Masukuni Mori

Relationship between Anti-felting Properties and Physicochemical Properties of Wool Fibers Treated with Ar-plasma:

The anti-felting mechanism of plasma-treated wool was investigated by analyzing the surface of Ar-plasma-treated wool using XPS. The changes of single fibers and the properties of their assemblies were also studied. It was suggested that intermediate cystine oxides, i.e., S(O)—S and S(O)2—S groups generated on the wool fiber surface, have a strong affinity with water. In addition, carboxyl and sulphonic acid groups produced on the fiber surface during plasma treatment may also increase surface hydration and thus may play some part in the felting behavior of wool fiber. Subsequently, cohesive force is exerted by hydrogen bonding between these groups and water molecules on the fiber surfaces. This interaction results in a decrease in the flexibility of the individual fibers in the assembly. This limits the unidirectional movement of the fibers and thus improves the anti-felting behavior of the wool fibers.

Relationship Between Anti-Felting Properties and Physicochemical Properties of Wool Treated with Low-Temperature Plasma

Low-temperature plasma treatment, which offers an alternative to the existing treatment using chlorine, has been drawing worldwide attention as an eco-friendly technology for the anti-felting of wool. However, the reason why that plasma-treated wool does not shrink even after repeated aqueous laundry has still not been elucidated, though a number of related papers have been published. The aim of this study is to explore the reason by analyzing the surface of Ar-plasma treat wool using FT-IR and also XPS and by examining the changes of physicochemical properties of plasma-treated wool. It is suggested that intermediate cystine oxides(i.e., -S(O)-S- and -S(O)2-S- groups generated on the wool fiber surface) have a strong affinity with water. Subsequently, cohesive force is exerted between fiber surfaces and this results in a decrease of the flexibility of the individual fiber in assembly. Therefore, any entanglements between fibers are suppressed, and the felting is controlled. This is an important anti-felting property plasma treatment provided. In addition, carboxyl and sulphonic acid groups produced on the fiber surface play some part in the felting behavior of wool probably due to an increase in the hydration of the fiber surface.

Modification of wool fibers by atmospheric pressure plasma treatment

Shrink‐proofing processing of wool fabrics by vacuum plasma treatment has been studied for many years. However, as a wool shrink‐proofing processing method, discharge treatment under atmospheric pressure, such as corona and low‐temperature electric plasma treatment, has been studied recently. In this study, an attempt was made to improve shrink‐proofing and other properties of a wool fabric by low‐temperature plasma treatment. The wool fabric was treated by pulsed atmospheric pressure plasma using a dielectric barrier discharge apparatus of the Institute of Textile Technology at Denkendorf by varying the power and flow rate of air. Shrink‐proofing, dyeing yield and water‐absorbing properties increased to a greater degree with the increase in the treatment time. However, the effect was saturated at 3 min. On the other hand, hysteresis of shearing property at large shear angle (2HG5), which is one of the mechanical parameters for measuring fabric hand by the Kawabata evaluation system (KES), becomes larger with the treatment time. It can be concluded that shear hysteresis value is related to the improvement in shrink‐proofing and other properties of the wool fabric.

The Effect of Weave Density on Fabric Handle and Appearance of Men's Suit Fabrics

Optimum selection of materials and adequate weave structure fitted for end-users are very important for comfortable, sophisticated and fashionable clothes. The optimum theoretical weave density is well-known and used practically depending on yarn property; however, wearing comfortability and beautiful appearance of weaves are not studied precisely in the literature yet. These features are considered to be made at the finishing stages of the weave manufacturing process in general; however, the main part of physical properties of fabrics seem to have been determined by their weave structure. In this study, warp yarn density was changed for mens suit fabrics and the effect of weave density on fabric handle, heat and water transfer property, appearance of clothes, wrinkle resistance, and color brightness are examined. The total hand value (THV) showed the highest at similar density of warp and weft yarn. The total appearance value (TAV) decreased when warp and weft yarn density was smaller. Wrinkle resistance was high in the condition of the maximum warp and weft yarn density. This paper contributes to the development of a fundamental database of designing ideal fabrics.

Comparison of woolen eco-friendly anti-felting treatment with classic anti-felting procedures

The development of an eco-friendly anti-felting treatment based on a calcium hypochlorite and hydrogen peroxide (Ca(ClO)2 + H2O2) system, the so-called MEFT (Mori Eco-friendly Treatment) process, is reported in this paper. This treatment is not new in the processing of wool; however, controlling the temperature and time gives rise to further effectiveness of the system, resulting in excellent anti-felting property, fabric handle, color intensity and whiteness. The relationship of the anti-felting and scale structure of Merino and Corriedale wool fabrics treated with the present system is discussed. Although the anti-felting effect was slightly lower than that of the chlorination treatment based on dichloroisocyanuric acid and NARS (improved new method of the Agricultural Research Service) treatment, the excellent handle characteristics of wool fabrics were retained. The anti-felting property, based on various other oxidative and non-oxidative treatments, was compared and the rank was obtained approximately in the following order: chlorination > NARS = MEFT > plasma > Caroat.

Correlation with itchy feeling of fabric handling change by physicochemical processing of woolen fabric

The purpose of this research is in solution of two important subjects mutually related; (1) creation of fabrics of various handlings by finish processing and (2) mechanism of generation of itchy feeling acting as the hindrance of a comfortable clothing life and establishment of its objective evaluation method. For the purpose of solution of these two subjects, the same fabrics were used and they were changed by 18 kinds of different physicochemical procedures, which come out 18 levels of fabric handlings ranging from very soft to very stiff. As for handlings of 18 kinds of fabrics, the items of Hand Value were calculated based on all of KES basic properties in terms of KES procedures. Solution of these subjects is also connected with a high level of fabric finishing technology. On the other hand, one of the authors is an expert in fabric finish processing, and has been sure of itchy feeling of fabrics being closely connected with the hardness of fabrics from many years of experience. The degrees of itchy feeling for 18 kinds of fabric were judged by 50 evaluators of different ages and occupations, in terms of five ranks of evaluation method beforehand. As a result, itchy feeling had a high correlation with shear properties and Koshi, and had a negative high correlation with Numeri. It was confirmed that that itchy feeling could be evaluated by objective data of KES properties in terms of KES procedure.

Relationship between Various Chemical Treatments on the Mechanical, Anti-Felting and Dyeing Properties of Wool

Wool fibers have higher elasticity than synthetic fibers, and are superior in the properties of vapor absorption and desorption. However, the only fault of wool is its felting propensity during home laundering. Although various anti-felting treatments to reduce the felting property have been developed and used industrially, there are still problems such as environmental issues and changes of fabric handle. These issues were studied in this paper. The effect of DCCA, NaOCl and plasma treatments on anti-felting property, fabric handle, yellowing, color intensity and hydrophilicity were especially investigated. It is concluded that NaOCl method is the best treatment in the points of anti-felting, fabric handle, yellowing and color intensity.