Laurence Schacher

Tactile Feeling: Sensory Analysis Applied to Textile Goods:

Descriptive analysis is one of the methods used in the food industry to describe the perception of products when being eaten. This work attempts to adapt this method to the description of fabric handle. A panel of eleven assessors use fifteen discriminant and pertinent attributes, and the assessors are trained to evaluate each attribute and to score them on a linear scale. The performance of each panelist is checked for validity and reproducibility before the panel is acknowledged as operative. Through implementation of rigorous procedures (i.e., exploratory procedures, sample presentation, and data analyses), this methodology provides reliable descriptions of the perceived quality of fabrics. The hand of the same cotton fabric treated with different industrial finishes is described by the panel. Results are analyzed in term of differences and similarities between the fabrics, sustaining commercial claims but in a more precise way. Finally, the fabric ranking from crease recovery tests agrees with the ranking of the panel on the responsive scale.

The use of fuzzy logic and neural networks models for sensory properties prediction from process and structure parameters of knitted fabrics

In a competitive business environment, the textile industrialists intend to propose diversified products according to consumers preference. For this purpose, the integration of sensory attributes in the process parameters choice seems to be a useful alternative. This paper provides fuzzy and neural models for the prediction of sensory properties from production parameters of knitted fabrics. The prediction accuracy of these models was evaluated using both the root mean square error (RMSE) and mean relative percent error (MRPE). The results revealed the models ability to predict tactile sensory attributes based on the production parameters. The comparison of the prediction performances showed that the neural models are slightly powerful than the fuzzy models.

Predicting compression and surfaces properties of knits using fuzzy logic and neural networks techniques

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to model the relationship between manufacturing parameters, especially finishing treatments and instrumental tactile properties measured by Kawabata evaluation system.Design/methodology/approach – Two soft computing approaches, namely artificial neural network (ANN) and fuzzy inference system (FIS), have been applied to predict the compression and surface properties of knitted fabrics from finishing process. The prediction accuracy of these models was evaluated using both the root mean square error and mean relative percent error.Findings – The results revealed the models ability to predict instrumental tactile parameters based on the finishing treatments. The comparison of the prediction performances of both techniques showed that fuzzy models are slightly more powerful than neural models.Originality/value – This study provides contribution in industrial products engineering, with minimal number of experiments and short cycles of product design. In fact, models bas...

Development of a New 3D Nonwoven for Automotive Trim Applications

Nowadays, the automotive manufacturers have to take into account the legislation on End Life Vehicle (ELV), especially the European Directive 2000/ 53/ CE which constraints all automotive products to be at 85% recyclable and at 95% reuseable by January 2015 (EU Directive, 2000). The automotive multilayer structure used for automotive trim applications, fabric (PET) / foam (PU) / backing fabric (PA), does not offer ability for recycling or reusing and the question that has to be asked is “Could the PU foam used in the automotive trim applications be replaced by a mono component spacer material?” One answer is to propose an eco-friendly solution presenting a mono material product. Moreover, this new product has to answer to the automotive specifications in terms of lightness, formability and cost. Some solutions for PU foam replacement have been proposed, such as spacer fabrics presenting a vertical orientation of the yarns (weaving and knitting technologies) or a vertical orientation of the fibers (nonwoven technology). The vertical orientation of the fibers will improve the mechanical properties of the fabric especially for the compressional ones. Critical analyses between the different 3D textiles technologies show that the nonwoven technology provides the best industrial solution in terms of cost and productivity. Regarding the 3D nonwoven products, the “on the market” ones present drawbacks that do not allow them to answer positively to the initial question concerning the replacement of the PU foam. Indeed, the structure of these 3D nonwovens does not present a perfect vertical orientation of the fibres (Njeugna, 2009). Consequently, these products do not offer a maximal resilience in terms of compression properties. In this context, a French consortium composed of research laboratory (LPMT as project leader), textile industrialists (N. Schlumberger, AMDES, Protechnic, Landolt, Dollfus & Muller, Rhenoflex Dreyer), textile technical centre (IFTH1) has been formed to develop an eco-friendly 3D nonwoven which would not present the previous drawbacks. This new 3D nonwoven could be used to replace polyurethane foam classically used in automotive trim applications. This consortium has been supported by the Alsace Textile Cluster, the Alsace

Preparation and morphology study of carbon nanotube reinforced polyacrylonitrile nanofibres

Abstract The aim of this study was to prepare polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibres filled with multiwall carbon nanotubes (CNT) through an electrospinning process of a dispersion of CNT in a DMF solution of PAN. The rheological properties of pure PAN solutions and of CNT dispersion in PAN solutions were studied as the viscosity of the spun solution plays an important role in the spinning process. If the PAN solutions behave like a Newtonian fluid, CNT dispersions exhibit a more complex rheological behaviour characterised by the apparition of a flowing threshold. CNT dispersions containing 0 to 2·5% of CNT were electrospun in a homemade device. The morphology of prepared nanofibres was examined using scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy. Nanofibres containing CNT show a mean diameter three times higher than the one spun without CNT and also a higher surface roughness. These observations suggest that CNT aggregates are not destroyed and create this particular morphology.

Measuring the electrical properties of MWNT-PA6 reinforced nanocomposites

The paper studies the electrical properties of polyamide 6- (PA6-) carbon nanotubes (CNTs) nanowebs, obtained through electrospinning. Three different treatments (chemical, mechanical, and mixed) were applied to the CNT in order to prepare the electrospinning solutions. For each treatment, the CNT content was different: 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, and 2%. The electrical volume and surface conductivity of the obtained samples were studied by measuring their electrical volume and surface resistance. Homemade plate electrodes were used. The samples were also analyzed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM) and an atomic force microscope (AFM). Defects were found on the extremities: solvent traces, flat fibers, and beads. The mixed treatment seems too aggressive and it is not recommended. The AFM analysis gave values for roughness and profile height (Ra and Rz): extreme values were obtained for the chemically and mechanically treated samples. Next, a pristine PA6 sample was used to compare the influence of the CNT content on the electric behavior of the samples. By increasing the pressure on the specimens, the volume resistivity decreased exponentially, while the surface resistivity showed no significant changes, independently of the CNT content. The obtained behavior proves a great potential of the MWNT-PA6 reinforced nanocomposites for sensor applications.

The influence of the sterilisation process on certain thermal properties

Surgical clothing and sheets have to meet all the requirements set in the health-care industry regarding body comfort, absorption capacity and general recognition of physiological safety and sterilisation capacity. The disposable surgical gown market is growing and the demand will increase in all product groups and market sectors, where the health care industry is the most dynamic growth area. The aim of this study was to analyse some of the thermal properties of disposable surgical gowns before and after different sterilisation methods, and therefore the influence of the sterilisation process on their thermal comfort. The apparatus used to measure heat transfer properties was the Thermo Labo device (KES FB7) which evaluates the cool/warm sensation, thermal conductivity and insulation properties of the test item. The results obtained highlight the influence of the sterilisation process on the thermal and comfort properties.

Frictional Sound Analysis by Simulating the Human Arm Movement

Abstract Fabric noise generated by fabric-to-fabric friction is considered as one of the auditory disturbances that can have an impact on the quality of some textile products. For this reason, an instrument has been developed to analyse this phenomenon. The instrument is designed to simulate the relative movement of a human arm when walking. In order to understand the nature of the relative motion of a human arm, films of the upper half of the human body were taken. These films help to define the parameters required for movement simulation. These parameters are movement trajectory, movement velocity, arm pressure applied on the lateral part of the trunk and the friction area. After creating the instrument, a set of soundtracks related to the noise generated by fabric-to-fabric friction was recorded. The recordings were treated with a specific software to extract the sound parameters and the acoustic imprints of fabric were obtained.

Physical and mechanical characterizations of recyclable insole product based on new 3D textile structure developed by the use of a patented vertical-lapping process

This paper deals with physical properties and compression behavior of new insole structure. This insole is developed based on a new 3D fibrous structure made of recycled polyester nonwoven (110 g/cm2) laminated with different textile materials by the use of a patented vertical-lapping process (VERTILAP®). To characterize physical and mechanical properties of the 3D structures, a methodology has been set up and new testing methods have been developed. The results of this study have shown interesting properties in terms of comfort and compression behavior (under static and dynamic loading). It has been observed that the 3D structure laminated with hemp woven fabric has the highest water absorbency, the highest thermal conductivity and the coolest touch effect compared to nonwoven made of a blend of polyester and viscose fibers. The compression behavior of the insole has been influenced by the physical properties of the 3D structure. The insoles developed in this work have a viscoelastic behavior with cushioning properties and can resist up to 218 kPa at 50% of deformation under static compression conditions and dissipate sufficient energy (higher than 180 N.mm) which allows the relieve of the foot pressure and distributes loads more evenly on the soft parts of the feet in use case.

New method to measure compression stockings transparency

Compression stockings are one of the best known therapies for venous disorders. This treatment is efficient as long as the stockings are worn by the patient. In order for them to be worn, they will have to fit the patient, in terms of comfort and appearance. The aim of this work is to develop a measurement technique adapted to stretchable textile items to evaluate stockings transparency. Our approach is to measure some of the colorimetric parameters of the stocking. Five commercial compression stockings claimed by the suppliers as supposed to present special transparency characteristics have been analyzed and compared. In order to compare stockings of different colours, a “transparency value” has been set. The developed method can help designing more transparent stockings which may be better “accepted” by patients.