Matthieu A. de Schipper

A New Alternative to Saving Our Beaches from Sea-Level Rise: The Sand Engine

ABSTRACT Stive, M.J.F.; de Schipper, M.A.; Luijendijk, A.P.; Aarninkhof, S.G.J.; van Gelder-Maas, C.; van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M.; de Vries, S.; Henriquez, M.; Marx, S., and Ranasinghe, R., 2013. A new alternative to saving our beaches from local sea-level rise: the sand engine. A boldly innovative soft engineering intervention, comprising an unprecedented 21.5 Mm3 sand nourishment known as the Sand Engine, has recently been implemented in the Netherlands. The Sand Engine nourishment is a pilot project to test the efficacy of local mega-nourishments as a counter measure for the anticipated enhanced coastal recession in the 21st century. The proposed concept, a single mega-nourishment, is expected to be more efficient, economical, and environmentally friendly in the long term than traditional beach and shoreface nourishments presently being used to negate coastal recession. Preliminary numerical model results indicate that this local nourishment will result in the widening of the beach along a 10 to 20 km stretch of the coastline and a beach area gain of 200 ha over a 20-year period. First observations show indeed a redistribution of the sand feeding the adjacent coasts, roughly 40% toward the south and 60% toward the north. While the jury is still out on this globally unique intervention, if proven successful, it may well become a global generic solution for combating sea-level-rise driven coastal recession on open coasts.

Tidal flow separation at protruding beach nourishments

In recent years, the application of large-scale beach nourishments has been discussed, with the Sand Motor in the Netherlands as the first real-world example. Such protruding beach nourishments have an impact on tidal currents, potentially leading to tidal flow separation and the generation of tidal eddies of length scales larger than the nourishment itself. The present study examines the characteristics of the tidal flow field around protruding beach nourishments under varying nourishment geometry and tidal conditions, based on extensive field observations and numerical flow simulations. Observations of the flow field around the Sand Motor, obtained with a ship-mounted current profiler and a set of fixed current profilers, show that a tidal eddy develops along the northern edge of the mega-nourishment every flood period. The eddy is generated around peak tidal flow and gradually gains size and strength, growing much larger than the cross-shore dimension of the coastline perturbation. Based on a 3 week measurement period, it is shown that the intensity of the eddy modulates with the spring-neap tidal cycle. Depth-averaged tidal currents around coastline perturbations are simulated and compared to the field observations. The occurrence and behavior of tidal eddies is derived for a large set of simulations with varying nourishment size and shape. Results show that several different types of behavior exist, characterized by different combinations of the nourishment aspect ratio, the size of the nourishment relative to the tidal excursion length, and the influence of bed friction.

Horizontal ADCP measurements of waves and currents in the very nearshore

Hydrodynamic measurements of the very nearshore are valuable, but often difficult to obtain. Large amounts of bubbles due to wave breaking and complex installation complicate the use of acoustic instruments in this zone. This paper presents measurements obtained by a horizontal looking ADCP (hADCP) installed in the very nearshore to measure waves and wave currents. The observations are separated into the various timescales ranging from high frequency orbital motion to very low frequency oscillations and mean flow. Results reveal the presence of significant very low frequency oscillations and the potential of a hADCP to capture wave transformation in the nearshore.

ON THE INITIATION OF NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGICAL RHYTHMICITY

Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity

Semi-Automated Monitoring of a Mega-Scale Beach Nourishment Using High-Resolution TerraSAR-X Satellite Data

This paper presents a semi-automated approach to detecting coastal shoreline change with high spatial- and temporal-resolution using X-band synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data. The method was applied at the Sand Motor, a “mega-scale” beach nourishment project in the Netherlands. Natural processes, like waves, wind, and tides, gradually distribute the highly concentrated sand to adjacent beaches. Currently, various in-situ techniques are used to monitor the Sand Motor on a monthly basis. Meanwhile, the TerraSAR-X satellite collects two high-resolution (3 × 3 m), cloud-penetrating SAR images every 11 days. This study investigates whether shorelines detected in TerraSAR-X imagery are accurate enough to monitor the shoreline dynamics of a project like the Sand Motor. The study proposes and implements a semi-automated workflow to extract shorelines from all 182 available TerraSAR-X images acquired between 2011 and 2014. The shorelines are validated using bi-monthly RTK-GPS topographic surveys and nearby wave and tide measurements. A valid shoreline could be extracted from 54% of the images. The horizontal accuracy of these shorelines is approximately 50 m, which is sufficient to assess the larger scale shoreline dynamics of the Sand Motor. The accuracy is affected strongly by sea state and partly by acquisition geometry. We conclude that using frequent, high-resolution TerraSAR-X imagery is a valid option for assessing coastal dynamics on the order of tens of meters at approximately monthly intervals.