABSTRACT Aniśkiewicz, P.; Benedyczak, R.; Furmańczyk K., and Andrzejewski P., C.S., 2016. Validation of Empirical Wave Run-up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 243–247. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The empirical wave run-up formulas were adapted in previous researches by many authors. One of them adapted the formula for dynamic Polish Baltic Sea coast (Paprotny et al., 2014). In the present paper the available formulas were validated using the camera images and measurements made by GPS RTK along the profile located in Dziwnówek during calm weather conditions. The experiment was carried out in Dziwnówek from June 1st to August 31st 2014. The range of water level was varied from −0.25 to 0.44 m above average sea level elevation from real sea level elevation data from Institute of Meteorology and Water Management and about −0.405 to 0.402 above average sea level elevation from hydrodynamic model M3D. The results of wave run-up with a 2% probability of occurrence were created using real and modelled elevation data to compare results. Significant wave height was about 0.01–1.61 m and peak wave period varied from 2.01 to 8.39 seconds. The camera provides images during the 15 minutes events in every hour sampled at 1 Hz. The highest wave run-up was identified along the profile in every available picture. Data from camera were compared with modelled range of beach inundation. The research was done in the framework of SatBałtyk project. The number of project is: POIG.01.01.02-22-011/09.

Practical Applicability and Preliminary Results of the Baltic Environmental Satellite Remote Sensing System (Satbałtyk)

Abstract The SatBałtyk (Satellite Monitoring of the Baltic Sea Environment) project is being realized in Poland by the SatBałtyk Scientific Consortium, specifically appointed for this purpose, which associates four scientific institutions: the Institute of Oceanology PAN in Sopot - coordinator of the project, the University of Gdańsk (Institute of Oceanography), the Pomeranian Academy in Słupsk (Institute of Physics) and the University of Szczecin (Institute of Marine Sciences). The project is aiming to prepare a technical infrastructure and set in motion operational procedures for the satellite monitoring of the Baltic Sea ecosystem. The main sources of input data for this system will be the results of systematic observations by metrological and environmental satellites such as TIROS N/NOAA, MSG (currently Meteosat 10), EOS/AQUA and Sentinel -1, 2, 3 (in the future). The system will deliver on a routine basis the variety of structural and functional properties of this sea, based on data provided by relevant satellites and supported by hydro-biological models. Among them: the solar radiation influx to the sea’s waters in various spectral intervals, energy balances of the short- and long-wave radiation at the Baltic Sea surface and in the upper layers of the atmosphere over the Baltic, sea surface temperature distribution, dynamic states of the water surface, concentrations of chlorophyll a and other phytoplankton pigments in the Baltic waters, spatial distributions of algal blooms, the occurrence of coastal upwelling events, and the characteristics of primary production of organic matter and photosynthetically released oxygen in the water and many others. The structure of the system and preliminary results will be presented.

Application of Statistical Methods to Predict Beach Inundation at the Polish Baltic Sea Coast

In coastal zones, interactions between oceans and lands are very dynamic. Coastal and flood protection has a great importance for the safety of people. One of the approaches to predict beach inundation is to use simple empirical equations which have been successfully adopted by the coastal engineering branch. This research is focused on the application of wave run-up formulas (R2) to predict beach inundation at the Polish Baltic Sea coast. Nine R2 formulas were tested in six cross-sections at the beaches in Miedzyzdroje, Ustronie Morskie, Sarbinowo, Darlowko, Lubiatowo and Debki. Sea level elevation from tide-gauges and wave conditions from WAM model were used. The range of temporary seal level was from −0.29 to 0.39 m above mean sea level elevation defined as −0.08 m in Kronsztadt-86 Ordnance Datum. Maximum wave height was about 2.63 m and wave period was between 2.01 and 7.63 s. The results showed one extreme wave run-up (R2) formula as percentage values which gave proper visual adjustment without overestimation and underestimation and statistically significant correlation (with 95% confidence level) in Sarbinowo (0.79), Lubiatowo (0.60) and Ustronie Morskie (0.49).

The Dynamic Equilibrium Shore Model for the Reconstruction and Future Projection of Coastal Morphodynamics

Sea level and coastline change are becoming increasingly important topics to the population living along the edge of the world’s oceans and seas. This is the case at the southern Baltic Sea coast where climate change and glacio-isostatic response cause a relative sea-level rise of up to 2 mm/y and where storms events lead to continuous coastal retreat. There is an increasing need of numerical models applicable for reconstruction and future projection of coastal morphogenesis within the frame of coastal zone management and planning. By adopting a concept of dynamic equilibrium changes of coastal profiles and three dimensional generalization of the generalized Bruun concept, a quantitative model Dynamic Equilibrium Shore Model (DESM) is elaborated to study coastal morphogenesis including the reconstruction of the geological past and projection to future on the decadal to centennial time scale. The DESM model requires data of historical coastline configuration derived from maps, a high-resolution modern Digital Elevation Model (DEM), relative sea-level change data, and modelling data of long-shore sediment transport capacity. This model is applied in the study to three research areas of the southern Baltic Sea (Swina Gate, Łeba coast and Hel Peninsula). Their developments represent distinct examples of morphodynamics at wave dominated coast: formation of barrier islands, development of open coasts and processes at sandy spits. This study concentrates on areas in particular vulnerable to erosion and destruction due to their geological build-up, the glacio-isostatic subsidence and an exposure to the westerly and northern wind and storm tracks.