Patricia Cox Crews

THE INFLUENCE OF MORDANT ON THE LIGHTFASTNESS OF YELLOW NATURAL DYES

AbstractWool specimens were premordanted with alum, chrome, copper, iron, or tin mordants and dyed with 18 yellow natural dyes. The dyed specimens were then exposed to a xenon-arc lamp for 5, 10, 20, 40, and 80 AATCC Fading Units. The color changes were evaluated instrumentally with a color difference meter and visually by trained observers. Color differences in CIE L*a*b* units, gray scale classifications, and lightfastness ratings were reported.Turmeric, fustic, and marigold dyes faded significantly more than any of the other yellow dyes. However, dyes applied with tin and alum mordants faded significantly more than dyes mordanted with chrome, copper, or iron. In fact, mordant affected lightfastness more than dye or length of exposure. This showed that mordant was more important than dye in predicting lightfastness of colored textiles. Consequently, to make the best decisions regarding display of a textile, museum personnel should have both mordant and dye identified.

Characteristics of fading of wool cloth dyed with selected natural dyestuffs on the basis of solar radiant energy

Photodegradation characteristics of selected natural dyestuffs were investigated on the basis of solar radiant energy. UVA and UVB fluorescent lamps were also applied to examine wavelength dependencies on the fading characteristics. The natural dyestuffs were observed to have poorer lightfastness in the comparison with AATCC Blue Wool L2. The order of fading susceptibility to solar radiation is as follows: Turmeric > Weld > Madder > L2. Moreover, It was concluded that the natural dyestuffs were strongly sensitive to visible light as well as to UV rays and L2 would be faded by visible light to the small extent. These results provide an important key to understanding the poor lightfasteness of some natural dyestuffs.

Evaluation of Milkweed Floss as an Insulative Fill Material

Milkweed, a perennial plant that can adapt to adverse soil conditions, is being developed as an alternative crop. Fiber characterization and potential market iden tification are critical to its development. The most promising commercial use for milkweed floss is as a loose fill for jackets and comforters. The purpose of this research was to evaluate milkweed floss as an insulative fill material and to compare its per formance to other insulators. Seven identical jackets were constructed using different fill materials matched on a per unit weight basis. The insulation (clo) values for the jackets were measured using a standing, heated manikin in an environmental chamber. Thickness (loft), compression, resiliency, and hand were also measured. Several per formance characteristics were evaluated before and after cleaning. The results show that milkweed floss blended with down has insulative properties similar to down. Down is superior to milkweed floss in loftiness and compressibility, which influence product performance, but the properties of milkweed floss can be enhanced by blending with down.

Improving Knit Fabric UPF Using Consumer Laundry Products: A Comparison of Results Using Two Instruments

This study investigated the use of two instruments to measure the ultraviolet protective factor (UPF) of T-shirt knit fabrics. After various laundering treatments, specimens were cut and UPF was measured from the wale, course, and bias directions with the ISO MET® UV-Meter and the Cary UV-Visible Spectrophotometer. Similar results were found between the two instruments and among repeated measures. Before UPF measurement, the shirt fabrics were repeatedly laundered using various household detergents and laundering additives commonly available to consumers. Statistically significant effects on the mean UPF values were found related to type of fabric, type of detergent/laundry additives, number of repeated launderings, and interaction effects of combinations of the three factors. Consumers can improve the UPF of their cotton and cotton-blend clothing by using detergents with brightener and/or products containing ultraviolet absorbers. Conclusions and implications for educators and apparel and textiles industry are provided.

An Evaluation of Antioxidants for the Conservation of Museum Textiles

Selected antioxidants were evaluated for their ability to reduce yellowing, fading, and strength loss of textiles when applied by an immersion technique similar to cleaning procedures used by museum conservators. Undyed silk, wool, linen and cotton specimens, along with wool specimens dyed with three natural dyes, were treated with seven antioxidants representing three chemical classes—phenols, phosphites and propionates. The treated fabric specimens were exposed to 80 AFUs of xenon light, followed by instrumental color evaluations using a Hunterlab D25-M tristimulus colorimeter and breaking strengt. measurements using a CRE-500 Scott tensile strength tester. Results showed that two phosphite antioxidants significantly reduced yellowing of all four undyed natural fibers, but none of the antioxidants reduced fading of wool dyed with natural dyes. Some antioxidants slightly suppressed fiber degradation of undyed silk, wool, and linen. In general, antioxidant treatments did not reduce strength losses in naturally dyed wool. Based on these results antioxidants examined in the study cannot be recommended for use on colored museum textiles. However, two phosphite antioxidants showed promise for use on undyed museum textiles such as table linens, quilts and christening gowns.

Influence of Milkweed Fiber Length on Textile Product Performance

Farmers and scientists joined forces in the late 1980s to develop milkweed as an alternative crop and source offiber. Efforts continue to develop milkweed floss fiber as an insulative fill material. A major barrier to increased utilization is its tendency to form mats during laundering or drycleaning. This research sought to evaluate the effect of fiber length on matting that occurs during cleaning. Milkweed floss in three lengths (full, half, and quarter), milkweed floss in three lengths blended 50l50 with down, plus 100% down, were used as loose fill in comforter samples. Trained judges rated hand (smoothnesslrQUghness) before and after laundering. Results showed that reducing fiber length produced significantly softer and smoother fill materials prior to and following laundering. Although shortened fibers did not entirely eliminate the matting problem associated with laundering, they did form smaller and less noticeable mats. Nevertheless, blending milkweed fibers with down remains the best way to improve smoothness ratings; reducing fiber length did not reduce matting as much as the blending of down with milkweed fibers. Consequently, milkweed floss used as a loose fill material should always be blended with down and producers should continue to subject milkweed floss to vigorous processing since no product advantage is gained by maintaining maximum fiber length.

Evaluating UV Absorbers and Antioxidants for Topical Treatment of Upholstery Fabrics

UV absorbers and antioxidants topically applied to upholstery fabrics to reduce fading, separately and in conjunction with soil repellent finish formulations containing UV absorbers, were evaluated in this study. Over fifty upholstery fabrics were initially evaluated and fourteen were selected for further study. The fabrics were then topically treated with commercially available soil repellent finishes (a fluorocarbon and a silicone finish) containing UV absorbers or immersion-treated with one of thirteen UV ab sorbers or antioxidants. Following light exposure, color changes were evaluated visually and instrumentally. The results showed that neither the fluorocarbon nor silicone- based soil repellent finishes containing UV absorbers significantly reduced fading in the upholstery fabrics. Furthermore none of the UV absorbers and antioxidants applied to the upholstery fabrics improved lightfastness properties substantially, so they cannot be recommended as additives to soil repellent finish formulations.

A Comparison of Selected UV Filtering Materials for the Reduction of Fading

AbstractThe effectiveness of a UV filtering material of flexible polyester film containing a silver reflective coating was compared to the widely used UV absorbing filters that are almost colorless or have a strong yellow tint. The silver-coated polyester filters caused almost no distortion of color rendition when used as a filter for fluorescent lamps and provided greater protection of artifacts than did the almost colorless mters. The use of UV filters of polyester film with a reflective silver coating is recommended when filters with a strong yellow tint distort color to an objectionable degree and yet greater protection of artifacts is desired than that afforded by almost colorless filters.

Continuity and Change in Nebraska Quiltmakers, 1870-1989

Using information garnered from questionnaires completed during Nebraska Quilt Project (NQP), we developed a profile of Nebraska quiltmakers in four time periods (1870-1919, 1920-1945, 1946-1969, and 1970-1989) and examined how quiltmaking practices and motivations changed over time. Quiltmaking in Nebraska continues to be predominately an activity of rural women; however, it has become increasingly popular among urban women since the 1970s. The majority of Nebraska quiltmakers of all periods were rural homemakers of German descent, affiliated with either a Methodist or Lutheran church. Proportionately fewer Catholic women quilted than did members of other denominations. And, proportionately more women of English and Scottish ancestry were quiltmakers than would be expected based on percentages of those ancestry groups among Nebraskans as a whole. Of those quiltmakers who were gainfully employed, most worked in fields traditionally chosen by women. These findings are consistent with the conservative nature of the population of an agriculturally-based economy as found in Nebraska. Quiltmaking in Nebraska is a feminine skill usually transmitted by female relatives from generation to generation. There has been, however, a definite trend since the 1970s for quiltmakers to learn quiltmaking skills through formal quiltmaking classes. Most Nebraska quiltmakers began quilting as young adults. A smaller, but significant number of quiltmakers of the 1970s and 1980s began quilting in mid-life, a time when few quiltmakers of the earliest period began to make quilts.Using information garnered from questionnaires completed during Nebraska Quilt Project (NQP), we developed a profile of Nebraska quiltmakers in four time periods (1870-1919, 1920-1945, 1946-1969, and 1970-1989) and examined how quiltmaking practices and motivations changed over time. Quiltmaking in Nebraska continues to be predominately an activity of rural women; however, it has become increasingly popular among urban women since the 1970s. The majority of Nebraska quiltmakers of all periods were rural homemakers of German descent, affiliated with either a Methodist or Lutheran church. Proportionately fewer Catholic women quilted than did members of other denominations. And, proportionately more women of English and Scottish ancestry were quiltmakers than would be expected based on percentages of those ancestry groups among Nebraskans as a whole. Of those quiltmakers who were gainfully employed, most worked in fields traditionally chosen by women. These findings are consistent with the conservative natur...

Effectiveness of Dye Setting Treatments on Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Direct, Reactive, and Vat Dyes

Eight treatments were evaluated for their effectiveness in the setting of dyes in new cotton fabrics. Dyes representing three application classes (direct, reactive, and vat) widely used on cotton fabrics were selected. Because of the perceived problems of red dyes bleeding during laundering, five of the eight dyes selected for evaluation were red. Color and staining evaluations were made after treatment and after laundering of the treated specimens to determine the effects of the treatments on color change and bleeding. The dye setting treatments did not cause large amounts of color change in the treated fabrics; however, none of the dye setting treatments significantly reduced color loss or staining during laundering for any of the dyes. Some of the treatments actually increased rather than decreased color loss and staining. Clearly, the home treatments for setting dyes evaluated in this study are a waste of the consumers time, energy, and money.