Marisa Nicolai

Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: cosmetic properties and safety evaluation

Abstract Context: Unsaponifiable matter (UM), a fraction of green coffee oil (GCO) contains functional compounds responsible for desirable cosmetic properties such as UV-B absorption. Objectives: To evaluate oil content and sun protection factor (SPF) variability of the two most important species of coffee and, the toxic and cytotoxic effects, as well as cosmetic properties, including antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of UM obtained from green Coffea arabica seed oil. Materials and methods: The safety and potential cosmetic properties of UM extracted from green coffee oil (GCO) were evaluated by the brine shrimp viability and the MTT cytotoxicity assays. The SPF and antioxidant activity were evaluated using in vitro methods. Results: Relevant cytotoxicity was found against keratinocytes for concentrations ≥25 µg/mL and in the brine shrimp assay (LC50 24 µg/mL). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities (IC50 1448 µg/mL) were low in UM but SPF was 10 times higher than in GCO. Conclusion: UM is a novel potential UV-B absorbent but its use as a cosmetic ingredient should be better considered due to the considerable cytotoxicity shown in the experimental conditions described.

Design and evaluation of novel topical formulation with olive oil as natural functional active

Abstract Currently, the innovative skin research is focused on the development of novel topical formulations loaded with natural functional actives. The health benefits of olive oil are unsurpassed and many others are revealed as research studies allow the understanding of its unlimited properties. Olive oil has a protective toning effect on skin, but it is not transported effectively into its layers. Aiming the development of a cosmetic formulation for skin photoprotection and hydration, we have prepared and characterized macro-sized particles, made of a hydrogel polymer, loaded with olive oil. Alginate beads were uniform in shape, with minimal oil leakage, offering interesting prospects for encapsulation of lipophilic and poorly stable molecules, like olive oil. In vitro photoprotection and in vivo tolerance tests were in favor of this application. Thus, this study suggests that the incorporation of the olive oil-loaded particles into a cream formulation provides strong moisturizing properties and a photoprotective potential, when applied to healthy subjects.

Anticancer properties of the abietane diterpene 6,7-dehydroroyleanone obtained by optimized extraction

AIM 6,7-dehydroroyleanone (DHR) is a cytotoxic abietane present in the essential oil of Plectranthus madagascariensis. METHODS/RESULTS Different extraction parameters were tested, and its extraction optimization was accomplished with a Clevenger apparatus-based hydrodistillation. After isolation, its effect on microtubules, P-glycoprotein and caspases was assessed on several cell lines and the compound was coupled with hybrid nanoparticles. The results show that DHR does not interfere with microtubule formation, but evades the resistance mechanisms of P-glycoprotein. Strong activation of caspases-3 and -9 indicates that DHR is able to induce apoptosis by triggering the intrinsic cell death pathway. Moreover, the assembly of DHR with hybrid nanoparticles was able to potentiate the effect of DHR in cancer cells. CONCLUSION DHR seems to be a promising starting material with anticancer properties to further be explored.

Carbohydrates in Ankistrodesmus braunii biomass cultivated in tubular photobioreactors: Carboidratos em biomassa de Ankistrodesmus braunii cultivada em fotobioreatores tubulares

The great need for microalgae biomass production in tubular photobioreactors has increased for use in biofuels, pharmaceuticals and even cosmetic applications. In order to better understand the potential applications of this material, it is imperative to know in detail its composition. Ankistrodesmus braunii was cultivated in 3.5 L tubular air-lift photobioreactors using 10 mM sodium nitrate as nitrogen source in batch mode at 60 μmol photons m-2 s-1. The maximum biomass concentration (Xm) and the biomass productivity (PX) reached at 6th day of cultivation was 1249 ± 72 mg L-1 and 165 ± 13 mg L-1 d-1, respectively. Carbohydrates productivity expressed in terms of glucose, galactose and glucose+galactose (1:1) were 2.57 ± 0.04, 4.12 ± 0.06 and 3.22 ± 0.05 mg L-1 d-1, respectively. Results show a statistical difference that was found between carbohydrate productivity values expressed as glucose, galactose and glucose+galactose (1:1).

Optimization of the encapsulation efficiency of a novel oral insulin delivery nanosystem: Optimização da eficiência de encapsulaçãode um novo nanosistema para a administração oral de insulina

Oral delivery of insulin may significantly improve the quality of life of diabetes patients who routinely receive insulin by the subcutaneous route. The oral delivery of insulin remains a challenge because of its limited absorption. The main goal of this study was to produce stable nanoparticles with high loads of insulin for further in vivo testing. Poli(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA), a biodegradable and biocompatible polymer, revealed to be a good presupposition for this approach. Nanoparticles were produced through a multiple emulsion method and the encapsulation efficiency was accessed by a HPLC method. Monodispersed nanoparticles were produced and the insulin EE were improved from 30 % to 65 %, controlling parameters such as the stirring speed rate, volume of external phase, pH range, type of insulin, type of surfactant and polymer concentrations. The nanoparticle size was 398.6 nm with a polydispersivity index of 0.19. The presence of a salt concentration between 20 g L-1 and 50 g L-1 and the type of insulin decreased the size of nanoparticles. Bioactivity assessment after the encapsulation process and full characterization of physical-chemical interactions between all species is now required.