Letícia Caramori Cefali

Plant‐based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the suns radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant‐based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin‐protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant‐based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.

Photostability study of commercial sunscreens submitted to artificial UV irradiation and/or fluorescent radiation.

Sunscreens contain molecules with the ability to absorb and/or reflect UVA (ultraviolet A) and UVB (ultraviolet B) radiation, thereby preventing this radiation from reaching the epidermis or dermis. Their photo stabilities after exposure to UV radiation are well known and described, but there is little data on the stability of these filters after fluorescent indoors light radiation, such as from light emitted by commercial lamps present in homes and offices. Those lamps can expose people to varying levels of UVB, UVA, visible light, and IR (infrared). This study assesses the photostability of four different commercial products containing chemical sun filters after artificial UV and fluorescent irradiation, correlating the UVB and UVA absorption efficiencies of each product against the different types of radiation. The tested products were applied on a plate of polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) and irradiated by a solar simulator with specific filters for UVA and UVB and a commercial fluorescent light source. According to the results, three formulations did not show photostability, suffering significant changes in their UV absorption spectra, and one of the selected formulations can be considered photostable. This reinforces the importance of conducting stability studies for sunscreen formulations in different conditions, including under artificial (indoor) light exposure.

Bromelain Loading and Release from a Hydrogel Formulated Using Alginate and Arabic Gum

An ideal wound dressing ensures a moist environment around the wound area and absorbs exudates from the wound surface. Topical application of bromelain to incised wounds has been shown to reprogram the wound microenvironment to promote effective tissue repair. Combining the characteristics of hydrogels and bromelain is therefore of great interest. Herein, we describe the development of a hydrogel, formulated using alginate and Arabic gum, for bromelain loading and release. The hydrogel formulation was evaluated using response surface methodology, considering the pH value and the concentration of alginate and Arabic gum. Bromelain loading and release were evaluated based on passive diffusion. Differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy were performed to confirm bromelain immobilization in the hydrogel. The final hydrogel formulation had a swelling ratio of 227u200a% and incorporated 19u200a% of bromelain from a bromelain solution. Bromelain immobilization in the hydrogel was the result of hydrogen bond formation and was optimal at 4u200a°C after 4u2009h of contact. This evidence suggests that bromelain entrapment into a hydrogel is a promising strategy for the development of wound dressings that support the debridement of burns and wounds.

Natural actives for wound healing: A review: Natural Actives for Wound Healing: A Review

Nature has been a source of medicinal treatments for thousands of years, with the use of plants as prototypes for drug development and for the extraction of active compounds. Skin injuries occur regularly in everyday life, and the human skin has the ability to promote repair spontaneously under healthy conditions. However, some intrinsic and external factors may interfere with skins natural ability, leading to nonhealing lesions and chronic wounds, which directly affect health and quality of life. Thus, attention should be given to this health problem, using an appropriated management when necessary. In this scenario, phytotherapy may be an option for cutaneous wound treatment, although further high‐quality studies are needed to firmly establish the clinical efficacy of plants. This article reviews traditionally used natural actives for wound healing, highlighting their characteristics and mode of action.

Evaluation of the enzymatic activity and stability of commercial bromelain incorporated in topical formulations

Bromelain is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes found in various tissues of the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus) and other species of Bromeliaceae. Owing to its proteolytic activity, bromelain has been used in the food, medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for its cell renewal, anti‐ageing, whitening and anti‐cellulite properties.

Development and evaluation of microencapsulated sunscreen

ABSTRACT The aim of the present study was to carry out stability tests and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) evaluations of formulations containing free or microencapsulated chemical sun filters to improve their use. To this end, three formulations were developed and subjected to stability studies. The most stable formulation was chosen as a vehicle for free and microencapsulated chemical sun filters, and subjected to further stability studies and in vitro SPF assays. The SPF values were approximately 12 and 11 for formulations containing free and encapsulated sun filters, respectively, and both types were stable under stress. Chemical sun filters can be microencapsulated, which may aid in generating innovative sunscreen formulations. GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT

Vitamin C in Acerola and Red Plum Extracts: Quantification via HPLC, in Vitro Antioxidant Activity, and Stability of their Gel and Emulsion Formulations

BACKGROUNDnThe fruits acerola and red plum are known to be good sources of antioxidants, particularly vitamin C. Antioxidants are compounds that protect organisms from biomolecular damage, such as accelerated aging, caused by free radicals.nnnOBJECTIVEnThe objective of this study was to extract vitamin C from acerola and red plum, incorporate these extracts into different topical formulations, and evaluate the physicochemical stabilities of these formulations under stress conditions.nnnMETHODSnVitamin C was extracted from acerola and red plum via dynamic maceration for 2 h at 50 ± 2°C and was quantified via HPLC. In vitro antioxidant activities were evaluated using DPPH assays. The extracts were then incorporated into emulsion and gel formulations in two types of packaging, and stability studies were carried out.nnnRESULTSnRed plum and acerola extracts were orange and red and contained vitamin C concentrations of 2732.70 ± 93.01 mg/100 g and 2.60 ± 1.2 mg/100 g, respectively. In vitro antioxidant activity resulted in over 90.0% inhibition of free radicals at 0.01 mL/mL acerola extract and 0.1 mL/mL red plum extract. In the stability study, pH values decreased for both acerola formulations when stored in the oven or in transparent glass containers. Formulations containing red plum extract were stable under all conditions. Acerola extracts contained a higher concentration of vitamin C than red plum extracts. Both extracts possessed antioxidant activity, although the acerola-based formulation was unstable when stored at high temperatures or in transparent glass containers.nnnHIGHLIGHTSnExtracts from red plum and acerola contained vitamin C; antioxidant activity of the extracts resulted in over 90.0% inhibition of free radicals. Formulations containing red plum were stable under all tested conditions, and formulations containing acerola were unstable when stored in the oven or in transparent glass containers.