Mauro Sclavo

Observation of Extreme Sea Waves in a Space–Time Ensemble

AbstractIn this paper, an observational space–time ensemble of sea surface elevations is investigated in search of the highest waves of the sea state. Wave data were gathered by means of a stereo camera system, which was installed on top of a fixed oceanographic platform located in the Adriatic Sea (Italy). Waves were measured during a mature sea state with an average wind speed of 11 m s−1. By examining the space–time ensemble, the 3D wave groups have been isolated while evolving in the 2D space and grabbed “when and where” they have been close to the apex of their development, thus exhibiting large surface displacements. The authors have selected the groups displaying maximal crest height exceeding the threshold adopted to define rogue waves in a time record, that is, 1.25 times the significant wave height (Hs). The records at the spatial positions where such large crests occurred have been analyzed to derive the empirical distributions of crest and wave heights, which have been compared against standar...

Tracking the drift of a human body in the coastal ocean using numerical prediction models of the oceanic, atmospheric and wave conditions

This paper describes the use of numerical models to infer the path of a floating human body in the Ligurian Sea (north-west Mediterranean) during the month of January 2001. The prevailing oceanic currents were obtained from a state-of-the-art real-time nowcast/forecast ocean circulation model, while the sea state was inferred from a numerical model of the surface gravity waves, both driven by regional atmospheric models. The surface currents (from the ocean model) and the drift ones at the ocean surface, as inferred from the wave model, were used to drive a Lagrangian model of the drifting body to deduce its plausible trajectory along the Ligurian coast. The inferred path is reasonably consistent with location and time of the discovery on the French coast. This note illustrates the utility of numerical prediction models at the disposal of modern forensic science in the fields of ocean sciences.

Wave-current interaction effect on sediment dispersal in a shallow semi-enclosed basin

ABSTRACT Sclavo, M., Benetazzo, A., Carniel, S., Bergamasco, A., Falcieri, F.M., and Bonaldo, D., 2013. Wave-current interaction effect on sediment dispersal in a shallow semi-enclosed basin The shallow northern Adriatic Sea (namely Gulf of Venice) serves as a model for exploring the interaction of surface gravity waves and oceanic currents and how they influence bottom sediment dispersal and bathymetry evolution. This wave-current interaction effect is investigated using the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system. COAWST relies on the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS), the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model, and the CSTMS (Community Sediment Transport Modeling System) models and routines. The 2-way data transfer between wave and ocean circulation models is synchronous via MCT (Model Coupling Toolkit), with ROMS providing to SWAN the 2-D current field, free surface elevation, and bathymetry. COAWST modeling system is implemented on two computational grids at different horizontal resolution: a parent grid (with resolution of 2.0 km) covering the whole Adriatic Sea and a child grid resolving the Gulf of Venice at a resolution of 0.5 km. Simulated waves and currents are validated against in-situ observations at the CNR-ISMAR Acqua Alta oceanographic tower, located 15 km off the Venice lagoon. The analysis of wave-current interaction effect on sediment dispersal and sea bottom evolution are performed over the 2011 winter season (January-March) with particular focus on the waves generated by dominant and prevailing winds blowing on the Adriatic Sea: Bora and Sirocco. Results show that while the effects on bottom stress may vary depending on wave propagation and current direction, the effects on advective dynamics may become dominant particularly in presence of severe storms with parallel wave propagation and global circulation, which is the case of Bora storms in northern Adriatic Sea.

Euler characteristics of oceanic sea states

We present an application of a novel Variational Wave Acquisition Stereo System (VWASS) for the estimation of the wave surface height of oceanic sea states. Specifically, we show that VWASS video technology combined with statistical techniques based on Euler Characteristics of random fields provides a new paradigm for the prediction of wave extremes expected over a given area of the ocean.

Towards validating a last generation, integrated wave-current-sediment numerical model in coastal regions using video measurements

This paper presents the first steps in the implementation of a morphological numerical model to be applied in the Bevano River region, a shallow water area in the Adriatic Sea, with the aim of helping the identification and assessment of erosional patterns and bottom morphological modifications induced by severe marine storms. The numerical modeling, performed using a fully 3D coupled wave-current-sediment version of the ROMS model, has been complemented with in situ data analysis and observations: a first qualitative validation of the results was given by the analysis of images acquired via an ARGUS video station.Hydrodynamic modeling highlighted how shear bottom stresses and bottom currents fields were heavily influenced by severe storm situations, and had large effects on the morphology of shallow regions. The correlation between the wave-current induced bottom stresses and the resulting topography was investigated. Nearshore hydrodynamics modeling results demonstrated the dominant role played by alongshore sediment transport, with the magnitude of both cross- and along-shore wave-induced currents strongly depending on wave height and direction.We found a good qualitative conformity between the results of the numerical models applied during a “Bora” storm and the corresponding video observations; both techniques indicated the migration of the existing sandbar within the range of about 40 m seaward.Results show how integrated numerical open source tools, often used in oceanography, are becoming suitable for both preliminary investigations and for planning the effective littoral management, and how their calibration can be supported by the use of new low cost techniques, such as video measurements.

Climatology of the Northern-Central Adriatic Sea

It is well know that the ocean processes exert a great influence on global climate as well as affect the local climate of coastal areas (Russo et al., 2002). Within the Mediterranean region (see Fig. 1a), the presence of the Adriatic Sea influences the atmospheric properties of the surrounding regions over long and short time-scales, and has obviously a relevant influence on human activities and ecosystems (Boldrin et al., 2009).

Sensitivity of a coupled physical–biological model to turbulence: high-frequency simulations in a northern Adriatic station

This paper investigates the impacts of different turbulence models on the biological state at an ocean station in the northern Adriatic sea, named S3, comparing them with other uncertainties inherent to coupled physical–biological simulations. The numerical tool is a 1-D model resulting from the coupling of two advanced numerical models. The hydrodynamic part is modelled using the General Ocean Turbulence Model (www.gotm.net), in a version adopting state-of-the-art second-moment Turbulence Closure Models (TCMs). Marine biogeochemistry is parameterized with the Biogeochemical Flux Model (http://www.bo.ingv.it/bfm), which is a direct descendant of ERSEM (European Regional Sea Ecosystem Model). Results, obtained by forcing the model with hourly wind and solar radiation data and assimilating salinity casts, are compared against monthly observations made at the station during 2000–2001. Provided that modern second-moment TCMs are employed, the comparisons indicate that both the physical and the biological dynamics are relatively insensitive to the choice of the particular scheme adopted, suggesting that TCMs have finally ‘converged’ in recent years. As a further example, the choice of the nutrient boundary conditions has an impact on the system evolution that is more significant than the choice of the specific TCM, therefore representing a possible limitation of the 1-D model applied to stations located in a Region of Freshwater Influence. The 1-D model simulates the onset and intensity of the spring–summer bloom quite well, although the duration of the bloom is not as prolonged as in the data. Since local dynamics appears unable to sustain the bloom conditions well into summer, phytoplankton at the station was most likely influenced by river input or advection processes, an aspect that was not found when the S3 behaviour was adequately modelled using climatological forcings. When the focus is in predicting high-frequency dynamics, it is more likely that lateral advection cannot be neglected. While the physical state can be satisfactorily estimated at these short time scales, the accurate estimation of the biological state in coastal regions still appears as rather elusive.

Modelling wave-driven sediment transport in a changing climate: a case study for northern Adriatic Sea (Italy)

In this paper, we investigate the impact of climate change on coastal sediment transport in a deltaic system in the northern Adriatic Sea, with reference to the period 2070–2099 in the IPCC A1B emission scenario. Wind fields obtained by means of the high-resolution regional climate model Consortium for Small-scale Modelling–Climate Limited-area Modelling were employed for computing wave climate at basin scale by means of the spectral wave model Simulating Waves Nearshore. This was used as a constraint for a nearshore hydromorphodynamic model (MIKE LITPACK), which was applied to a test site on the Po River Delta, located in northern Italy. Relevant sediment transport processes have been studied at storm and decadal time scales in order to capture climate change effects on single events and as an overall trend. The transport rates in the A1B climate change scenario were then compared with the corresponding results of a control analysis (period 1965–1994) representing the actual climate. Although predicted wave climate in the investigated scenario displays an overall decrease in sea severity offshore in the northern Adriatic Sea, the effects of these modifications are modulated during the onshore propagation, with different impacts on sediment transport depending on the considered process and time scale. The strategy presented in this work can find fruitful applications in the long-term modelling of coastal and transitional environments, in which morphology is strongly influenced by sediment transport in the nearshore zone, suggesting a methodological approach for coastal planning and management.

Space–Time Wave Extremes: The Role of Metocean Forcings

AbstractWave observations and modeling have recently demonstrated that wave extremes of short-crested seas are poorly predicted by statistics of time records. Indeed, the highest waves pertain to wave groups at focusing that have space–time dynamics. Therefore, the statistical prediction of extremes of short-crested sea states should rely on the multidimensional random wave fields’ assumption. To adapt wave extreme statistics to the space–time domain, theoretical models using parameters of the directional wave spectrum have been recently developed. In this paper, the influence of metocean forcings (wind conditions, ambient current, and bottom depth) on these parameters and hence on wave extremes is studied with a twofold strategy. First, parametric spectral formulations [Pierson–Moskowitz and Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) frequency spectra with cos2 directional distribution function] are considered to represent the dependence of wave extremes upon wind speed, fetch, and space domain size. Afterwa...

Stochastic Space-Time Extremes of Wind Sea States: Validation and Modeling

Damages and accidents occurred to offshore structures and routing ships raise questions about adequacy of conventional time domain analysis of short-crested sea waves. Indeed, experimental and field evidence showed that during such wave states, typical of storms, the maximum sea surface elevation gathered at a single point in time, i.e. the time extreme, tends to underestimate the actual maximum that occurs over a surrounding area, i.e. the space-time extreme. Recently, stochastic models for the prediction of multidimensional Gaussian random fields maxima, e.g. Piterbarg’s theorem and Adler and Taylor’s approach, have been applied to ocean waves statistics, permitting to extend extreme value analysis from time to space-time domain. In this paper, we present analytical and numerical approaches aimed at supporting applicability of such models, which is limited by the knowledge of directional spectrum parameters. Firstly, we validate stochastic models against stereo-photogrammetric measurements of surface wave fields. Then, we investigate the dependence of space-time extremes upon physical parameters (wind speed, fetch length, current speed) in the context of analytical spectral formulations, i.e. Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP, and by using spectral numerical wave modeling. To this end, we developed two sets of closed formulae and a modified version of the SWAN model to calculate parameters of analytical and arbitrary directional spectra, respectively. Finally, we present preliminary results of a 3 years Mediterranean Sea hindcast as a first step towards operational forecasts of space-time extremes.Copyright