Małgorzata Matusiak

Predicting the Nep Number in Cotton Yarn—Determining the Critical Nep Size

Neppiness is one of the most important aspects of cotton yarn quality and significantly influences the appearance of woven and knitted fabrics produced from that yarn. The direct sources are neps and trash contained in the cotton fiber sliver feeding the spinning frame. Nevertheless, not all neps cause yarn faults. For each yarn linear density, there exists a critical nep size above which neps are registered by an Uster tester as yarn imperfections. Determining the critical nep size is important from the point of view of predicting the nep number per 1000 m of cotton yarn. We consider and elaborate on theoretical models of critical nep size as a function of the linear density of cotton ring spun and OE yarns. On the basis of our equations, we calculate the critical nep size for different yarn linear densities. The experimentally obtained results confirm our theoretical models.

Modelling the thermal resistance of woven fabrics

Thermal resistance of fabrics is an important property influencing an ability of fabrics to protect the human body against cold. In this paper the model of the thermal resistance of woven fabrics is elaborated. Next, an experimental verification was carried out on the basis of the results for 26 cotton woven fabrics of plain weave as well as for 18 cotton fabrics of weaves different to plain. The experiment confirmed that there is a statistically significant and strong correlation between the real values of the fabric thermal resistance measured by means of Alambeta and the predicted value calculated by means of the elaborated model.

Thermal-Insulation Properties of Multilayer Textile Packages

Abstract Thermal-insulation properties of textile materials play a significant role in material engineering of protective clothing. Thermal-insulation properties are very important from the point of view of thermal comfort of the clothing user as well as the protective efficiency against low or high temperature. Thermal protective clothing usually is a multilayer construction. Its thermal insulation is a resultant of a number of layers and their order, as well as the thermalinsulation properties of a single textile material creating particular layers. The aim of the presented work was to investigate the relationships between the thermal-insulation properties of single materials and multilayer textile packages composed of these materials. Measurement of the thermal-insulation properties of single and multilayer textile materials has been performed with the Alambeta. The following properties have been investigated: thermal conductivity, resistance and absorptivity. Investigated textile packages were composed of two, three and four layers made of woven and knitted fabrics, as well as nonwovens. On the basis of the obtained results an analysis has been carried out in order to assess the dependency of the resultant values of the thermal-insulation properties of multilayer packages on the appropriate values of particular components.

Thermal resistance of fabrics vs. thermal insulation of clothing made of the fabrics

The protection of a human body against the negative environmental factors, especially the cold, is one of the crucial functions of clothing. Clothing creates a thermal barrier between the human body and the surroundings. The protective efficiency of clothing goods depends mostly on thermal insulation properties of textile materials applied in clothing. The clothing design, fitting to a user’s body, and a number of layers also play an important role in the phenomenon of the heat exchange between the human organism and its surroundings. The thermal insulation properties of textile materials can be measured by means of different testing devices, such as the “skin model,” the Alambeta, the Permetest, and the Thermo Labo. A measurement of clothing goods from the point of view of their thermal insulation is performed using a thermal manikin. The article presents an investigation of thermal insulation properties of vests by means of thermal manikin. The investigated vests have been made of different textile materials: woven and knitted. The thermal insulation properties of fabrics applied in vests have been measured by means of the Alambeta. The article presents and discusses the relationships between the thermal insulation of vests according to the thermal manikin and the thermal resistance of fabrics applied in the vests.

Digieye Application In Cotton Colour Measurement

Abstract Colour is one of the most important properties of cotton raw materials. It helps in determining and classifying the quality of fibres according to the Universal Cotton Standards. Organoleptic and instrumental techniques are applied to assess the color of cotton. Worldwide, the colour parameters of cotton are measured by the High Volume Instrument (HVI), which provides information on reflectance (Rd) and yellowness (+b) that is specific for cotton, but are not the typical and globally recognized colour characteristics. Usually, worldwide, the colour of textile products and other goods is assessed utilizing the spectrophotometer, which provides the colour data that is widely recognized and accepted by the CIE L*a*b* colour space. This paper discusses utilizing the DigiEye system to measure the colour parameters of cotton samples and compares the results with the colour parameters from the HVI.

Comfort-related properties of seersucker fabrics in dry and wet state

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to analyse the seersucker fabrics from the point of view of their ability to ensure the thermo-physiological comfort. It was investigated how the kind of the weft yarn and seersucker structure influence the air permeability and thermal insulation properties of the fabrics. Design/methodology/approach The paper presents the investigations of the typical seersucker fabrics made of the same set of warps and different weft yarns. Fabrics were manufactured on the same loom with two warp beams. Next they were finished by the same way including washing, drying and stabilisation processes. Fabrics were measured in the range of their air permeability using standard test method. Thermal insulation properties of fabrics were measured in dry and wet state by means of Alambeta. Surface topography of the seersucker fabrics was analysed using 3D laser scanning. Findings On the basis of the obtained results it was stated that due to the puckered structure the seersucker fabrics are characterised by high thermal resistance, several times higher than the thermal resistance of typical flat woven fabrics. The seersucker fabrics are characterised by very low value of the thermal absorptivity in wet state at the level appropriate for typical flat fabrics in dry state. It confirmed that the seersucker fabrics ensure the physiological comfort. Application of the elastomeric yarn in weft caused significant tightening the fabric structure. It resulted in low air permeability, fabric stiffness and unpleasant hand. Research limitations/implications As a limitation of the investigation of the seersucker fabrics in wet state we can mention the surface topography of the fabrics. It made wetting the fabrics difficult before measuring. It is necessary to elaborate precise procedure of preparation of seersucker fabrics before their testing in the wet state. Practical implications Performed investigations showed that the seersucker fabrics have a big potential to be comfortable. By an appropriate designing of their structure it is possible to achieve very good comfort-related properties even without application of innovative comfort-oriented yarns. Originality/value The originality of the paper is based on the fact that the measurement was performed for the seersucker fabrics. The fabrics are characterised by the unique structure which influences their appearance and utility properties. It caused that they are willingly applied in different kinds of clothing. Till now any results of comfort-related properties of such kind of the woven fabrics have not been published.

Influence of Kind of Weft Yarn on Properties of the Seersucker Woven Fabrics

Abstract Seersucker woven fabrics create a unique 3D woven structure. Such 3D structure is usually received on loom by an application of two warps of different tension. However, a kind of the weft yarn also significantly influences the structure and properties of the seersucker woven fabric. The paper presents an investigation of the seersucker fabrics made of the same set of warps and different weft yarns. The mechanical properties of the investigated fabrics were measured by means of the standardized testing methods. The structure of the fabric was assessed using the 3D laser scanning.

Investigation of Mechanical and Utility Properties of Two-Layer Cotton Woven Fabrics

Abstract The aim of presented work was to design the cotton woven fabrics which ensure thermal resistance higher than standard cotton fabrics of basic weaves. It was done in order to combine the excellent hygienic properties of cotton fibers with thermal insulation. Three variants of two-face cotton woven fabrics of different structure were designed and manufactured. Next, they were measured in the range of their basic structural, mechanical, and comfort-related properties. The results obtained were analyzed in the aspect of properties influencing the utility comfort of user wearing clothing made of the investigated fabrics.

Influence of the Structural Parameters of Woven Fabrics on their Drapeability

Drape is a very important utility parameter of fabrics, especially applied in clothing. It influences the aesthetic effect of clothing, in particular its fitting to the user’s body. Fabric draping is the result of interaction between gravitation and various fabric characteristics. In the work presented, cotton woven fabrics of different structure were measured in the range of their drapeability. The fabrics differed from each other in the range of their weave and linear density of weft yarn. Measurement of the fabrics was made by means of a fabric drape tester. Results of the measurement were analysed in the aspect of the relationships between the drape of the fabrics and their parameters, such as the kind of weft yarn, weave, weft density and stiffness. Results confirmed that for the group of fabrics investigated, their stiffness is the most significant property influencing the drapeability of fabrics. Additionally different weaves result in different values of the drape coefficient and shape factor.

Influence of structure and finishing of woven fabrics on their formability

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density, weave and a way of finishing. It shows how the mentioned properties influence fabric formability and analyze a statistical significance of investigated relationships. Design/methodology/approach – In paper two groups of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics of different structure and a way of finishing have been measured in the range of their basic structural properties as well as bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Formability of investigated fabrics has been calculated on the basis of bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Next, ANOVA has been performed in order to analyze the relationships between the weft density, weave and a way of finishing of woven fabrics and their formability. Findings – The paper shows that all selected properties of woven fabrics significantly influence their formability as w...