Maria Filomena Barreiro

Optimization of ultrasound-assisted extraction to obtain mycosterols from Agaricus bisporus L. by response surface methodology and comparison with conventional Soxhlet extraction.

Ergosterol, a molecule with high commercial value, is the most abundant mycosterol in Agaricus bisporus L. To replace common conventional extraction techniques (e.g. Soxhlet), the present study reports the optimal ultrasound-assisted extraction conditions for ergosterol. After preliminary tests, the results showed that solvents, time and ultrasound power altered the extraction efficiency. Using response surface methodology, models were developed to investigate the favourable experimental conditions that maximize the extraction efficiency. All statistical criteria demonstrated the validity of the proposed models. Overall, ultrasound-assisted extraction with ethanol at 375 W during 15 min proved to be as efficient as the Soxhlet extraction, yielding 671.5 ± 0.5mg ergosterol/100 g dw. However, with n-hexane extracts with higher purity (mg ergosterol/g extract) were obtained. Finally, it was proposed for the removal of the saponification step, which simplifies the extraction process and makes it more feasible for its industrial transference.

Lignin-based rigid polyurethane foams with improved biodegradation

Rigid polyurethane (RPU) foams have been synthesized using lignin-based polyols obtained by oxypropylation of four distinct lignins (Alcell, Indulin AT, Curan 27-11P, and Sarkanda). Polyol formulations with two lignin/propylene oxide/catalyst content (L/PO/C) ratios were chosen (30/70/2 and 20/80/5). RPU foams have been prepared with a polyol component that incorporates the lignin-based one at contents ranging from 25 to 100%. A 100% commercial polyol-based (Lupranol® 3323) RPU foam was also prepared and used as the reference. RPU foams were characterized in terms of density, compressive modulus, and conductivity. Cell morphology and size estimation were accessed by scanning electron microscopy. Moreover, biodegradation of the Alcell- and Indulin AT-based foams was evaluated using respirometry tests in liquid and solid media. The Alcell- and Indulin AT-based polyols together with the 20/80/5 Curan 27-11P-based one led to RPU foams with properties quite similar to those of the reference homolog. Biodegradation seems to be, particularly, favored if using Indulin AT-based polyols mixed with Lupranol® 3323.

Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review

Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.

Characterization and evaluation of commercial fragrance microcapsules for textile application

In this paper, some commercial microcapsule samples, containing different fragrances used for textile application purposes, were characterized and evaluated. Microcapsule samples were evaluated in terms of particle size, morphology, shell material composition, and fragrance intensity. The effectiveness of the textile impregnation and its durability were assessed. The selection of samples used in each study was made in order to the specific goals of characterization and evaluation of microcapsules. Lemon_Bayer, Lemon_Focor, Lemon_Horquim, Strawberry_Horquim, and Jasmine_Focor samples were used to study the morphology and particle size distribution, and it was observed that microcapsules have a spherical shape with size between 2 and 6 m. The chemical composition of Lavender_Horquim, Mints_Horquim, Eucaliptus_Focor, and Apple_Focor samples was checked/ confirmed and was based on melamine copolymers including melamine-formaldehyde ones. Lemon_Horquim microcapsules were impregnated on textile substrates, and it was observed that a loss of 46% of limonene occurred after one domestic wash and a loss of 97% occurred after 20 domestic washes.

Rosemary extracts in functional foods: extraction, chemical characterization and incorporation of free and microencapsulated forms in cottage cheese

Consumers search for food with functional characteristics beyond its nutritional properties. Thus, the concept of functional food has become a hot topic, allowing us to obtain additional health benefits, including disease prevention. In this context, plants are recognized as sources of a wide range of bioactives, including phenolic compounds. Herein, rosemary aqueous extract was used as a functional ingredient for cottage cheese, after proving that it possesses both higher content of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity, comparatively with the corresponding hydroethanolic extract. However, a decrease of bioactivity was observed for the cheese samples enriched with the extracts in free form after seven days under storage. Therefore, in order to preserve the antioxidant activity, the rosemary aqueous extract was efficiently microencapsulated by using an atomization/coagulation technique. Overall, the introduction of both free and microencapsulated extracts provided bioactivity that was better preserved with microencapsulated extracts without changing the nutritional value of cottage cheese.

Development of chitosan-based antimicrobial leather coatings.

The development of antimicrobial coatings for footwear components is of great interest both from industry and consumers point of view. In this work, antimicrobial leather materials were developed taking advantage of chitosan intrinsic antimicrobial activity and film forming capacity. Considering the specificities of the leather tanning industry, different coating technologies, namely drum, calender and spray, were tested, being the best results achieved with the drum. This last approach was further investigated to assess the effect of chitosan content, type of solubilizing acid, and impregnation time on the achieved antimicrobial capacity. Considering chitosan price (economic reasons) and the obtained results (antimicrobial activity and coating effectiveness, as inspected by SEM), the impregnation in the drum using a chitosan content of 1% (w/v) in a formic acid solution during 2h, is proposed as the best option for obtaining leather with antimicrobial capacity.

Development of Mushroom-Based Cosmeceutical Formulations with Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Tyrosinase, Antioxidant, and Antibacterial Properties

The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds or extracts with relevant bioactive properties, which became valuable ingredients to design cosmeceutical formulations. Mushrooms have been markedly studied in terms of nutritional value and medicinal properties. However, there is still slow progress in the biotechnological application of mushroom extracts in cosmetic formulations, either as antioxidants, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agents or as hyperpigmentation correctors. In the present work, the cosmeceutical potential of ethanolic extracts prepared from Agaricus bisporus, Pleurotus ostreatus, and Lentinula edodes was analyzed in terms of anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities. The extracts were characterized in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol composition, and further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream to achieve the same bioactive purposes. From the results obtained, the final cosmeceutical formulations presented 85%–100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels found in the mushroom extracts, suggesting that there was no significant loss of bioactive compounds. The final cosmeceutical formulation also displayed all the ascribed bioactivities and as such, mushrooms can further be exploited as natural cosmeceutical ingredients.

Functionalized textiles with PUU/limonene microcapsules: effect of finishing methods on fragrance release

The majority of the commercially available microencapsulated fragrance systems with interest for textile applications are based on phenol–formaldehyde/melamine–formaldehyde resins. Recognized human health problems concerning formaldehyde emissions led to the use of poly(urethane–urea) (PUU) systems. In this work, fabrics were impregnated with PUU microcapsules containing limonene produced by interfacial polymerization. To aid the microcapsule impregnation, a specific binder was used followed by a drying and thermofixation process. The textiles were then subjected to abrasion and dry cleaning tests. Fragrance release was analysed for different binder to microcapsule ratios. SEM images of the impregnated samples indicate good adhesion of the microcapsules to the fabric fibres, but some capsule breakage was observed. Fragrance release tests were followed by GC–FID–HS and showed good resistance to abrasion tests with 30% of the initial limonene detected after 9000 abrasion cycles. A lower resistance was observed for the dry cleaning tests, although 20% of the limonene was still present after five dry cleaning cycles.

Optimization and comparison of heat and ultrasound assisted extraction techniques to obtain anthocyanin compounds from Arbutus unedo L. fruits

The goal of this study was to compare anthocyanin extraction from Arbutus unedo L. fruits, by using two techniques assisted by different energy sources, heat and ultrasound. In order to obtain the conditions that maximize anthocyanin extraction, a response surface methodology was applied using the circumscribed central composite design of three variables with five levels. Three anthocyanin compounds were identified by HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS, being cyanidin-3-glucoside the main molecule. Heat assisted extraction proved to be the most effective method at 5 min, 90 °C and 80% of ethanol, yielding 51.2% of extract, with a total anthocyanin content of 382.4 µg/g dried fruit, and 744.6 µg/g extract. These response values were slightly improved by studying the solid/liquid effect at the optimal conditions in dose-response format, showing steady extraction values from 5 to 40 g/L. Results show the possibility of using A. unedo fruits as a source of anthocyanin compounds for industrial applications.

Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies

Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.