Michelle H. Teng

Propagation of solitary waves through significantly curved shallow water channels

Propagation of solitary waves in curved shallow water channels of constant depth and width is investigated by carrying out numerical simulations based on the generalized weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq model. The objective is to investigate the effects of channel width and bending sharpness on the transmission and reflection of long waves propagating through significantly curved channels. Our numerical results show that, when travelling through narrow channel bends including both smooth and sharp-cornered 90°-bends, a solitary wave is transmitted almost completely with little reflection and scattering. For wide channel bends, we find that, if the bend is rounded and smooth, a solitary wave is still fully transmitted with little backward reflection, but the transmitted wave will no longer preserve the shape of the original solitary wave but will disintegrate into several smaller waves. For solitary waves travelling through wide sharp-cornered 90°-bends, wave reflection is seen to be very significant, and the wider the channel bend, the stronger the reflected wave amplitude. Our numerical results for waves in sharp-cornered 90°-bends revealed a similarity relationship which indicates that the ratios of the transmitted and reflected wave amplitude, excess mass and energy to the original wave amplitude, mass and energy all depend on one single dimensionless parameter, namely the ratio of the channel width b to the effective wavelength [lambda][sub]e. Quantitative results for predicting wave transmission and reflection based on b/[lambda][sub]e are presented.

Effects of channel cross-sectional geometry on long wave generation and propagation

Joint theoretical and experimental studies are carried out to investigate the effects of channel cross-sectional geometry on long wave generation and propagation in uniform shallow water channels. The existing channel Boussinesq and channel KdV equations are extended in the present study to include the effects of channel sidewall slope at the waterline in the first-order section-mean equations. Our theoretical results show that both the channel cross-sectional geometry below the unperturbed water surface (characterized by a shape factor kappa) and the channel sidewall slope at the waterline (represented by a slope factor gamma) affect the wavelength (lambda) and time period (Ts) of waves generated under resonant external forcing. A quantitative relationship between lambda, Ts, kappa, and gamma is given by our theory which predicts that, under the condition of equal mean water depth and equal mean wave amplitude, lambda and Ts increase with increasing kappa and gamma. To verify the theoretical results, experiments are conducted in two channels of different geometries, namely a rectangular channel with kappa[equivalent]1, gamma=0 and a trapezoidal channel with kappa=1.27, gamma=0.16, to measure the wavelength of free traveling solitary waves and the time period of wave generation by a towed vertical hydrofoil moving with critical speed. The experimental results are found to be in broad agreement with the theoretical predictions.

LINEAR AND NONLINEAR MODELING OF LONG WAVES PROPAGATING AROUND CHANNEL BENDS

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

Higher-Order Modeling of Water Waves Generated by Submerged Moving Disturbances

In this paper, a recently derived (Zhou, 2008) fully nonlinear and higher-order dispersive Boussinesq-type model for wave generation and propagation is presented. This new model is an extension of the wave propagation model by Gobbi and Kirby (1999) and Gobbi et al. (2000) to include the time-varying seabed bathymetry. The resulting new version retains the 4th-order approximation of the dispersion relation and the velocity distribution in the vertical direction, and extends the application to both water wave propagation and wave generation by seabed disturbances such as submarine landslides. The model equations are solved numerically through a higher-order finite difference scheme. To examine the validity of the new model and the improvement due to the higher-order extensions, numerical simulations of two wave generation cases are carried out based on the new 4th order model and an existing lower order Boussinesq model. The results show that the higher order model provides the more accurate prediction for the generated waves, especially those in the trailing region of shorter wavelengths where the traditional lower order Boussinesq model becomes much less accurate.Copyright