Leo C. van Rijn

Sediment transport and budget of the central coastal zone of Holland

Abstract Based on the available short-term morphological data (1964–1992), the net yearly-averaged sand volume change in the surfzone ( 3 −8 m NAP; to local datum approximately mean sea level) along the coast of Holland was found to be 125,000 m 3 year (sedimentation), including beach nourishments. A sand budget model has been developed, which describes the sand volume change (in m 3 year ) in each compartment of the coastal area given known gradients of the computed longshore and cross-shore transport rates and known source/sink terms (nourishment, dumping and dredging). The model area extends in cross-shore direction from the +3 m NAP contour to the −20 m NAP contour. The sand budget model has been calibrated (hindcast study) using the yearly-averaged sand volume changes derived from bathymetry data (Jarkus-data base) collected during the period 1964–1992. Input data are the gradients of the yearly-averaged longshore and cross-shore transport rates at the boundaries of the compartments and the available data of beach nourishment, dumping and dredging in the same period. A 2DV-mathematical model representing the hydrodynamic (waves and currents) and sand transport processes in a cross-shore profile was applied to compute the yearly-averaged transport rates in various profiles along the coast at depths of 20 and 8 m and in the surf zone. A detailed sensitivity study was performed to determine the variation ranges of the transport rates.

The shoreface-connected ridges along the central Dutch coast — part 1: field observations

Abstract The hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes on the Dutch inner-shelf were studied on the basis of short- and medium-term (days, month) field experiments during fair-weather and storm conditions. The primary goal of this study was to identify the mechanisms that may be responsible for the formation and maintenance of the shoreface-connected ridges in the study area. The hydrodynamic field observations do not consistently support existing theoretical models explaining the formation of such ridges. Instead, the water motion appears to be dominated by wind- and density-driven effects. A review of literature indicates that other field studies also fail to observe the flow response expected from theory. Sediment transport during fair-weather is very episodic, with bed load transport slightly dominant over suspended load transport. The sediment transport processes during storms are dominated by the mean fluxes, with waves acting as a stirring mechanism. The contribution of wave-oscillatory fluxes cannot be neglected and may be directed with and against the waves. Long-wave fluxes are present, but very small.

In Situ Erosion Flume (ISEF): determination of bed-shear stress and erosion of a kaolinite bed

Abstract The strength of a cohesive sediment bed is difficult to determine and must be found experimentally from laboratory tests or through in situ field tests. A new in situ erosion instrument, the In situ Erosion Flume (ISEF), has been developed which is a circulating flow system in the vertical plane. The erosion process of sediment particles of the bed in the test section of the ISEF is related to the prevailing bed-shear stress induced by a unidirectional current. The bed-shear stress can be determined from the measured velocity profile in the test section assuming a logarithmic distribution in a vertical direction. The bed-shear stress equation has been calibrated under various conditions characterised by initiation of motion of sand and gravel particles at a flat bed where the bed-shear stresses mobilising the particles are known from the Shields curve. Three reproducibility tests were carried out under laboratory conditions. The bed consisted of kaolinite and was formed by sedimentation in still fresh water. The results of the three tests showed similar values. The erosion of a kaolinite sediment bed is more precisely determined under laboratory conditions by means of the ISEF. The results are compared with data from the literature. The ISEF is a relatively simple instrument for the determination of the strength of (cohesive) sediment beds. The results based on the ISEF measurements represent the minimum shear stress exerted at initiation of erosion of the bed, which will lead to the maximum shear strength of the top layer of the (cohesive) sediment bed.

The shoreface-connected ridges along the central Dutch coast — part 2: morphological modelling

Abstract The long-term (decades, centuries) morphological behaviour of the shoreface-connected ridges along the central Dutch coast was studied with a simplified modelling approach, consisting of a 1D current model (Trenchflow), combined with a 2DV morphodynamic model (Sutrench). The analysis focused on a cross-section of a single sand bank, assuming that the interaction of the water motion and morphology could be considered a local phenomenon. The modelling was used for a sensitivity analysis of the relevant processes. The present model reveals a positive feedback: the schematized sand bank is predicted to grow, while there is no damping, even not during high waves. However, using the observed flow response, which differs from the theoretical flow response as described in Part 1 of this paper, actual growth rates are close to zero. The modelling shows that the ridges are stable on a time scale of years to decades, while they may be considered active on the time scale of thousands of years. Calculated migration rates of the ridges are in the order of 1xa0m/yr. Morphological time scale and migration rate correspond to the results from a geological reconstruction.

BREAKER BAR FORMATION AND MIGRATION

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

THE EFFECT OF SEDIMENT COMPOSITION ON CROSS-SHORE BED PROFILES

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

IN-SITU DETERMINATION OF THE CRITICAL BED-SHEAR STRESS FOR EROSION OF COHESIVE SEDIMENTS

A special reflecting wall 12 m long and 2.1 m high was built off the beach at Reggio Calabria, and 30 wave gauges were assembled before the wall and were connected to an electronic station on land. It was possible to observe the reflection of wind waves generated by a very stable wind over a fetch of 10 Km. The experiment aimed to verify the general closed solution for the wave group mechanics (Boccotti, 1988, 1989), for the special case of the wave reflection.Significant features on Wadden Sea wave climate are evaluated in respect of the state of the art. Main emphasis was laid on an analysis of the governing boundary conditions of local wave climate in island sheltered Wadden Sea areas with extensions being sufficient for local wind wave growth. Explanatory for significant wave heights a reliable parametrization of local wave climate has been evaluated by using generally available data of water level and wind measurements.

Long-Term Modelling of the Holland Coast Using a Multi-Layer Model

For national decisions regarding coastal management it is important to understand the long-term effects and large-scale implications of both natural processes such as climate-change sea-level rise and major coastal engineering projects such as largescale land reclamations. To this purpose, within the framework of the national Dutch research program COAST*2000, a behaviour-oriented model is being developed that is basically capable of quantifying the long-term (50 to 100 years) and largescale (1-100 km) morphological evolution of the Dutch coast. The set-up of this socalled PoNTos-model is discussed in this paper, focusing on the definition of the model, its validation and the results of application of the model for the Holland coast.

MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING USING A MODIFIED MULTI-LAYER APPROACH

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

Wave-Related Suspended Sand Transport in the Ripple Regime

This paper presents results of an experimental and theoretical study on wave-related suspended sand transport under irregular waves in the ripple regime. Experimental data were analysed to determine the mean and oscillating suspended transport components. The analysis results clearly show the influence of the particle diameter on the wave-related transport. The second part of the study is related to a I DV model, which simulates the instantaneous velocity and sand concentrations from close to the bed up to higher in the water column. The model is based on the classical diffusion approach taking both the turbulence-related and the effective wave-related diffusion into account. It shows that the time-averaged sand concentrations can be simulated reasonably well in the ripple regime using the calibrated equations.