Mikkel Fruergaard

Major coastal impact induced by a 1000-year storm event

Extreme storms and storm surges may induce major changes along sandy barrier coastlines, potentially causing substantial environmental and economic damage. We show that the most destructive storm (the 1634 AD storm) documented for the northern Wadden Sea within the last thousand years both caused permanent barrier breaching and initiated accumulation of up to several metres of marine sand. An aggradational storm shoal and a prograding shoreface sand unit having thicknesses of up to 8 m and 5 m respectively were deposited as a result of the storm and during the subsequent 30 to 40 years long healing phase, on the eroded shoreface. Our results demonstrate that millennial-scale storms can induce large-scale and long-term changes on barrier coastlines and shorefaces, and that coastal changes assumed to take place over centuries or even millennia may occur in association with and be triggered by a single extreme storm event.

Tsunami propagation over a wide, shallow continental shelf caused by the Storegga slide, southeastern North Sea, Denmark

The large Storegga slide, which occurred on the Norwegian Atlantic shelf ∼8150 yr ago, triggered a tsunami that has been identified in sediment deposits along the coasts of Greenland, Norway, the Faroe Islands, the Shetland Islands, Scotland, and the northernmost coasts of England, but hitherto not along the southeastern shores of the North Sea. It has generally been assumed that the shallow continental shelf of the North Sea attenuated and dissipated the energy of the tsunami before it reached those coastlines. We used radiocarbon and optically stimulated luminescence dating as well as stratigraphic, lithologic, chemical, and palynological analyses of sediment cores to identify tsunami deposits on the barrier island of Romo located on the southwestern North Sea coast of Denmark. We show that tsunami sediments were deposited in a freshwater paleolake that is located ∼16 m below present-day mean sea level. The tsunami sediment run-up was between 1.5 m and 5.5 m above the contemporaneous sea level. Our results demonstrate that the Storegga slide tsunami propagated across the wide (>500 km) and relatively shallow (depth <95 m) continental shelf of the North Sea and resulted in run-up along adjacent coastlines. In contradiction to earlier theoretical studies, the coastline of the southeastern North Sea cannot be regarded as being sheltered from impacts of North Atlantic tsunami incidents.

Coastal landforms and the Holocene evolution of the Island of Samsø, Denmark

The geomorphology of a coastal landscape may reveal an indication of past shoreline configurations. The spatial arrangement of the preserved morphologies may further contain indications on the importance of the different key parameters influencing shoreline evolution over millennial timescales, such as palaeo sea-level position, longshore currents, energy gradients, and sediment supply. This paper presents the results and observations of a surveying and mapping study conducted for the island of Samsø at a scale of 1:75,000. The objective of the work is to support the interpretation of core sample data and to extract information on the factors determining the morpho-sedimentary development of moraine-embedded coastal lagoon systems during the Holocene. The map is based on an airborne LiDAR-derived high-resolution digital terrain model that is combined with spatial information on bathymetry, surface geology and other features from archived geodata and maps.

Chronology and late-Holocene evolution of Caleta de los Loros, NE Patagonia, Argentina:

Geomorphological and sedimentary records of Holocene coastal deposits may serve as archives for the local reconstruction of trends in coastal evolution and of the key forcing parameters controlling long-term change. We here present new observations on the sedimentology, chronology, and surface properties of a coupled beach ridge and coastal lagoon system located on the northern shore of San Matías Gulf, NE Patagonia, Argentina. The study is based on remotely sensed data, sediment cores, and a large number of samples dated using optically stimulated luminescence (OSL). The field site is located in a topographical depression within a cliffed shoreline composed of friable sand and gravel stones. The oldest preserved lagoonal deposits formed in the protected inner part of the system c. 2300 years ago. An up to 4-km-wide strandplain prograded rapidly between c. 1000 and 500 years in the more exposed western part of the system. Lagoonal deposition occurred primarily during the last 500 years. The chronology and spatial arrangement of landforms appear to result from a switch-over in sediment delivery probably caused by local implications of major shifts in climate regime. Even though we were not able to identify or benchmark the precise triggers of geomorphological change at Caleta de los Loros, our study presents an example of the potential importance of environmental changes on the rapid and non-linear development of coastal sedimentary systems.

On luminescence bleaching of tidal channel sediments

We investigate the processes responsible for bleaching of the quartz OSL signal from tidal channel sediment. Tidal dynamics are expected to play an important role for complete bleaching of tidal sediments. However, no studies have examined the amount of reworking occurring in tidal channels and on tidal flats due to the mixing caused by currents and waves. We apply bed level data to evaluate the amount of vertical sediment reworking in modern tidal channels and at a tidal flat. Cycles of deposition and erosion are measured with a bed level sensor, and the results show that gross sedimentation was several times higher than net sedimentation. We propose that tidal channel sediment is bleached either on the tidal flat before it is transported to the tidal channels and incorporated in channel-fill successions or, alternatively, on the shallow intertidal part of the channel banks. Based on the quantitative measures of sediment reworking, we suggest that repeated depositional and erosional cycles allow for complete bleaching of the tidal flat sediment, and we infer that quartz OSL dating can provide accurate ages for shallow tidal channel fill.

The Skallingen spit, Denmark: birth of a back-barrier saltmarsh

The formation and evolution of a modern saltmarsh platform on the barrier spit Skallingen in the northernmost part of the Wadden Sea was investigated through historical map records, 12 orthophotos covering the period from 1945 to 2012, sediment cores and cross-sectional creek profiles. The barrier spit, which constitutes the foundation of the saltmarsh platform, formed in about 50 years in the seventeenth century. After its formation the spit was left as a bare sandflat for about 200 years. Along with the development of foredunes, an increased availability of fine-grained sediment and establishment of vegetation in the beginning of the 1890s, the saltmarsh area formed in about 100 years, while the development of a large system of saltmarsh creeks took place in just ca. 50 years. The development of the drainage network, saltmarsh creek morphology and sedimentology during the saltmarsh formation are described in detail and analysed with special attention to the transformation rate from bare sandflat to a genuine vegetation-covered back-barrier saltmarsh.