Pascal Bruniaux

A new method of ease allowance generation for personalization of garment design

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.Design/methodology/approach – The current method first generates a number of fuzzy models each corresponding to one specific key body part and one specific wearers movement and then aggregates all the values of ease allowance generated from these fuzzy models using the ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operator. The aggregated ease allowance takes into account geometric measures on all representative human bodies, comfort sensations of wearers related to all movements or actions and different styles of trousers (tight, normal and loose). The weights of the OWA operator can be used to adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are automatically determined according to designers linguistic criteria characterizing the relationship between wearers movements and...

Optimisation of garment design using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation techniques

The ease allowance is an important criterion in garment design. It is often taken into account in the process of construction of garment patterns. However, the existing pattern generation methods cannot provide a suitable estimation of ease allowance, which is strongly related to wearers body shapes and movements and used fabrics. They can only produce 2D patterns for fixed standard values of ease allowance. In this paper, we present a new method for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation. Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearers movements, we obtain an aggregated ease allowance using the OWA operator. This aggregated result can further improve the wearers fitting perception of a garment and adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the fitting comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are determined according to designers linguistic criteria on comfort and garment style. The effectiveness of our method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can be also applied for designing other types of garment.

Virtual reality-based collaborative design method for designing customized garment for disabled people with scoliosis

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis. Design/methodology/approach The proposed method is based on the virtual human model created using a 3D body scanner, permitting to simulate the consumer’s morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Next, customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools will be used to create products through interactions between the consumer, designer and pattern maker. The general principle of the proposed design method is based on the following sequence: design-display-evaluation-adjustment. After running the sequence for a number of times, the final design solution, which will be approved by both the designer and consumer, can be easily identified. Findings Design knowledge, which is already applied to normal body shapes successfully can be applied to 3D garment design using the concept which is based on collaborative design. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D patterns and design rules, can be modified and applied according to a normalized virtual garment sensory evaluation procedure quantitatively. This evaluation procedure, interactively performed by the designer and consumer, can permit to adapt the finished product to disabled people afflicted with severe scoliosis. The proposed method is also validated to be more advanced compared to 2D-to-3D virtual CAD design method, especially for atypical morphologies. Originality/value As a co-design method, 3D virtual draping and sensory evaluation can fully satisfy the interaction between the garment design technical space and perceptual space of the finished garments ensuring desired 3D garment fit effect by adjustment of technical parameters. 3D scanning technology is used to generate a complete digitalized 3D human model, permitting to extract the main features of body shapes without accurate measurements. As a knowledge-based design process, both the fashion design knowledge and the pattern making knowledge will be extracted to provide inspirations and references. Successful design solutions will be incorporated into the fashion design knowledge base in order to generate new design rules and enhance professional design knowledge.

Modeling the mechanics of a medical compression stocking through its components behavior: Part 1 – modeling at the yarn scale

The goal of this article is to propose practical and scientific explanations about the mechanics of compression by the medical compression stocking (MCS) to the phlebologist and angiologist societies. The first part presents the principle of pressure generated by the MCS. We explain how the surface of MCS fabric is structured from the yarn scale and how each component of the yarn contributes to generate the desired compression. The second part is dedicated to the mechanical behavior modeling of the covered yarn, which is the main yarn component of the elastic knitted fabric of the MCS. The structure analysis shows that the properties of the inlaid yarns reflect significantly the global behavior of the fabric. Therefore, by characterizing the elastic properties of the inlaid yarn, it is possible to predict the mechanical behavior of the entire MCS fabric. We suggest a few approaches to model the covered elastic yarns used in different types of products. The third part describes an identification procedure aiming to calculate the unknown parameters of the mathematical models with the yarn elongation curves. The principle is to divide the general model into several sub-models in order to avoid considering simultaneously a great number of parameters in the identification procedure. The last part presents a set of identification results that compare measured values with simulated data. With a reliable model of the elastic yarns, an efficient strategy can be conducted to define the proper inlaid yarn (for the MCS construction), aiming to treat efficiently vein diseases at different stages according to medical prescription and the patient’s need.

Interactive virtual try-on based three-dimensional garment block design for disabled people of scoliosis type:

This paper introduces a co-design-based method for generating two-dimensional (2D) block patterns for physically disabled people with scoliosis, using three-dimensional (3D) virtual technology. A parameterization process is first performed on a scanned 3D body for creating a digitalized model of the human body, permitting simulation of the consumers morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Feature points of the human body for designing a garment block are discussed and classified with wearing ease for obtaining a desired fit effect based on the parameterized model. A basic garment block wire-frame aligned with body features is then established based on the defined feature points of the human body. Based on the deformed wireframe, a 3D expandable garment block is modeled. Customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools are applied to create customized garment products based on the general concept of co-design by running the sequence Design–Display–Evaluation–Adjustment using the garment design process and design knowledge, which have already been applied to normal body shapes successfully. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D pattern design rules, will be modified according to the virtual garment evaluation procedure. The proposed method is validated and compared with the conventional block patternmaking methods in the virtual environment. The experimental results show that the proposed method is easier to implement and can generate garment patterns with satisfactory fit. Furthermore, the method can be used to create fit-ensured mass-customized apparel products (the top body type) for disabled people with scoliosis.

Sensory evaluation based fuzzy AHP approach for material selection in customized garment design and development process

Material selection is the most difficult section in the customized garment product design and development process. This study aims to create a hierarchical framework for material selection. The analytic hierarchy process and fuzzy sets theories have been applied to mindshare the diverse requirements from the customer and inherent interaction/interdependencies among these requirements. Sensory evaluation ensures a quick and effective selection without complex laboratory test such as KES and FAST, using the professional knowledge of the designers. A real empirical application for the physically disabled people is carried out to demonstrate the proposed method. Both the theoretical and practical background of this paper have indicated the fuzzy analytical network process can capture experts knowledge existing in the form of incomplete, ambiguous and vague information for the mutual influence on attribute and criteria of the material selection.

Modeling And Parametric Study Of A Fabric Drape

The objective of this study is to develop a fabric drape mathematical model in order to simulate the dynamic behavior of a textile structure. Simulation of fabric drape is a significant issue in textile research, which contributes to advances within the framework of virtual models and clothing simulation. In the first part of this paper, the existing methods dealing with the fabric simulation are presented. In the following part, a mathematical model that has been selected for simulation is given. The third part is devoted to the identification of unknown parameters. Each parameter corresponds to a predefined test. In order to obtain reliable results, very specific samples were realized, testing the fabric weave method and the influence of the yarn nature. This choice is guided by industrial needs. Moreover, the proposed method enables a sensitivity analysis of the model parameters. Finally, in the fourth part, several simulation results are presented and they are compared with practical results by analyzing textile structural deformation according to parameter variation.

Constrained dynamic yarn modeling

This paper addresses the problem of yarn modeling for fabric simulation using differ ential algebraic equations in order to account for nonlinear phenomena. To this end, we propose a theorical yam model for motion control and study the system from a symbolic and numerical point of view. From a Lagrangian approach, we describe the yarns behavior and develop a solution. Thus, it is possible to simulate the yam under different situations and constraints and to identify some characteristic parameters.

Modelling of Virtual Garment Design in 3D

This paper presents an introduction to the modelling of virtual garment design process in 3D… Our global project of virtual clothing design, along with the conception of a virtual adaptive mannequin, is devoted to creating and modelling garments in 3D. Starting from ideas of mass customization, e-commerce and the need of numerical innovations in the garment industry, this article presents a model of virtual garment and methodology enabling virtual clothing to be conceived directly on an adaptive mannequin morphotype in 3D. A short description of the overall garment model under constraints is presented. To explain the overall methodology, the basic pattern of trousers is given. The global model of garment creation in 3D is composed of three parts - a human body model, an ease model and a garment model. The most essential part is the ease model, which is necessary for the proposed process of garment modelling. After describing each garment modelling element influencing this process, a detailed presentation of the ease model in relation to the garment model is proposed. The combination of the previously mentioned models may be considered as 2 interconnected sub-models. The first sub-model is linked with the front pattern position on the body and the second with the back pattern position on the trousers with appropriate ease values. In order to execute the identification procedure of the correct ease values and consequently their right positions on the human body, an algorithm of identification is proposed. The two sub-models are strongly connected as in the feedback effect caused by the interactions of the trouser front and back patterns. The aforementioned connection phenomenon appears during modelling and it depends on the structure of the proposed ease model. The relatively significant number of parameters requires the use of the identification technique. Finally, the superposition of virtual and real patterns was done in order to visualise the results.

Estimation of Ease Allowance of a Garment using Fuzzy Logic

The ease allowance is an important criterion in garment sales. It is often taken into account in the process of construction of garment patterns. However, the existing pattern generation methods can not provide a suitable estimation of ease allowance, which is strongly related to wearer’s body shapes and movements and used fabrics. They can only produce 2D patterns for a fixed standard value of ease allowance. In this chapter, we propose a new method of estimating ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation. Based on these values of ease allowance, we develop a new method of automatic pattern generation, permitting to improve the wearer’s fitting perception of a garment. The effectiveness of our method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can also be applied for designing other types of garment.