Márcio Ferrari

Avaliação in vitro da atividade fotoprotetora de extratos vegetais do cerrado de Mato Grosso

O cerrado brasileiro e um bioma detentor de grande diversidade biologica. No entanto, sao escassas as pesquisas de especies vegetais, especialmente do cerrado mato-grossense, com potencial para serem utilizadas como filtros solares naturais. O objetivo desta pesquisa foi estudar o potencial fotoprotetor de especies de diferentes familias (Apocynaceae, Lythraceae, Oxalidaceae) do cerrado da regiao do Rio Manso, Chapada dos Guimaraes - MT. A absorbância dos extratos etanolicos secos foram medidas em diferentes concentracoes entre os comprimentos de onda de 260 a 400nm para verificar a absorcao nas regioes ultravioleta A e B (UVA e UVB). As plantas que apresentaram absorbância na regiao estudada foram submetidas a uma analise fitoquimica qualitativa preliminar para determinar a presenca de polifenois e alcaloides, constituintes caracteristicos de plantas que absorvem a radiacao UV. Os extratos etanolicos secos que apresentaram absorcao em UVB foram submetidos ao teste de determinacao in vitro do Fator de Protecao Solar (FPS) desenvolvido por Mansur. M. Velame apresentou absorcao na regiao UVB com absorbância maxima em 318nm, enquanto que a L. pacari e O. hirsutissima apresentaram absorbância na regiao UVA. Na concentracao utilizada e padronizada, nenhuma das especies apresentou FPS >2, sendo assim nao podem ser consideradas plantas com potencial fotoprotetor.

Determinação do fator de proteção solar (FPS) in vitro e in vivo de emulsões com óleo de andiroba (Carapa guianensis)

The andiroba oil extracted of Carapa guianensis has attracted considerable interest by the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries because of its anti-inflammatory and insect repellent properties. This research evaluated the in vitro and in vivo andiroba oil photoprotection activity. Stable O/W emulsions with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate were prepared with and without andiroba oil. These emulsions were assessed by evaluating several parameters such as macroscopic analysis and organoleptic aspects, emulsion type by diluition test and in vitro and in vivo determinations of Sun Protect Factor (SPF). The in vitro SPF was determined according to the spectrophotometric method developed by Mansur. The in vivo SPF values were determined according to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) method. There was not statistical difference among the formulations, demonstrating that the andiroba oil did not present photoprotective activity.

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as acai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The acais fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing acai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

In Vivo Evaluation of the Photoprotective Efficacy of O1/W/O2 Multiple Emulsions with Andiroba Oil (Carapa guianensis)

Stable multiple emulsions containing andiroba oil and sunscreen have been formulated. These were prepared using the two-step procedure. The formulations were characterized and their stability over the time was evaluated by centrifugation, macroscopic, and microscopic analyses, and rheological measurements. The photoprotective efficacy of the O/W and O1/W/O2 containing or not andiroba oil was evaluated by in vivo sun protection factor determination according to the FDA method. The formulations exhibited good stability during 30 days after preparation at different temperatures. These presented pseudoplastic flow behaviour and thixotropy. The increase of in vivo SPF value was not observed when andiroba oil was incorporated into emulsions containing ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. These multiple emulsions can be utilized as an interesting topical vehicle.

Compatibility study between ferulic acid and excipients used in cosmetic formulations by TG/DTG, DSC and FTIR

Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is a phytochemical constituent from the polyphenols group commonly found in whole grains, spinach, parsley, grapes and rhubarb. It has been widely applied in skin care formulations as photoprotective agent and delayer of cutaneous photoaging processes. This work aims to establish a protocol to the development of cosmetic formulations using thermoanalytical techniques (TG/DTG and DSC) and Pearson’s correlation by FTIR data, in order to evaluate the compatibility between ferulic acid and excipients used in skin care formulations. The results obtained from the thermoanalytical techniques indicated compatibility between ferulic acid and the following excipients: passion fruit seed oil, Carbopol® Ultrez 30, EDTA, Crodabase CR2®, Crodamol™ GTCC and Dow Corning® RM 2051. Nevertheless, the analysis also demonstrated the possibility of some interaction between ferulic acid and the following excipients: glyceryl stearate, Rapithix® A-60 and Optiphen®. To validate these results, it was demonstrated by Pearson’s correlation that passion fruit seed oil, Carbopol® Ultrez 30, EDTA, Crodabase CR2®, Crodamol™ GTCC, Dow Corning® RM 2051, glyceryl stearate and Rapithix® A-60 do not have any incompatibility that may compromise ferulic acid properties. Finally, it was also proved a meaningful incompatibility between ferulic acid and Optiphen® using Pearson’s correlation. Thus, it is not recommended to use Optiphen® in the development of cosmetic formulations to carry ferulic acid.

Exotic Vegetable Oils for Cosmetic O/W Nanoemulsions: In Vivo Evaluation

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions are stable systems with droplet sizes in the 20–200 nm range. The physicochemical properties of these systems may be influenced by the addition of additives. Thus, the influence of ethoxylated (EL) and acetylated lanolin (AL) addition on the droplet size, pH values, electrical conductivity and stability of nanoemulsions was investigated. Then, effect of nano-emulsions additives with EL (NE-EL) or AL (NE-AL) in hydration, oiliness and pH of the skin were evaluated. Nanoemulsion safety was evaluated through the observation of no undesirable effects after skin formulation application. Both additives caused changes in droplet size and electrical conductivity, but not in pH values. Nanoemulsions containing up to 6.0% ethoxylated lanolin and 2.0% acetylated lanolin remained stable after centrifugation tests. Higher concentrations of the additives made the nanoemulsions unstable. Stability tests showed that ethoxylated lanolin produced more stable nanoemulsions then acetylated lanolin and that the major instability phenomenon occurring in these systems is coalescence at elevated temperatures. Nanoemulsion-based lanolin derivatives increased skin hydration and oiliness and did not change cutaneous pH values. These formulations are non-toxic since they did not cause any irritation on the skin surface after nanoemulsion application, showing potential as carriers for pharmaceuticals and cosmetic applications.

Prosopis juliflora (SW) D.C., an invasive specie at the Brazilian Caatinga: phytochemical, pharmacological, toxicological and technological overview

Prosopis juliflora (SW) D.C. “algaroba” is an abundant invasive tree species native to South America, Central America and the Caribbean, present in arid and semi-arid zones. In Brazil, this species is widespread in the Caatinga biome, a xeric region that is going through a process of desertification. Algaroba was introduced to this region in order to promote reforestation and provide animal feed. However, this specie has adapted too well and has affected a botanical alteration of the endemic and native Caatinga specie. This has become a problem since algaroba could inhibit the growth and development of some endangered species. Therefore, it is important know the potential of algaroba and promote new uses aiming for a conscious exploitation of the use of this specie in several fields. This review aims to provide an up-to-date overview of botanical information, chemical compounds, traditional uses, pharmacological activities, as well as technological, biotechnological and toxicological aspects which could be helpful for future research in the development of new bioactive natural products. This review could help provide insights for new research aimed at both the rational exploration of bioactive metabolites and their application in new products.

Liquid Crystal Formation from Sunflower Oil: Long Term Stability Studies

The Brazilian biodiversity offers a multiplicity of raw materials with great potential in cosmetics industry applications. Some vegetable oils and fatty esters increase skin hydration by occlusivity, keeping the skin hydrated and with a shiny appearance. Sunflower (Helianthus annus L.) oil is widely employed in cosmetic emulsions in the form of soaps, creams, moisturizers and skin cleansers due to the presence of polyphenols and its high vitamin E content. Liquid crystals are systems with many applications in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and are easily detected by microscopy under polarized light due to their birefringence properties. The aim of this research was to develop emulsions from natural sunflower oil for topical uses. Sunflower oil (75.0% w/w) was combined with liquid vaseline (25.0% w/w) employing a natural self-emulsifying base (SEB) derivative. The high temperature of the emulsification process did not influence the antioxidant properties of sunflower oil. Fatty esters were added to cosmetic formulations and extended stability tests were performed to characterize the emulsions. Fatty esters like cetyl palmitate and cetyl ester increase the formation of anisotropic structures. O/W emulsions showed acidic pH values and pseudoplastic behavior. The presence of a lamellar phase was observed after a period of 90 days under different storage conditions.

Performance evaluation of Cryo Laser Phoresis technique as biophysical method to promote diclofenac sodium cutaneous perfusion

Aiming to alter and/or improve permeation of active compounds in the skin, many strategies have been developed, including biophysical methods. One of the physical absorption techniques, currently known as Cryo Laser Phoresis (CLP), consists of an apparatus that emits radiation on polar or nonpolar molecules of the active substance, resulting in faster penetration when in comparison to the standard topical application. The goal of this work was to evaluate the efficacy of a method that proposes to increase cutaneous permeation of diclofenac sodium by using CLP technique. The influence on permeation was evaluated ex vivo, using Franz cell and human skin obtained from cosmetic surgery. The results were evaluated using statistical methods and data exploratory analysis: clusters, k-means and Principal Component Analysis. The results showed a larger increase in the concentration of diclofenac sodium in the dermis with the use of laser. In all samples (with or without laser application) it was observed that skin surface showed an amount of diclofenac sodium and that there was no active passage to the receptor liquid, suggesting that diclofenac sodium was not absorbed. These results indicate that CLP, when used under the conditions described in this study, is able to increase diclofenac sodium penetration and its retention into deeper layers.

O/W/O Multiple Emulsions Containing Amazon Oil: Babassu Oil (Orbignya oleifera)

The aim of this work was to formulate O/W/O stable multiple emulsions containing Babassu oil and to evaluate the physical stability. Babassu is the popular name given to the palm tree (Orbignya sp) that occurs in the Amazon forest. The multiple emulsions were prepared using the two-step procedure. To improve the stability the properties of the formulation ingredients were explored. The investigated formulations were characterized and their stability over the time was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated stability. The macroscopic and microscopic characteristics, the values of the apparent viscosity, both consistency and flow index, and hysteresis areas during aging, indicated good long-term stability of these formulations.