Laurence Coiffard

Comparison of cytotoxicity of various surfactants tested on normal human fibroblast cultures using the neutral red test, MTT assay and LDH release.

We used the neutral red test, MTT assay and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release to compare the potential cytotoxicity of six surfactants belonging to different classes—three non‐ionic surfactants (Triton ×100, octylphenoxypolyethoxy alcohol, from Orion; Tween 60, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate, from ICI Speciality Chemicals; Tween 80, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate, from Labosi), two anionic surfactants (Texapon K1298, sodium lauryl sulphate, from Henkel; Texapon N40, sodium laurylether sulphate, from Henkel) and one cationic surfactant (benzethonium chloride, from Siber Hegner)—on human fibroblast cultures. According to the LC50 (μg ml−1), the tested surfactants can be classified in the following order of increasing cytotoxicity: Tween 80 < Texapon N40 < Tween 60 < Texapon K1298 < Triton ×100 < benzethonium chloride. Copyright

Fatty acid composition of some marine microalgae

Abstract Fatty acid analysis was carried out by gas chromatography on six species of marine microalgae used in aquaculture as an evaluation for proposed cosmetic use. Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) represented a large proportion of the total lipids in Tetraselmis suecica , Porphyridium cruentum and Isochrysis galbana , comprising 20.9, 17.1 and 17%, respectively. Arachidonic and linolenic acids were the most abundant PUFA in T. suecica . Skeletonema costatum , Chaetoceros calcitrans , P. cruentum and Nannochloropsis sp. had a high content of eicosapentenoic acid. The amounts of linolenic, octadecatetranoic and docosahexaenoic acids found in I. galbana were notable. The high PUFA content of most of these microalgae make them good potential raw materials for cosmetic upgrading.

The Fatty Acid Composition of Five Species of Macroalgae

The authors determined the fatty acid composition of five species of macroalgae (Undaria pinnatiflda, Sargassum muticum, Himanthalia elongata, Fucus vesiculosus and Codium fragile) by gas chromatography. The content of total lipids varied from 2 to 4% of the dry weight depending on the species. Fourteen major fatty acids were identified. For all the species studied, except Codium fragile, monoand polyunsaturated fatty acids were dominant.

Quercetin and Rutin as Potential Sunscreen Agents: Determination of Efficacy by an in Vitro Method

Given that flavonoids are known for their ultraviolet (UV)B photoprotective properties in plants that contain them, we chose to study quercetin (1) and rutin (2) as agents that could potentially be used in sunscreen products. These two substances proved to behave in similar ways. When incorporated in oil-in-water emulsions, at a concentration of 10% (w/w), 1 and 2 give sun protection factor (SPF) values similar to that of homosalate, a standard substance. These two flavonoids also provided a non-negligible level of photoprotection in the UVA range. When used in association with titanium dioxide, the SPF obtained was around 30.

High-performance liquid chromatographic method for the comparison of the photostability of five sunscreen agents

Sunscreen agents are commonly used in cosmetic products to filter out noxious radiation in sunlight. A convenient high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for the quantification of five sunscreens after irradiation has been selected. We used this analytical method to compare the photostability of benzophenone-3, PEG-25 PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, at levels in the range of 25-60 microM. The assay was carried out, using a C8 column with a methanol--water mobile phase. The detector was set at a wavelength of 300 nm. The assay was linear with the following limits: 0.2 microgram ml-1 for benzophenone-3, 1 microgram ml-1 for PEG-25 PABA, 0.15 microgram ml-1 for octyl dimethyl PABA, 0.1 microgram ml-1 for methylbenzylidene camphor and 0.05 microgram ml-1 for butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. The half-lives calculated indicate a very good photostability of the sunscreens studied and permit to classify amongst themselves.

Lichenic extracts and metabolites as UV filters

Three lichen extracts and ten lichenic compounds have been screened for their photoprotective activities. The determination of their Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Protection Factor-UVA (PF-UVA) values was done in vitro. Among them, a Lasallia pustulata extract and gyrophoric acid exhibited SPF values over 5, which is better than Homosalate (SPF≈4). Their photoprotective properties are only slightly modified after a 2-hours period of irradiation. Salazinic acid and L. pustulata presented characteristics of a UVA booster like the butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) (PF-UVA≈2 vs. 2.8 for Avobenzone). Salazinic acid was a better anion superoxide scavenger than ascorbic acid and none of them exhibited a photosensitizing cytotoxicity by exposing them on HaCaT cells to UVA radiations (photo-irritancy factor PIF<5).

In vitro correlation between two colorimetric assays and the pyruvic acid consumption by fibroblasts cultured to determine the sodium laurylsulfate cytotoxicity

The target of this research was to determine the cytotoxicity of sodium laurylsulfate on single-layer cultures of human fibroblasts, using two colorimetric methods (neutral red and MTT tests) and the evaluation of the pyruvic acid consumption by the cells. For the determination of the cytotoxicity by colorimetric tests, we have determined the absorbance at 540 nm using a spectrophotometer. Pyruvic acid, present in the culture medium, is the mitochondrias C3 energetic metabolite. So, a measure of the cells consumption of pyruvic acid was developed. The reaction is as follows: Pyruvic acid + NADH --> Lactic acid + NAD+ and the enzyme employed is the LDH (lactate dehydrogenase). This method can be used to measure cytotoxicity, proliferation, and the cells activation. The method is rapid, precise, and lacks any toxic byproduct. The absorbance was measured using a spectrophotometer at 340 nm. The consumption of pyruvic acid follows upon the fibroblasts growth. Sodium laurylsulfate cytotoxicity test after 24 h shows that the NR colorimetric test and the pyruvic acid consumption are correctly correlated (r = 0.91, alpha = 0.05). This dosage can be used to study the barrier properties of the corneocyte layer without destroying the artificial skin.

UV filters, ingredients with a recognized anti-inflammatory effect.

Background To explain observed differences during SPF determination using either an in vivo or in vitro method, we hypothesized on the presence of ingredients having anti-inflammatory properties. Methodology/Principal Findings To research our hypothesis, we studied the 21 UV filters both available on the market and authorized by European regulations and subjected these filters to the phorbol-myristate-acetate test using mice. We then catalogued the 13 filters demonstrating a significant anti-inflammatory effect with edema inhibition percentages of more than 70%. The filters are: diethylhexyl butamido triazone (92%), benzophenone-5 and titanium dioxide (90%), benzophenone-3 (83%), octocrylène and isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (82%), PEG-25 PABA and homosalate (80%), octyl triazone and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (78%), octyl dimethyl PABA (75%), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (70%). These filters were tested at various concentrations, including their maximum authorized dose. We detected a dose-response relationship. Conclusions/Significance The anti-inflammatory effect of a sunscreen ingredient may affect the in vivo SPF value.

Photostability determination of arbutin, a vegetable whitening agent

The target of this research was to evaluate the photostability at various pH values of 1.20 x 10(-4) M aqueous solution of arbutin (lambda max = 267 nm; epsilon = 7500 M-1.cm-1). This photodegradation appeared to follow first-order kinetics whatever the pH. The degradation rate constant was calculated to be 5.5 x 10(-4), 7.0 x 10(-4) and 24.1 x 10(-4) min-1, respectively at pH 5, 7 and 9.

Stripping method to quantify absorption of two sunscreens in human

With the aim to know the remanence of two sunscreens, PEG-25 PABA and benzophenone, two cases have been considered: the application of aqueous solution of two filters studied for the application of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions containing the same two filters on the skin of 21 voluntary women. In order to determine the quantity of filter remaining in the stratum corneum after times of application, which vary from 1 to 7 h, a series of six strippings have been carried out. The sunscreen agents were assessed by HPLC. With this study, it has been possible to emphasize the best remanence of benzophenone 4. Moreover, the incorporation of photo-protective agents in a O/W emulsion promotes their penetration, and this is particularly due to benzophenone 4.