Philip W. Wertz

Essential fatty acids and acne

Acne is characterized by hyperkeratosis of the follicular epithelium, leading to horny impactions that may lie dormant as open or closed comedones or may cause inflammation of the follicle. Although persons with acne have consistently been observed to have elevated levels of sebum secretion, no mechanism relating sebum secretion rates to comedogenesis is known. Acne patients have also been shown to have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin surface lipids. To explain this observation, the hypothesis is advanced that the linoleate concentration in human sebum depends on the quantity of linoleic acid present in each sebaceous cell at the commencement of its differentiation and on the extent to which this initial charge is diluted by subsequent endogenous lipid synthesis in each sebaceous cell. A corollary hypothesis holds that low concentrations of linoleate in sebum impose a state of essential fatty acid deficiency on the cells of the follicular epithelium and induce the characteristic response of hyperkeratosis. Both hypotheses could hold, without there being a systemic deficiency of linoleic acid, simply as the result of elevated lipogenesis in individual sebaceous cells.

Thematic Review Series: Skin Lipids. Antimicrobial lipids at the skin surface

The skin surface represents our interface with the external environment, and as such, is our first line of defense against microbial colonization and infection. Lipids at the skin surface are thought to underlie at least part of an antimicrobial barrier. Some of these lipids are synthesized in the epidermis and are carried to the surface as cells differentiate, whereas others are secreted onto the surface from the sebaceous glands. One such group, free sphingoid bases, are known to have broad antimicrobial activity, and our previous studies demonstrate their presence at the skin surface. Free sphingoid bases may be generated by enzymatic hydrolysis of epidermal ceramides. In addition, our preliminary results demonstrate potent antibacterial activity associated with two specific fatty acids derived from sebaceous triglycerides. Most remarkably, one of these fatty acids (sapienic acid, C16:1Δ6), in combination with a low concentration of ethanol, is very effective against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). In fact, this combination was far more effective than mupirocin with or without ethanol. Mupirocin is a “gold standard” for activity against MRSA.

Loss of proteolytically processed filaggrin caused by epidermal deletion of Matriptase/MT-SP1

Profilaggrin is a large epidermal polyprotein that is proteolytically processed during keratinocyte differentiation to release multiple filaggrin monomer units as well as a calcium-binding regulatory NH2-terminal filaggrin S-100 protein. We show that epidermal deficiency of the transmembrane serine protease Matriptase/MT-SP1 perturbs lipid matrix formation, cornified envelope morphogenesis, and stratum corneum desquamation. Surprisingly, proteomic analysis of Matriptase/MT-SP1–deficient epidermis revealed the selective loss of both proteolytically processed filaggrin monomer units and the NH2-terminal filaggrin S-100 regulatory protein. This was associated with a profound accumulation of profilaggrin and aberrant profilaggrin-processing products in the stratum corneum. The data identify keratinocyte Matriptase/MT-SP1 as an essential component of the profilaggrin-processing pathway and a key regulator of terminal epidermal differentiation.

Covalently bound ω-hydroxyacylsphingosine in the stratum corneum

Pig epidermis was heat separated, and the stratum corneum was isolated after trypsinization. Exhaustive extraction of the stratum corneum fraction with chloroform/methanol mixtures yielded 14.7% lipid on a dry weight basis. After mild saponification of the extracted residue, additional lipid could be extracted which accounted for 2.1% of the stratum corneum weight. This bound lipid proved to consist mainly (91.9%) of N-(ω-hydroxyacyl)sphingosines in which the amide-linked ω-hydroxyacids were 28 to 34 carbon atoms in length. The release of this lipid by mild alkaline hydrolysis indicates that it is bound through an ester linkage. Half of the hydroxyceramide molecules reacted in situ with acidic acetone, suggesting that half of these molecules are attached to the stratum corneum through the ω-hydroxyl function, while the other half may be linked through one of the hydroxyl groups of the sphingosine.

Human stratum corneum polar lipids and desquamation.

SummaryThe ceramides and steryl-sulfate components from desquamated and cohesive human stratum corneum were examined using a combination of chemical and chromatographic means. Six structurally distinct series of ceramides were identified, and the relative amounts of these species, as measured by quantitative thin-layer chromatography, did not differ in cohesive and desquamated stratum corneum. In contrast, the level of cholesteryl sulfate was significantly reduced in the desquamated material. The results are in accord with the hypothesis that cholesteryl sulfate serves in cell-to-cell cohesion within the stratum corneum, and its hydrolysis may be necessary to permit shedding of cells from the surface.

Regional variation in content, composition and organization of porcine epithelial barrier lipids revealed by thin-layer chromatography and transmission electron microscopy

Epidermis and oral epithelia provide permeability barriers that limit penetration of potentially harmful agents. Barrier function is determined by lipids in the superficial epithelial layers and varies regionally by more than 10-fold. The purpose of this study was to determine whether differences in lipid content, composition or organization could account for this variation in barrier function. Stratum corneum from skin, gingiva and palate and superficial layers from buccal regions and the floor of the mouth were isolated, and lipids were extracted and analysed by thin-layer chromatography. Tissue from each region was examined by electron microscopy. There was an inverse correlation between permeability and ceramide content and a direct correlation with triglyceride content. Electron microscopy revealed that the intercellular space in epidermal stratum corneum contained multiple lipid lamellae displaying an alternating broad-narrow-broad spacing. In palatal and gingival stratum corneum, uniformly spaced lamellae were present at the periphery of dilations of the intercellular space, but the interiors of the dilations contained disorganized lamellae and electron-dense material. In the non-keratinized barriers, there was a single, broad lamella at the cell periphery and occasional short stacks of lamellae traversing the intercellular space. These intercellular lamellae may be derived from a population of membrane-coating granules that contain internal lamellae. The results suggest that ceramides may be important barrier components, even in non-keratinizing epithelia where they are very minor components. Regional differences in the physical organization of barrier lipids may also contribute to differences in barrier function.

Elasticity of vesicles assessed by electron spin resonance, electron microscopy and extrusion measurements

The composition of vesicles determines the physical state and elasticity of their bilayers. Fatty acid spin labels were incorporated into vesicles, composed of the single chain non-ionic surfactant octaoxyethylenelaurate-ester (PEG-8-L), the sucrose laurate-ester L-595 and cholesterol sulfate (CS) to monitor local dynamic properties of lipid molecules in vesicle bilayers and to study the elasticity of vesicle bilayers. Studies with the spin label probes 5-, 12- and 16-doxyl stearic acid (DSA) indicated that both the order parameter and the rotational correlation times increased when the doxyl group was positioned closer to the headgroup region. These findings indicate that the fluidity of membranes decreased near the headgroup region. Comparing 16-DSA incorporated in vesicle formulations with either 30 or 70 mol% showed no difference in alkyl chain mobility as was reflected by the order parameter. The rotational correlation times, however, showed a slowdown from 0.38 to 0.71 and 1.13 ns when the PEG-8-L molar content was decreased from 100 to 70 and 30 mol% for PEG-8-L:L-595:CS vesicles, respectively. Extrusion measurements indicated an increase in elasticity of vesicle bilayers as the molar content of PEG-8-L was increased from 10 to 90 mol%. Incorporation of cholesterol sulfate stabilizes vesicles and thereby, decreases the elasticity. The increased elasticity correlated excellent with a reduction in the rotational correlation times observed. In conclusion, these results demonstrate that when the molar content of the single chain non-ionic surfactant PEG-8-L in vesicles is increased the elasticity is enhanced and the rotational correlation time is reduced. The enhanced elasticity might contribute to an optimal design of vesicles as drug carriers for transdermal application.

Effect of essential fatty acid deficiency on the epidermal sphingolipids of the rat

The epidermal sphingolipids from rats maintained on either a rat stock diet or a fat-free diet have been analyzed. Thin-layer chromatographic analyses have revealed glucosylceramides, acylglucosylceramides and four fractions of ceramides, one of which proved to be an acylceramide. The relative amounts of the glucosylceramides, acylglucosylceramides and acylceramides were increased in the essential fatty acid-deficient epidermis while one ceramide fraction was diminished. The other two ceramide fractions remained unchanged. The acylceramides and acylglucosylceramides from normal rat epidermis both contained long-chain omega-hydroxy acids in amide linkage to sphingosine bases and high proportions of linoleic acid in ester linkage. The linoleate, which is known to be crucial for the formation and maintenance of the epidermal water barrier, was replaced by oleate in the essential fatty acid-deficient rats.

Elasticity of vesicles affects hairless mouse skin structure and permeability

One of the possibilities for increasing the penetration rate of drugs through the skin is the use of vesicular systems. Currently, special attention is paid to the elastic properties of liquid-state vesicles, which are supposed to have superior properties compared to gel-state vesicles with respect to skin interactions. In this study, the effects of vesicles on hairless mouse skin, both in vivo and in vitro, were studied in relation to the composition of vesicles. The interactions of elastic vesicles containing the single chain surfactant octaoxyethylene laurate-ester (PEG-8-L) and sucrose laurate-ester (L-595) with hairless mouse skin were studied, in vivo, after non-occlusive application for 1, 3 and 6 h. The skin ultrastructure was examined by ruthenium tetroxide electron microscopy (TEM) and histology. The extent, to which vesicle constituents penetrated into the stratum corneum, was quantified by thin layer chromatography (TLC). The interactions of the elastic vesicles containing PEG-8-L and L-595 surfactants were compared with those observed after treatment with rigid vesicles containing the surfactant sucrose stearate-ester (Wasag-7). Furthermore, skin permeability experiments were carried out to investigate the effect of treatment with PEG-8-L micelles, elastic vesicles (containing PEG-8-L and L-595 surfactants) or rigid Wasag-7 vesicles on the 3H(2)O transport through hairless mouse skin, in vitro, after non-occlusive application. Treatment of hairless mouse skin with the elastic vesicles affected the ultrastructure of the stratum corneum: distinct regions with lamellar stacks derived from the vesicles were observed in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These stacks disrupted the organization of skin bilayers leading to an increased skin permeability, whereas no changes in the ultrastructure of the underlying viable epidermis were observed. Treatment with rigid Wasag-7 vesicles did not affect the skin ultrastructure or skin permeability. TLC measurements showed that after 1 h of non-occlusive application of elastic or rigid vesicles, a six-fold increased amount of elastic vesicle material was present within the stratum corneum compared to rigid vesicle material. After 3 and 6 h of application the amount of PEG-8-L vesicle material in SC decreased to approximately three- and two-fold, respectively, compared to Wasag-7 vesicle material. Pretreatment of the hairless mouse skin with the elastic vesicles containing 70 mol% PEG-8-L increased the diffusion of 3H(2)O with an optimum application dose of 2.5 mg lipids/cm(2) compared to PBS pretreatment. No significant difference in the enhancement of the 3H(2)O-diffusion was observed between PEG-8-L micelles or elastic vesicles containing 30 or 70 mol% PEG-8-L. Pretreatment with the rigid Wasag-7 vesicles decreased the diffusion rate of 3H(2)O, most probably by the formation of a lipid layer on the skin surface. The effect of the elastic vesicles on the skin permeability is supported by the ultrastructural changes observed by TEM in the intercellular lipid domains. The elastic vesicles containing 70 mol% PEG-8-L disorganize the lipid bilayers thereby creating or modifying pathways for possible drug penetration.

Integral lipids of human hair

It has long been recognized that hair is coated with nonpolar lipids originating in the sebaceous glands, and recently it has been shown that hair also contains cholesterol sulfate and small amounts of ceramides, similar to those found in the keratinized portion of the epidermis. In the present study, it is demonstrated that significant amounts of several additional lipids are tightly associated with hair in such a way as to be highly resistant to solvent extraction.These integral hair lipids included cholesterol sulfate (3.3 mg/g of extracted hair), cholesterol (0.6 mg/g), fatty alcohols (0.2 mg/g) and free fatty acids (4.3 mg/g). The principal fatty acid, comprising 40% of the total fatty acids, was identified as 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid by cochromatography with authentic standard on gas-liquid chromatography (GLC) and by mass spectrometry (MS).